Projects 29 Model A Couprielet, A Phantom Sleeper

They are sitting loosely in there at the moment due to the fact that they have no holes to slot into the studs in the wheel wells. Being fibregl*** they plug the holes of the originals when they make the moulds.

 

That will mean I will need to get a set of original steel ones if I want to accurately complete the buck. Even so, there is enough there that I can hang the quarter panels of the fenders and have both sides line up evenly.

 

I was also careful enough to make the structure rigid enough to avoid flexing but light enough to carry. I used right angle brackets on both sides of the uppers, drilled phillips head screws in on the inside bottom where the tabs attach to the main frame as well as adding a smaller right angle bracket that sits just above the screws.

 

All in all, it came up quite well so I started on stage 2. I wanted to extend the structure out to where the B pillars start. In order to do that I needed to replicate the section of frame that runs from the start of the wheel well to the B Pillar. I used one of my plastic model kits to do this. Its a 1:16 scale replica of a 1930 Model A Pickup.

I measured from the rear cross member to the start of the rear fender. I then timed this measurement by 16 to come up with a figure of 480mm.

 

Ask someone to measure the distance from quarter panel to mudguard lower at the front and drill the holes accordingly....

 

With this information I marked out where the section would start on the 1:1 frame. I should add this is not the same frame as the one on the tourer. This is a spare I got last year. I will eventually piece a roadster or coupe body on it and sell it off. For the meantime though its perfect for this project.

 

I

I am not too concerned, I need original rear guards anyway when I piece this spare one together into a roller to sell off. I can get the measurements then.

 

With the measurements chalked out, I began the process of creating the second part by using the remains of the left over timber. Once the four section were cut. I got four heavy duty right angle bracket and bent the correct taper by clamping them on top of the frame and hammering to the desired angle.

 

I clamped down the four pieces to the frame and adjusted each section accordingly until it sat in line with the taper of the outside frame rails, re-clamped it and finally fastened it permanently.

 

This is how the finished section looks sitting loosely over the top the fender jig.

 

With these two sections completed, I have decided to turn my attention back to the sub rails. I was going to build a jig for them as well but decided it was a waste of time and money. The spare frame is the perfect jig and I can clamp the remains of the sub rails over that.

Since no one manufactures them locally I will have to fabricate all the missing sections including the cross rails my self. I don't have the time or money to look for good original ones or reproduction ones. What I do have is the equipment and materials to do my own, so that will be my next task

 

Like the jig, and the fact that you are looking outside the box, gonna be a fun ride...
feel bad that we have it so easy registering a rod...
Had 9 strips of 5" x 44" 19 ga. sheared off at the metal shop,
Sunday a buddy with a brake and I will bend the offset flanges to make crossrails...
for rear subrails I will leave a 1" lip on the outside of the 3/4" verticals so I can weld it to the wheel wells...
this lip can be cut, heated and bent out to meet the quarter's lower skin... pix tomorrow...HIH...
.

 

Hey Guys.

This is the first update in over a week and while progress is slow, I have managed to get a few things done.

 

One thing that has been hampering me from day one has been a total lack of space in the shed. While I prefer working outdoors, the 3 in 1 is located at the back wall so i have no choice but to be in the shed to use it.

 

The biggest obstacle to getting to it has been the two ch***is on the left side, one is a 34 Chev and the other a Model A. I managed to make a bit more space when i removed the front end from the 34 Chev, but the problem of the model A frame still remained. A bit of creative soul searching and i came up with a solution.

 

A couple of rigid caster wheels attached to a piece of 4 X 2 that slots in behind the front cross member was all it took.

 

The result is a frame that rolls in and out from under the Model A.

 

With that problem solved, I was able to pull out the frame and attach the sub rails over the top. While I said I was going to use the frame as a jig to repair the sub rails On closer inspection I realized there was not much left to repair as most of it is too far gone.

 

I won't be throwing it out however, as there is still enough information present to use as a pattern, including the tail end that the beaver panel is still attached to which can be seen on the far left.

 

The first thing to reproduce will be the cross rails. With access to the 3 in 1, I was finally able to try it out. In case you are wondering, its called a 3 in 1 because it can roll, bend and cut sheet metal. I am more concerned with the cutting and bending parts at the moment, but eventually I expect to fabricate the hood and floor pans with this machine along with the electric bead roller.

 

One of the first things i did was make some guides to slot in behind the unit. The guides will act as a backstop for when I am folding pieces. They will allow exactly even folds each time and each guide will have different thicknesses to replicate the differences in where the folds are located on the cross rails.

 

I was able to knock up a cross sectional sample from one of the off cuts. Its pretty rough but once I have fine tuned the guides, I will be able to do a much more accurate one and after that move onto to the real thing.

 

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/body***embly.htm
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/bodymeasurements.htm
http://www.wescottsauto.com/SubIndexes/Techindex.html

 

Hey Guys.

Its been a long time between posts, but I am finally working on the sub rails. Earlier in the week I found time to make up an internal buck of sorts using expanding foam. The first thing I did was line the inside of the rails with sump oil as a form of mold release.

 

Once that was done, I sprayed the foam in and left it several days.

 

I finally took it out of the rail today.

 

Once that was done, I shaved off the excess to get a better idea of what I was looking at and then started working on the buck.

 

The buck will utilize an old piece of hardwood timber. This was cut in the center to follow the contour of the sub rail and rejoined using left over bits of plywood that were screwed down. I have been using a belt sander to soften the edges. The idea will be to turn the timber onto a forming buck. To protect the edges of the buck from the hammer forming process, right angle joiners will be screwed in along the entire length top and and bottom.

 

As its a forming buck, a combination of clamps and bolts will hold the the piece in place between the lower buck and the upper section. This section will be very important as its purpose will be to stop the metal from rising once the hammer forming starts.

 

Like the forming buck, the upper buck will be protected by joiners. The main difference between this buck and and the lower one is the beveled edge angled at 45 degrees. The purpose of this angled edge is to allow the hammer to get closer to the edge and make the forming process cleaner.