Next step on my RPU is organizing what parts we do have, so we order only what we need to get it running. Set up a small table and started pulling bits and pieces out of the shed storage and laying things out; The plan is to get the car running and driving with a single four barrel, then later install the dual quads. I put the word out to my buddies that a small four barrel was needed, Scott had a 500 cfm 1404 Edelbrock his nephew had removed from a flathead, my other friend Vince gave me an old AVS from a 68 383. Interestingly, they had the exact same throttle bore sizes. The Edelbrock looks really good, the nephew is not a mechanic and when he had tuning problems instead of cleaning or checking the carb just replaced it, so I'm thinking a good cleaning is all it might need; While I'm cleaning it I'll check the metering rods n jets etc, to see if it is anywhere close to what we want here at 3.500 feet.
This project is being built on the cheap, very very cheap. But every now and then you gotta step up just a little. Just bought a pair of 35-36 rear trailing arms from a Hamb'er, this after a ton of thought and study on how the rear suspension should be set up. With these trailing arms and rear mounted spring (still to be purchased), the frame will be lengthened 7.5" (if I've studied correctly). At least now I have a plan for that. Have been working towards the assembly of the engine and trans and eventual 1st start up. That means lots of cleaning, both cosmetic as well as mechanical. Here is the free 1404 Edelbrock carb (500 cfm) I was gifted from my buddy Scott, it was on his nephews Model A RPU on a warmed up flathead. The nephew is not a mechanic and was having trouble with getting it to run, so he just bought a new carb. Lucky for me, it was just super dirty inside; A long bath in the ultrasonic is next. A rebuild kit as well as a tuning kit are on order. Trans and intake manifold getting some attention as well; And the beat goes on...
Yesterday I was planning to install the road tube internal baffle (in the intake valley) in prep for installing the intake manifold. The baffle had been hot tanked (or so I thought) with the engine parts at the machine shop, but despite looking clean from the outside, still was caked with sludge internally. I scraped out everything I could reach and then let it soak overnight in a pot of diesel. I also started cleaning carb parts in the ultrasonic. Decided to pull the trans pan on the TH350 and service it before continuing the external cleaning; The good, the bad and the ugly; it's good there was no metal of any kind in the pan and the oil does not smell burnt, the bad is it was super dirty, the ugly was a piece of plastic, the size of a very small rock, laying in the pan. I will do my best to try and see where the plastic may have come from, hopefully nothing too serious. This trans came to me thru some horse trading a few years ago and was claimed to have been working "fine" when pulled. Will clean it up inside and out, new filter and gasket and re-seal, throw it in and try it. If it needs rebuilt, it's easy enough to pull it back out and send to the trans shop.
Parts cleaning continued, also a little more trans investigation. Pulled the governor to check the driven gear (it's plastic or nylon), it looked fine; Pulled the tail shaft housing to look at the speedo drive and driven gears (nylon or plastic), they also looked good;
I've got a new set of assorted th350 speedometer drive gears if you need a specific one to match rear end. I got lucky with mine that I ended up with mint gears from three transmissions and managed to nail the right combo the first try. So my pack of new gears are yours if you need them
Np. They weren't expensive. Plus like I said I nailed it on my car so there's not much probability of me needing them at this point
Using the TCI Speedo Gear Calculator; https://www.tciauto.com/speedometer-gear-calculator And inputting the drive gear teeth @ 8 (it's black so that's a good guess, I'll verify), the rear gears (the seller said its 3.73, needs verified) and tire diameter of 27.7 (theoretical number for 215/75R15), the calculator comes up with approximately a 22 tooth driven gear (or gray). The gear I have appears to be red (which is supposed to be 21 tooth), so i'm not far off to start with, if all the other info proves out. I'll do more homework and then PM you. Thanks!
Progress has been slowed a little, due to a health problem with my right leg. Apparently fifty years of motorcycle racing and broken knees will catch up with you when you are in your 70's, who knew? Despite the gimpy leg, I'm still averaging one or two hours a day in the shop. Not much when you are used to doing so much more, but forward progress nonetheless. Got the carb finished up, overall pleased but did manage to misplace the accelerator pump linkage. I know it's here somewhere, have been cleaning and organizing to try and find it. LOL How could I lose anything in this mess; Have the transmission just about ready to go back together, the pan was really beat up and dirty and rusty, will eventually replace it with something chrome or aluminum but for now just wanted it to be presentable. Gave it and the governor cover a really good cleaning and wire brushing, then painted them with silver caliper paint; Yesterday installed the flywheel and test fit the mini starter, flywheel went on great, mini starter is a no-go, tried the old stagger mount starter and that's what is needed; ARP fastener lube on the flywheel face and Loctite blue on the threads, 60 ft lbs; With flywheel on, started on the oil filter kit. Everything looks good for this set-up, but the included bolts were the wrong size. Once I have the correct bolts, it should go on without any issues; Have a bunch of parts on order including what I believe is the correct starter. The 35-36 rear trailing arms arrived yesterday afternoon. If all goes well and progress continues at this pace, we will at least have this thing started and running before we head South.
The Jalopy Journal
