Hot Rods 29 RPU- "Street/Strip" B/SR Build - Marty Strode

I don't know what that is ?

 

@28rpu recommended using a torch and carefully heat the pipes from the inside to cure them, since it will be a while before I start the engine. The ones on his Henry J look great, even after 8 years !

 

Thermal flame spraying , it leaves a textured white high temp coating on the headers. When they are applying it it looks like sparks shooting out of a spray gun. A few powder coating places do it around here. I have found it to be much more durable than paint. it seems to me it was really popular in the 60s-70s?

 

These are on my 37

 

Ooooh I like that !

 

My Dad would have that done on his headers and rams horn exhaust manifolds, It never failed. He called it aluminizing. Oakland sand blasting in Oakland CA. did it for him. This was back in the 70's.

 

I remember something about that but thought it had a rough finish. Possibly thinking about something else

 

It feels like 60 grit sandpaper.

 

flame spraying is something we did in aerospace quite often.

 

I built headers and side pipes for a Big Block Cobra, and the guy had them aluminized, it was like 24 grit. A little rough for my liking, but yours look great.

 

The headers on my previous RPU were aluminized, still are. 60 years later they still look presentable.

 

I had to bolt one side on.

 

Didn’t Cyclone or some other company offer that coating out of the box?

 

Marty, please tell me more about how things went with your rollbar conversation and whether it will be NHRA legal or not. I've been trying to figure out a way to look traditional and still be legal. Are you? I'm in the planning stages in my head.

 

Did a lot of it on aircraft cylinders back in the early '60s.

 

Boy the RPU is really killer

 

Dale,
It will be legal to 7.00 1/8 mile, 11.00, 1/4 mile, like any roll bar. The reason I had Dave stop by, was according to the rule book, it needs 6" square plates or 36 square inches per mounting plate in another configuration. He said the plates can have flanges formed, the keep the size of the footprint smaller, which is what I need, to get the bar in and out.

 

Thanks Marty. Keep posting pics of the roll bar as you progress. I don’t want a cage. Something simple like yours. Cheers from the High Desert Dale(Is it all bolted in?)

 

It will be.

 

Dale if you are doing a closed car, and the back braces aren't too long, it will slip out the door opening. This 32 sedan has 2 bolts into the frame rail, and the other into a gusseted bracket welded to the frame rail.

 

Marty, 29 roadster with a blown Olds 324 and a Muncie 4 speed, 66 Bronco 9inch, A/SR style. Period 1962-65. I'm building the chassis now. What do you mean by flanges formed? Thanks

 

It is molten aluminum spray I believe, I have a set that I had sprayed....

 

While a helmet is required, I was wondering about that that bar to the rear being a head knocker, but then the closer to the head the less momentum should the unspeakable happen.

 

I just finished the rear brackets and plates for the roll bar rear struts. I wanted everything under the bed floor, so if the roll bar is removed the boards can be replaced, and it will be flat and free of exposed mounting brackets. The brackets that will be welded to the frame are 3/16, and the roll bars plates are 10 ga. I formed the lower brackets in the press, and upper plates in the hand brake. Also, I have all the wheelie bar brackets fabbed, and will mount them once the truck is sitting on the floor. Then on to the main roll bar hoop mounting.

 

I did a rough mockup with the wheelie bars, the length is perfect, now need to decide the wheel height, and tack the brackets. There is plenty of adjustment, so I am starting in the middle.

 

Nice ,as always Marty !

 

Love the look of the white headers against the black body

 

I worked on the transporter yesterday, the pan on the C-6 trans has had a leak since I put it together. So I bought a deep aluminum pan and Lubelocker gasket. It carries and extra couple of quarts of fluid, and the drain plug is also very handy.

 

I have been experimenting with what to do with the hood, I fabbed a scoop that I really didn't like, it would be more suited on the hood of Gasser. Tonight I laid out an oval and cut it out, using the Kett Shear to cut the heart out and finished the trimming with Wiss tin snips. I may form a flange down around the inside. But after cutting it out, I think it might pass just the way it is. It will make squirting the injectors easy !