thanks. yea, thats the next step. right now i'm trying to eliminate the simple solutions first. i haven't actually driven it, but its running a bit cooler now. but first i've got issues with my ignition switch i gotta work out. thanks again. Chris
i got the same motor in my 51 chevy with a powerglide behind it dont waste your time wiht an old radiator buy an aluminum one and paint it black that is the only way ur going to cool it trust me
I have the same problem with my Buick.... I yanked the radiator and had it tested. Turns out that the rad was leaking at the headers on it. I just bought an alum rad and hope that resolves the issue.
yea, well for now it seems to be cooling fine. i DO plan on a new radiator, but will have to wait for some extra cash for that one. thanks Chris
the cap is the original, i couldn't tell you what its rated though...not very high. but so far the cooling issue has become alot better after some tweaking, but i still haven't really drove it for an extended period of time yet...
Update: ok, so after spring in lower hose, re-flush block and rad., trash elec fan and install plan mechanical fan, reset timing(took it from 10btdc to about 8btdc) re-set carb and idle (about 800rpm) and re-check everything as far as the cooling system it ran cooler while moving. just ran it around my block for about 10 min. or so and it stayed around 190-195 with airflow. got it back to driveway and let it idle for about 10 min. more and it ran up to 220-230. so i shut it off. i didn't bust through the cap or anything but basically overflowed my "puke catcher". i may have too much fluid in there but seriously, 220-230 at idle after only about 10min of driving at speeds below 35mph....that ain't right. so now, i'm thinking go ahead and replace the radiator and do a compression/leak down test on the cylinders.......f*ck....
I run a 180 in my .030 over 12-1 250 and it runs right at 180-185 a trip down the drag stip and the car only hits 190 MayBe???? 195 but by the time I get back into my pit parking spot the car is back at 180. And it only has a 2 core stock 70s nova Rad in it. and only about half of the ABS Flexlite Fan I had to trim the blades to clear the thermo housing.
yea, whatever is going on with mine just doesn't seem right. and i've had alot of people tell me that 200-210 isn't that hot, but i've got a buddy that ran a hopped up 454 in a '74 monte and he drove the piss outta it and it NEVER got to the tempuratures i am just running idle. well, as i said, the next step is a compressrion test and probably replace the rad. i don't think this rad is in bad shape, but its probably the one thing i haven't replaced on the car, so it definatley won't hurt. you have any other suggestions? thanks man Chris
Just because you have or see some flow in the rad does not mean it is flowing at 100% Sec how close is the fan?? does it have a shroud?? AT idle you should have enough fan draw to hold a rag on the grill if not almost pull it through depending on the style of grill. I know on my 64SS ChevyII,I can fold a rag in half with one side longger then the other and it will not un fold Or slide down the grill at idle. My fan sits about a half inch from the Rad. No shroud. And I can feel air draw the whole width of the fan blade. Also another way to test the Rad to see if the water is p***ing through all of it.Is to feel the face A Area maybe hotter then another ,It should feel the same all over If not then It is not seeing full water Flow. How may cores does it have?? Personaly I'd just take it out and have a Rad shop pull the tanks and Check it. And Depending on the size of the Rad It may not even have enough core size to keep the motor Cool like it should Even if the Rad is NEW.
well, i can say that i don't think the fan at idle will hold a rag to the grill, i know it will to the front face of the radiator. i do agree with what you're saying about it may be flowing just not 100%. i've done the "feel" test on it and there are no "cool" spots on the rad. it all seems evenly hot. i've probably got about an 1"+ between fan and rad without a shroud, which is as close as i could get the bolts through without pulling the radiator. the shroud is definatley a must, i just have not got to that one yet. maybe i need to start there. the radiator is the stock '53 rad. which i believe is a 3 core rad. (correct me if i'm wrong). maybe i'll just pull it and run it to a shop and see what they have to say about it. i'll pull that radiator for a shop to check out and in the mean time go ahead and move the fan closer and make or buy a shroud. thanks again. Chris
My truck runs a stock 292 and with the stock fan and 40 year old rad it sits at whatever temp my stat is rated at 160 in the summer and 190 in the winter whether I am running 60 on the motorway or towing a load through town. Definately something not right with yours. Have a similar problem to you on my Model A 4 banger different motor I know but when I pulled the head there was a blow between 3 and 4 although compression looked ok on a tester. Rich
thanks for the info. yea, i'm about to disect the cooling system once again and do the compression test, but now you've got me wondering about the test showing ok but that not being the case.... well, i'll start with the removing the rad and taking it to a shop to get it checked and my fan/shroud stuff and check the compression before i pull the head. thanks man Chris
Again before you drain everything down Get you a test kit to see if you have Gases in the anti freeze. This will tell you either a bad gasket Or head. NOT to sound like a smartA** are you sure the thermostat is installed right side up???? It's just a question I have known/seen people to install them upside down.( point side up & spring side down )
yea, i thought about the coolant tester you are talking about, just need to find one. but i am going to take that route. thanks for the reminder on that. don't worry, you don't sound like a smart***. (i had a buddy that did just that, had the t-stat in upside-down, it happens)...but to answer your questions, yes the t-stat it installed correctly.
If you can get the car over to a AC shop most of them can test it. And Some??? auto parts houses mit be able to test it for you as well.
I'm having the same issue with a new C20 I recently bought with the orig 292. I was looking at the water pump pulley size and was wondering what was factory. My water pump pulley is about 7inches across and seems HUGE.
Start your engine with the rad cap off. Watch the water in it. As the car reaches temp and the thermostat opens you should see movement of water. If you don't. Raise the idle slightly and see if the water moves. If it does with the raised idle put a smaller wp pulley. That's how we fix early Ford YBlocks
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