I searched the archives here and got some good info that helped me get the overdrive working again in my '58 Ford. My problem now is that it doesn't always want to kick down. I mash my right foot to the floor, the engine quits for a split second, yet I can't always pull the lockout cable out. I can't see to find any info on fixing this problem. Any ideas? Thanks guys!
You can't pull the cable easily with power applied. It torque-locks. Pull the cable as soon as you get on the road, and leave it. The only time it has to be pushed in, is when you need engine braking.
The cable is normally out. To engage OD, i push it in, and back off the gas. To pull it out of OD, It should pull out when you step on the pedal and engage the kickdown switch, but it doesn't always want to pull out even though the engine cuts out like it should. Since it cuts out the engine, I think the switch is working properly, so I think I have another problem.
Frank nailed it ... plus, if your kickdown relay cover is removable, clean the contacts with a point file. Also consider moving the k/d switch to a location you can reach under the dash so you don't have to floor it to shift back to direct.
Thanks for the info! Funny thing, that's how I got the O.D. working again....I rewired everything per my shop manual diagram, and took apart the solenoid, governor and relay and cleaned them and the contacts in all before re***embling. It will let me kick down half the time, and the other half it won't.
I have a scan of a trouble shooting flow chart from an old Motor's manual that might be of some help. PM me with your Email address if you want it, and I'll Email it to you. It is too big to post. Bob
The cable handle is NOT used in normal driving and use of the O.D. The lockout cable is just that: it either enables(in) or disables(out) the O.D. To use the O.D.; push the handle in then engage the clutch and accelerate to 26 m.p.h. (Doesn't make any difference which transmission gear you're in). At that speed the governor switch will tell the solenoid it's now O.K. to shift. Let up on the gas and the solenoid will shift into O.D. To kickdown into conventional, you floor the throttle to engage the kickdown switch which does two things: momentarily kills the engine (to take torque off the transmission) and signals the solenoid to shift out of O.D. At no point in this sequence is it necessary to twiddle with the Lockout handle. If you are driving in a situation where you want engine braking pull it out. Likewise, if you're going to be speed shifting, pull it out (to protect the O.D. planetary).
That transmission has one drain and two fill plugs. If the OD is sticky after years of use, drain off a pint of oil, wait a half hour for the OD to drain back to the trans, then fill the OD with ATF. The cleansing agents free up the stickies.
You can push it in while driving--BUT you may DAMAGE the overdrive if you pull it out while driving. Only pull it out while stopped. <embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://img.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v104/overspray/100_0303.flv">
thanks for the video overspray! And all the help from you guys explaining how this monster works. im looking forward to driving my 51 merc with o.d.
I love mine. I usually just leave it in and haven't really ever had to kick it out of OD on the highway. It always seems to have enough power to pull around and stay in OD. It is a pain to stop and have to take it out. I've only had to do that once going over Pacheco p***... Thought it'd be better in third. I was wrong and have done the same hill several times now in OD.
I've got a 3-spd OD for the 223 in my '64 Pickup. Visually, it looks like a shoe-in, but I'm completely intimidated by this project. Is it tough to retro-fit a non-OD system to OD? Seems like a TON of compatibility details as well. Where do I start???
I wouldn't mess with the handle with the vehicle in motion. Normal operation provides for upshifts and downshifts without touching the handle. If you're nailing the throttle and the ignition cuts out--- but the OD doesn't downshift---- then the problem may be that the kickdown switch is not interrupting the solenoid or the solenoid is sticking in place. The kickdown switch is a double-pole switch. One pole kills the ignition while the other pole interrupts power to the solenoid. Check your connections and routing.
If your truck was or is a three on the tree, it's basically the same except for the OD wiring harness (which is available reproduction very reasonable), kickdown linkage and switch ( which you can make or find used and is very simple), lock-out cable ( are available new and used or which are the same or similar to a truck throttle cable) and relay which is available new or used or you can wire in a Bosch relay to do the same job. My model A uses a Ford OD transmission, Ford 3 speed column shifter, repro 56 Ford OD wire harness, Studebaker kickdown switch with my own fabricated linkage, and a Bosch relay inside an old Ford relay housing. The repro harness comes with a wiring diagram and I can email you the relay wiring for the Bosch. check back to this thread: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=432370&highlight=bosch+relay+overdrive Go for it!! overspray
Overspray... you rule. It is 3-on-the-tree. I think I can do this. Lemme research that thread. Gonna get the ****** up on the bench and start checking thinks out. I'd really appreciate that wiring diagram. My email: rcrook0307@yahoo.com.
This might be an old thread but dont want too make a new one . Is it obvious when they shift into od. And are they suppose to freewheel at higher speeds ? I take mine out get it up to 50 or so let off the gas and go into it again iam not sure if its in od. And once you let up off of it freewheels is that normal at higher speeds ?
Freewheeling stops when OD is upshifted. Upshift feels like an automatic transmission upshift. It sounds like you are not upshifting.
Good stuff guys if I may ask the question is it worth the h***le in putting one of these Overdrives ******s in in place of the standard 3 speed
Fordification has a good technical overview of the overdrive, here is the link: http://www.fordification.com/tech/overdrive.htm
if you have a low rear ratio 411 392 the overdrive is great. ithink they are about 72 % very good for highway driving at lower rpms if your running it with the flathead in your avatar it would be great
I can hear the solenoid click when its pushed in after slowing down below 28 mph or around that speed. So electrically it seems fine so it must be something in the ****** then Anybody have a wireing diagram handy too possibley post or a link to a post thanks. As a quick test however, know that a transmission that freewheels can generally be made operational with an electrical repair. If the transmission does not freewheel (This can even be checked with the transmission out of the car) then it should be ***umed that the overdrive compartment was not filled with 90 wt oil and the planetary gears are seized. It needs to go a transmission spe******t for a rebuild.
Also on these trans are they suppose to have the lock out switch on them also that connects to governor ?
My O.D. in my roadster drops the rpm's from 2900 to 2050 at 70mph. I needed a trans to complete my build, so there was no more expense to just buy an O.D. Plus 24 mpg is nice when you are on a fixed income.
Here you go, an illustration showing the components, a 1957 wiring diagram, and layout drawing from the parts book. The wiring colors for 1958 should be the same as 1957. And FYI, the lock out switch was discontinued after 1950.
Got off from work this afternoon. Got under the 49 and said ok why isnt this od working. Cleaned contacts on the governor and lock out switch. Ok the over drive cable pawl wasnt really going all the way back. Not alot of cable on the end either. I got it to go back a little bit. Took it out this evening got it up to 50 in 3rd slammed the od cable in left off the gas bump ok what was that. OVERDRIVE . Running a 6v westach tach got it to 70 2200 rpms before it was close to 3000. So i got it working. I will leave the overdrive in. Remember to set the parking brake or put in reverse. Thanks for the hints and tips.
Search for my posts on overdrive units, there's been a few different ones I've posted on to help out with installs on non o/d cars. Either locate all the stock parts or use a toggle, cable and a relay, depends which way you want to go. Also if the car is freewheeling then the arm is in the wrong position, the cable must be adjusted right or the whole thing won't work.
I've rebuilt and driven a couple Borg Warner overdrives, and I love them. I made my own kickdown switches & kickdown linkage & wired them up from scratch. It's really easy, once you understand the system. If you study the system the necessary wiring becomes obvious.
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