Haven't been on in a while. Hot rod buddy passed away and I sat down and lost interest. My fordor no fender banger hot rod has a battery box with the master cylinder mount built into it. It is just ok, and only a single cavity cylinder. The double will not fit, as I am running a S10 5 speed. I am doing away with the battery under the seat to give me room for a good double cylinder. Who makes a good bracket/pedal and mount assembly? I kinda want the frame mount style unless you all tell me different. This looks good, but I would like to see some pics of one mounted. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1928-1931-...sembly-w-Manual-Master-Cylinder-/350514907011
No, only the brake pedal. Thats what I am confused about. Without seeing a setup I am thinking the stock clutch pedal will not work.
I have purchased stuff from Old Yankee, but see nothing he has that will work with my mech clutch pedals. If I need to I will replace clutch pedal with slave also I guess.
A better choice than the one you show would be a brake/clutch assembly, as this will ensure proper pedal spacing and identical swing patterns. I put one in my Model A with a T5. I modified the assembly somewhat (can't recall all the details) because of the car being channeled. I also opted for a Tilton hydraulic throw out bearing but that is all personal preference.]
@A 2 B , is that the Pete & Jake's #2040? https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/xlarge/paj-2040_xl.jpg
I bought it at a swap meet, part of a large parts cache. Got it cheap with no info. Works great but I did have to replace the clutch master for a Wilwood that was matched to the Tilton hydraulic throw out bearing. Mine looked exactly like the one in this link: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/321277832443?hash=item4acda6acfb:g:kpAAAOxyPLpRb7Gw
Wilwood makes a dual cylinder assembly that will mount either "swing" or under the floor. It has a front, rear bias adjust built in also.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1928-1931-Model-A-Ford-Pedal-Assembly-w-Manual-Master-Cylinder-/350514907011?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5337012795&toolid=10001 Or this https://www.ebay.com/itm/1415028722...J7rMdTkI-pIV8-rHmGWSh_A9NVyjDDghoCBbsQAvD_BwE
You'll have to visualize if the original clutch pedal will work, if you remove the original brake pedal, to be replaced by the black pedal assembly you suggested in the first post. Otherwise, something like the red one shown above would need to be adapted to the Model A frame rail.
It is sitting in the barn and I need to get off my butt and go look at it. This is a banger with an overhead on it. Mechanical throw out bearing. New engine was just set in last fall. I am not pulling the engine to change to hyd throw out. Currently have a single master cylinder bolted to the battery box. The style boling bros sells. Problem is that it barely fits against the S10 5 speed. I think I will buy the bracket from Ebay and modify it as needed to work with the original brake pedal. I also have a bracket to mount a single cavity Wilwod to the 5 speed tranny. Really nice setup, but only single cavity. I will take some pics today and post them. Thanks guys, I thought someone would have already done this. The engine doesn't flex much on the mounts, but the frame does. I don't like the setup now as pedal is mounted on the engine and the master cylinder is mounted on the frame/battery box. Gotta be some flex somewhere. Again, I will snag some pics today. Thanks again
Can you modify your parts to work like this often used competitor? https://www.bolingbrothers.com/model-a-master-cylinder-battery-box-assembly/ Would that correct your concerns? Or start over with the BB battery box, which is similar in price to the other pedal adapters? This solution has been successfully done many times. Any thoughts on rebuilding the mechanical brake setup? Here is a rod that is driven regularly in San Francisco with mechanical brakes: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/building-my-first-roadster-in-san-francisco.1204990/
Phil, currently running that BB battery box setup. It is fine with the single cavity master cylinder. Anything else will not fit. Too close to the 5 speed tranny. I like the one I have that bolts to the S10 tranny, and may modify it to adapt a double master cylinder. I also want to add the proper valves to a double and get this right. It is an old banger hot rod, but I want to get the stopping right. Its all another reason to get the battery box out of the way also.
I think I finally understand what your desire, with both the pedals and the master cylinder mounted to the engine/transmission. On my A, the battery was in a homemade angle iron frame on the passenger side. Another thought is to provide some stress relief for the frame mounted hard brake lines?
I moved the battery box to the passenger side and used the Boling brothers model a brake and clutch pedal assembly with the mustang master cylinder. I fabricated a mechanical linkage to the clutch fork. Phil
thanks Phil, good pics. And helps a lot. I hate to chop more out of the crossmember, but looks like it is needed. I ordered parts and when the weather breaks a little I will get planning.
I'm dealing with a similar situation on a Y-block/T-5 roadster build. My crossmember is 7" from where I want my pedal bracket. If I go forward the bellhousing takes up a bunch of real estate. I haven't done it yet but I am think about moving the master cylinder behind the cross member and building an extension rod.
That's what I did with mine. Car is channeled the height of the frame and I didn't want the M/C hanging below frame, but I needed to keep the front of the floor as low as possible for leg room. Moved the M/C back to right in front of the seat and cut away what I didn't need of the old M/C and pedal mount. Bought a piece of DOM and a male Heim joint.
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