I've been lurking around for a while in the parts collecting phase of my project roadster. A couple of days ago I found a 35 frame with complete front suspension, pedals, and X brace. The rear kick up was rusted out but otherwise solid frame all around. While I'm in the process of acquiring the rest of my parts I wanted to know if anyone has any pictures of a 30's body on a 35 frame that I could use as reference to see what it would look like before I commit to this frame.
It's not a drop down and on process for sure. You'll need to narrow the frame, also The 35-40 frame has a slight dip in the rails. None of that will play well with the A body so you'll have to really work for it.
A '35 frame is far from ideal for an A; but if the price is right (should be if the rear rails are rusted out); there is a lot of good stuff there to use with a set of repop deuce rails. The center X, front axle (get it dropped), wishbones, tie rod, rear crossmember (flatten it). You can adapt juice brakes to the '35 spindles or better yet sell them and put the $ money towards later ones. Pedal assembly can be reworked or a later hydraulic set bolts up without much work. You didn't mention rear suspension on the '35 frame; but if it is there the rear end, bones, and spring can be used also. Most everything other than the rear crossmember can also work with an A frame too. Couple of pictures, one a deuce frame, the other a drawing of an A frame done up this way. The deuce frame was set up for a flathead; but the center area was made wider so it could accept later drivetrains. The A could be done the same way.
If you want to know by the numbers what your getting into go to Wescott's web sight and down load there frame blue prints and do an over lay. Like 31 Vick said, it's not a drop on and go deal. There are some good pieces there and I've done the Mix-n-Match your talking about. My advice is Think first then get on with it. The Wizzard
I've posted these photos here many many times. The frame drawing above don't tell it all. I used spring ahead front axle and spring behind rear axle so not to need a kick in frame and a good low stance. I'm running a 40 steering box without a Box on the frame, no issues with motor. My wheel base is absolutly stock. I understand I think different than most and have already heard enough negative Tooth Chipping from the bleachers. Maybe I can help ya, maybe not. It's just a different way of doing things. The Wizzard
Frames are 2 x totally different animals, I wouldn't waste a good 35 chassis trying to modify it. Model A frame is easy to fabricate with a K-member. I've seen upturned 47 Ford X-members in 32s.
I've toyed with the idea myself a stock model A frame is like a plank we spend so much time and effort trying to get our cars low.... my thought was to dissasemble a '35-6 frame if you set a model A rear crossmember in at the highest point or center of the rear kick up and rework the rails a bit to lessen the amount the rails "pinch" in so that you can use a model A width front crossmember and model A frame horns narrow your x member and you would end up with a swoopy low long frame you could set your motor back for better weight distribution etc. those axles are a good start too convert the front axle to spring over and the rear to spring in front
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