Good job on the inner rumble lid! I am going to have to do something similar... Here is a Howells panel. It seems nice, but definitely will require a little work. It has no real depth, as seen in the final pic, and they don't connect the corners.
That looks nice but I don't think we're talking about the same panel Ben. This is what I'm talking about. These are the ones from Snyders. They're pretty bad. I don't know if it's even worth trying to fix these. They feel like 20ga maybe.
Oh, no problem. Kinda sucks how the panels aren't what you want, and then you can't really return them either. Happens to me a lot! Keep up the good work though!
If seeing me make one of these makes you think it's a good idea, don't do it haha. I should be done tomorrow but this is 3 days I could have been working on something more important then a part that costs 300 bucks. It will be cool to say I made it but I'm running out of time in school.
Great job though, looks well done. Think you will be able to do the wheel well flares? Need to solve that myself. Thanks.
The panel on the right is home made. The one on the left is a junk one from some distributor. Who lap welds stuff? Almost done. Just needs a little more sanding. I made the floor panel that goes under the seat riser and ordered the rest from Snyders. I also ordered the curved inner panel for the very back but apparently they think the one for a trunk should be on the rumble parts page, so I ordered the wrong one. So now I have to send that back and get the right one. I said screw Snyders and decided to give Howells a chance. I'm also sending back the garbage lower corners they sold me. I ordered the 9 inch tall ones and curved inner panel from Howells. Hopefully I have better luck with their stuff. The or floor parts from Snyders fit with just a little bit of persuasion. The goal for tomorrow is to finish the door and adjust it then start working on the quarters.
First, thanks for your service. Your work is superb. You really picked up metal forming quickly. Following this thread with a lot of interest.
Looks great! Got to keep moving while you have all the tools at your disposal. Bert's model A in Denver is a good outlet for parts. I was happy with the patches I got from them for my '29. Although I didn't replace those corners like you need to.
let us know how the Howell's panels work out, at one time people were saying that all the panels are made by the same company and doesent matter who you buy from. Don't know if this is true. Nice work anyway!
Some very nice work so far. I'll really interested in watching your posts, as I am working on a 31 on Deuce rails. My rear wheel wells were also cut along the radius, so looking forward to seeing how you resolve this. I also have the flat wheel well panels from Brookville. I'm new to this, so how did you attach the panel below the read deck lid? Spot weld or bolt? Also, how are you attaching the sub rails to the lower body panels? Welds? Can't thank you enough for your service from an old Vietnam Vet. Looking forward to more posts [emoji2]
I was actually just sitting here thinking about how they were supposed to be attached. Mine weren't really attached when I got the car and I guess I never payed attention on my roadster seeing as it's a brookville body. The panel below the deck lid is bolted on. I think I've been going about the wheel wells all wrong. I have access to a lot of badass tools and it's made me forget the basics. Instead of trying to take a straight strip of metal, I'm going to put everything in place and use some card to lay everything out. I figure it will give me a crescent shape. I'll just cut that out for each side. It will use more metal but take less time. Then I'll just radius the edge half way on each panel and weld them together. In my head that sounds like it will work just fine.
From another Vet ( US Army 68-71), Thanks for your service. Nice job! If you're new to fab work, stick with it! A lot of the stuff you're making isn't available after market ( and if it was it probably wouldn't fit). The new stuff doesn't have crisp corners 'and the feature lines aren't even close. The rear quarter piece where all the lines come together being the worst. Easiest way to put them on is to chop them up into 3 parts; only thing that sucks is sanding them in after and trying to get the details sharp again. ( sore fingertips!!)
First thing I did today was make the channel for the quarter window to sit in. Next I cut the window part off the quarter. I cut off the part where it bolts to the back window section and welded it to the new quarter window section. Then I put the back window section back on the car. And finally test fit the new quarter window. I believe we have a lecture tomorrow so I will have to wait until Thursday to continue working the panel that goes over the door.
New quarter window and panel above door in tacked on. I was going to get a roof off another car but I think I'm just gunna make my own. That's what the flat sheet on top is.
I had a lecture today so I didn't get much done. I started wheeling my roof filler. It's still a little flat so I'll have to do more tomorrow.
My visor was pretty rough so I decided to make a new one. I started by making a pattern and cutting it out of 18ga. Next I started to tip the front edge down. I tipped it as far as I could and used a thin spoon and hammer to bend it over until it was almost closed. Then I inserted a piece of tip wire and hammered it all the way over. Then I rolled the other beads into it. It took a little bit of shrinking and I wheeled the top part a little to smooth it out. I still need to shrink the metal on rah end to get it to curve a little more, but it's just about done. I also got my roof filler tacked in but forgot to take pictures.
I've never made a visor, but I've considered it so take my comments with a grain of salt. Shouldn't that leading edge that you are rolling over be covered in weld through primer before you start? Just thinking that could be a potential source of rust to mess up the final paint when you're done. There's no way you'll spray anything in there once it's squeezed... maybe you could still pour some primer in there ?
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