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Hot Rods 30 Tudor Chop and...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hot Rod Brando, Mar 8, 2016.

  1. Hey all: here is my '30 Tudor that I scored a couple months ago. I'm going to build a traditional style hot rod (split wishbones, flathead etc) and I want to take 3" out of the roof. So... I am new to all of this butchering stuff. I've watched just about every youtube vid there is and I have most of the sheet metal stuff covered.
    My question is around the wood inside. Sorry for the ignorant question but do you just cut through it or do you remove it and modify it? I can't find any thread that talks at all about the actual "woodwork". The car is extremely solid although the fenders are garbage (I'm going to run fenders so if anyone has any suggestions on sources...) Anyway, the wood is in perfect shape so just need to plan that part. I'll post progress here as it's made but for right now it's just planning :)
    THx for any advice or direction Model A driver side.jpg
     
    kiwijeff and Chucky like this.
  2. VOODOO ROD & CUSTOM
    Joined: Dec 27, 2009
    Posts: 1,310

    VOODOO ROD & CUSTOM
    Member

    Damn that's a nice Body.
    I cut right through with a Sawzall and use dowels when I set the chop back together.

    VR&C.
     
  3. So are you saying do a couple vertical dowels? And thanks on the body. So far I found a couple small pin holes in the drivers door and a couple in the wheel well but that's it. It was in storage since the very early 80's. Someone played with it once and then it looks like they started again (a bunch of stuff is unbolted). The underside is immaculate. I was almost going to just go stock as the whole drive train is there but the hot rod Gods are calling...
     
  4. Everyone has different ways of doing it I like to take the wood out and cut it in a step and make a Dutchman joint. Also. I try to weld it back on the inside. It cuts way down on the grinding on the sheet metal and leaves more metal for a stronger joint.
     
  5. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 6,122

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    Yea for hot rods...
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2016
  6. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,287

    alchemy
    Member

    If you don't mind removing all the nails in the jamb, taking the wood all the way out will give you the best result. That way you can just chop the top off the wood, you'll be able to weld the inner channel behind it, and you'll have a stronger finished product. But there are lots of guys who just cut right through it when chopping the top and many don't do anything to reattach the two halves of the wood to each other. Oh well.
     
    kiwijeff likes this.
  7. When it comes to cutting Model A's I disagree with most everyone on here. Bottom line is I just think different than most. I like to do the least amount of impact for the best results. Think outside the Box. Actually look at what your doing before just following the heard.
    I do not cut a section out of the Center of any inner structure. Wood dowels in the center of a support post? Come on. Why split and wedge the vertical's to align the glass channels? Yes there is a tapper in the sheet metal top to bottom. Why make that mess to start with? Just because everyone else does? I think Not. There is a better way.
    The Wizzard
     
  8. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,888

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    Junk fenders? those are cherry compared to many I've seen
     
  9. Pete
    Joined: Mar 8, 2001
    Posts: 4,793

    Pete
    Member

    WIZZARD


    Maybe you could post up some examples of your work, I'd love to see them.
     
    Nailhead Jason likes this.
  10. Pete
    Joined: Mar 8, 2001
    Posts: 4,793

    Pete
    Member

    Here's one way to chop without cutting thru the wood.
    image.png
     
    Hot Rod Brando likes this.
  11. onekoolkat1950
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,866

    onekoolkat1950
    Member

    [​IMG][​IMG]i did mine the same way Pete did. Pull the nails, cut the metal , lift off the roof trim and reshape the wood then put it back on.
     
  12. onekoolkat1950
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,866

    onekoolkat1950
    Member

  13. VOODOO ROD & CUSTOM
    Joined: Dec 27, 2009
    Posts: 1,310

    VOODOO ROD & CUSTOM
    Member

    onecoolkat1950 does show the "best" overall way.

    VR&C.
     
  14. Pete
    Joined: Mar 8, 2001
    Posts: 4,793

    Pete
    Member

  15. I really like that way. Next time I have one with useable wood in it I'll be going at it that way for sure.
     
  16. onekoolkat1950
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,866

    onekoolkat1950
    Member

    I have rough measurements in my shop for the top wood screws at all posts . If you cut at the right height it will give you access to the top screws and will make it much easier to remove the top of the wood.
     
    Hot Rod Brando likes this.
  17. Pete; I truly wish I could. It's been 12 years since I chopped my last A Sedan. I didn't have a digital camera back then. What I'm leading to and have done is not to cut the inner structure in the center of them at all. I also didn't cut the Window openings in the center of there openings. Most often a vertical wedge to bring things back in alignment makes a Buldge. I avoid that. I also did not cut the T strip at the Chop line. Graphing it back together is tough at best. Why do it?
    So most of us remove the top insert and the headliner along with the rest of upholstery. Now you have the inner skeliton exposed. I simply removed the rivets of each vertical post from the top horozontal bar and removed needed amount from the top of each post. reattach horozontal bar. This don't involve doweling the wood at all and no wedge to deal with. For the body skin, find the end of the top corner radei on the vertical edge. Make a horozontal line. Now go down the amount you want to Chop. Cut on lower line and remove top. This exposes the inner structure to do said work. Next cut top line and re attach top, No wedge. Unbolt the back panel and remove T strip. After chop reinstall and bend to fit lower seam, cut extra off the end, No butt weld.
    I know I'm making this sound over simple but I'm going by memory. I do however have a 30 sedan I plan to do at a latter date. I'll be more than glad to document it at that time. Right now I'm in the middle of my 30 Roadster. If you have doubts that I have the ability to do this just pull up some of my past photos. I wouldn't miss lead my H.A.M.B. pals.
    The Wizzard
     

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