1952-59 Ford 302 Help

I have the engine mounted in the car and the only wire I have connected is the starter wire when I touch it to the battery (stock 302 starter and it fits). When I try to touch the starter cable to the battery positive to turn the motor over all I get are sparks. I have the ground on the engine to the battery but it just sparks. I checked it with an ohm meter on the starter terminal to the ch***is ground and it is reading resistance.

This is killing me because I have no clue what is wrong That is the only wire connected to the engine

 

I would remove the starter and bench check it to see if it is shorted out. Also I think these starters pull about 400 or so amps, you might get a big spark when you try that. I would wire the battery through the starter relay then to the starter. The relay is made to take the amps when starting.

 

Will pick up a starter solenoid tomorrow and see if that changes anything.

 

What year 302? The later 1989-94 PMGR Hi-Torque starter like this is wired different than the earlier large units. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Ford-Mi...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6d43c98c&vxp=mtr These leave a lot more room for exhaust clearance on the p***enger side.

 

A starter solenoid will not change your conditions. When directly touching the hot starter wire directly to the battery, it will throw off sparks, but it should definitely also turn the starter over. If it does not, then something is wrong. I would remove the starter and bench test it before going any farther. While out, turn the engine over by hand to make sure your engine is not seized(unlikely). The problem is most likely starter related.
Mike

 

jeff82, I paid $100 at a local parts store & they wanted the old one in exchange. Guess I should have shopped around.

 

Don't forget a good ground cable from motor to frame. Imortant.

 

It is a 302 out of a 1982 F150. I am using a reman starter that is an OE version. I still have tons of room with the old style starter.

 

Another issue here pertains to short snout/long snout starter. You didn't say whether your running manual or auto flywheel/flexplate. It is possible to have have to inccorect starter for your application.
Again, bench check your starter----starter,battery,jumper cables. Make sure the bendix is turning. If your purchased your starter from a discount parts house, you could have a lemon.
Mike

 

RF, It is an automatic and it is the correct one. I took it back to the parts house today and it tested fine. Bought a solenoid and still no change. All it will do is make the wires really hot but will not spin the starter. I am at my wits end with this thing. No matter what I cannot get this thing to spin.

The engine is not locked up. The starter will neither spin nor engage. It just sits there an does nothing. The only wires connected to the engine is the starter wire. Nothing else is hooked up. I have tried to get it turning out of the car with a battery an some jumper cables but all it does is spark and get the wires really hot. Yet it tested fine at the parts store.

 

It is also showing 12 volts going across the solenoid with no activation. Measure from battery lug to starter lug. Yet nothing happens.

 

Ok---If your running an auto flexplate, then you should have the long snout starter. Did you actually see the starter engage at the parts store or did they just put it in a machine and tell you it was alright. It really make no sense that it will engage with a battery at the parts store but not with a battery on your bench. Like I said earlier, the starter solenoid has nothing to do with that. If that starter won't engage on your bench, then I still say somethings wrong with it. You have to make it work on your bench before you move forward. Now you said the engine was an 82. That should put it into the later vintage of 50oz balance flexplate. Hopefully you using the flexplate that came with the engine---if you've change flexplates that could cause the starter drive gear to hang up on the flexplate. It will also cause the engine to run with a weird vibration. Ford made that change in 80 to 81 depending on who you ask. Again, take your battery,jumper cables and starter to the parts store if you have to---make them show you. A starter is an electromagnet that engages a gear through centrifical force. Most of those guys at parts stores are computer jockeys.(I said most, not all) Hang in there Good Luck

 

tedly has it right,you need the motor grounded go to the parts house and get cables with ends like this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/STARTER-CAB...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ecb9ab6e4&vxp=mtr They have shorter ones,run one ground cable from a rear intake manifold bolt to the firewall run a second cable from your alternator bracket to the frame grind to bare metal where they will attach for good contact.Give this a read and follow the diagram to make sure the connections are correct:http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/966688-starter-relay-and-starter-issues-12v.html

 

They had the starter in a machine but I did hear it run wide open. I am using the flywheel and everything that came with the engine so nothing has been changed. I kept messing with it and it was trying to weld itself to the positive battery post but it wold try to turn over for a second before the ground wire got crazy hot trying to melt the ground wire. This was through the solenoid but when trying just the wire from the starter it would just arc/spark and do nothing.

What I am trying to do is get it to just run so I can see if it is any good. I am not trying to wire everything permanent just get it running for 30 seconds so I can see if it is worth keeping this engine. Got a one a one wire dizzy as well but right now just need to motor to turn over.

 

I would like to correct my statement earlier about the amps draw on that starter. It should only be about 200 amps or less. Sorry about that.