Used to be done all the time, I think you figure the tongue length of extra frame then cut a wedge out of the top and bottom , heat it , bend the rails together to form the tongue and add a hitch
I had one made from a 3/4 ton ford. It used the frame, bed and rear end from the truck, it was strong but it was HEAVY for a utility trailer. If I was to do it again, I would use the bed and make a simple box tube frame and use a lighter trailer axle. But if your not going to use it alot and don't have to wheel it by hand it would be fine.
I sure wish they hadn't scrapped the trailer my grandfather had. made from "40 Ford bed. sure would have made the current project easier and cheaper
using the front end would be a good idea. and yes a bare cab would be sellable. any part removed from one of those trucks is sellable.
Anythings sellable man. you just have to have the knack of finding the guy whos looking for it. -GothY-
Leave the frame rails long, leading up to your hitch, it will handle better on the highway and will be easier to back up. Does Cali require trailer brakes on a single axle trailer?
I agree with the longer frame. It makes the thing pull smoother at high speeds and much easier to back up. I used an S10 bed to make one a few years ago, set it low on a box-frame, included a tool box up front and electric brakes. It stops better than the '96 Impala I pull it with. Great for hauling parts cross-country. I thought about using an older bed, but the S10 was much lighter and easier to get my hands on. Don't forget running lights on the side. People think when they see my car pass that my lane is now empty... NOT!!! Happy wrenching!
If you can avoid using the rear end you should.We had an old half truck trailer like this and after a friend of my dads pirateing a gear out of it for his truck the thing towed like went on a 1,000 Diet way easier to tow not turning that rear end under it.
The stock springs and axle will have it setting real high. If I were doing it again I'd likely build my own frame and buy a trailer axle. Mine is based on a '54 Chevy frame and bed with a later rear. I used the later rear to avoid dealing with the closed drivelien issues, and I already had one with the correct pads set up for the springs.
...what Toymont said. At virtually no additional cost, except the hitch and bolts to tie it together.. ...
Check with DMV on tagging it. I recall some time ago they were not allowing this type of trailer to obtain new registration. Old ones already tagged were still OK, just no new ones allowed. I could be wrong, but worth a look. It has to do with the rear end. So maybe going with the straight axle is the way to go.
When I was in the air force I towed one made from a 56 ford from Texas to Pa. with my 69 Camaro. It was heavy and to make matters worse had a homemade plywood cap on it, plus it was loaded with my Harley and all our other worldly belongings. I had bought it in Texas right before the trip home and didn't know that at some point someone had welded the spiders. I was passing at truck at about 80mph, when the wind from the truck caught it and sent it rocking back and forth each time lifting the rear of the Camaro and throwing it from side to side tires screaming, while I'm trying to keep it between the center barrier and the truck. I didn't dare touch the brakes, I knew that the rears would probably lock when the ass end came up and make things worse, so I rode it out. I then pulled off the road and just went limp, I must have been white as a ghost. Scary ride, I slowed down after that. The point is, they're pretty high and kinda top heavy, so not really a great trailer IMHO.
Tried to buy one made from an AD Chevy in the spring, but couldn't get it out of where it was frozen into the ground. Tongue was made of pipe, frame was lopped off, I forget but I think it had a front axle with the steering welded up under it. Rediculously common to find these trailers -
you'll fined thefront axle and rear axle have different spacing on the springs and the front axle will be too narrow. leave the rear in it and make sure it's full of lube.... made a LOT of PU box trailers.....
Would it be that big a deal to take a piece of 1/4" plate on each side and bolt it to the innermost perch mount holes, and drill new ones to locate it on the rear spring? I suppose if you wanted to get really fancy, you could weld it up too.
that'd work IF the wheels/tires didn't rub on the inner fenderwells i cut and spliced mine and made the axle wider... anymore, i leave the rear end in 'em....
As an avid fan of the '54 (got 5) I'll say this: 1. The cab and stuff is saleable. The glove box door will fetch at least $30, maybe more. Only year for it. I'd love to have another non-midwest cab. Our TX cab is so nice to not sweat the body work AND have a floor. Running boards are great as well. I don't remember if you said it had fenders but I need some! 2. The bed is also a 1 year only. If anyone starts telling you to change the fender heights, the ribs on the inside look stupid. After '54 they did away with the ribs. I love them. It is the same box construction all the way into the 80s so tailgates are available. I got one for my son's truck at Billetproof Detroit for $15 in great shape. 3. Still has the narrow springs so think about that when changing to another axle. I've got a El Camino rear that fits nicely with no brakes. It was free. Looks like it will go right in. Watch narrow ones because they'll rib the tires on the inside of the bed. 4. Fenders are the same from 47S2-55S1 on those rears so plenty to chose from. 5. Enjenjo just builds a nice square tubing chassis for them and drops the box on top. The wiring is all run through and looks great and if you ever want to sell the box, you unbolt it and still have a trailer! 6. Send it my way!
this is a spring set from a horse drawn wagon it could be from something light like a buckboard or it could also be the seat springs from a heavier wagon like a freighter.
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