PBR: That radiator is a 64-66 mustang. You can get them in a two or three core, and the three fits perfect. I put one in my sedan, but not sure if you want to go that route, because it is not traditional chevy stuff! Just ********'n ya here is some pics of mine mounted, I put an expanded metal grille in it to look like the honey comb radiator. I still need to put a finishing piece on the bottom of the grille, but here is what it looks like. If you are running a small block I can give you the numbers to the hoses that I cut down to fit also.
Here is another pic of what the radiator looks like from the back. I did not bend anything on the radiator, I just made a 3/4 x3/4 .083 frame, and filled the ends. Then I welded some tabs that I drilled holes in on in the same spots that the radiator mounts, so it is a bolt in app., and if anything were to go wrong there would be no problem replacing it, because it does have a lifetime warranty. 160 bucks at Autozone. The radiator cap is alittle tight to get off, but if you don't have the axle and a transverse spring or cross member in the way, you could easily drop the radiator another inch and a half and still cover the top with the grille shell.
On my radiator on the bottom there are red plastic plugs that im not sure what they are for do these just need to be plugged ? What are you guys using for coolant? how about overflow tank? I took coat hangers and bent them to emitate the hoses i will need to find at the parts store Few other questions: How about the best type of fluid to run in the my rear and t5 ?? Any thoughts on what alternator i should use?? Not planning on having ac yet just basic stuff and maybe a radio no power locks or windows. 63 amps sound sufficient Thanks
The bottom caps are the trans cooler. Since you are running a manual, just cap them. The slave takes dot3, and the trans and rear take 85-90w gear oil. I would run the one wire delco alternator, easy to wire, and plenty of power. Hope this helps.
Cool! thanks, that will help save some $$$ rather than a custom made one. please send the hose info too....this one will be a SBC
Hello, 32 Chevys are pretty cool. I've been putting mine together for several years now and been driving it unfinished for about the same amount of time. Mines A 32 - two door Sedan, 350/350. Ford 9", 4 wheels disc brakes and an IFS front. Not traditional but my hotrod just the same. Later.
SLick looking 32 . IS the original wood in there? How about the windshield riser??? Quick update:: I relocated the t5 speedo gear .Put the s10 tailhousing on and sealed the t5 case3 up with rtv. clutch flywheel and pressure plate , clutch fork and throughout bear were all installed . I connected the driveshaft. its a good sign that i can shift in to 1st and lock the car up. All i need now is to make a slave cylinder mount. and.... cooling and charging stuff
sure did now i have to make a slave cylinder mount. Any know exactly how much the clutch for moves in order to move the pressure plate?
PBR: The bottom hose is an auto zone #61651 and the top hose is #61514 remember these are heavily cut to fit, but very inexpensive!
I'm sure you've thought of this, but when redesigning things, its a good idea to think about what it would take to repair/replace something after its all put together, without taking half the car apart. If you need to do some clutch work down the road, are you going to be able to get the bellhousing off??
In less than 15 minutes i can pull the ****** out with the way i designed things. I built a removable transmission crossmember and the ****** is light enought to never have to remove the engine for any clutch work. I also am making an access panel for the masters and also a removable floor so i and reach those bellhousing bolts.
Nice! You wouldn't happen to have any pics of how you replaced the two main sub rails with steel and then attached those to the body would you???
The two main subrails that were in my 32 weren't doing there job they were loose and porry redone. For some some one who has the wood still in there i'd brace the section by welding temperary bracing so that you can remove the sills one at a time. With the wood subrails removed; bracing them in my case woudn't of done jack; I picked up some 1.5" by 1.5" square tubing and cut it close to the lengnth of the wood subrail. I then slid it on the top of the rails of the ch***is and c clamp it and then drilled mount holes. Very simply , theres a verticle L shaped bracket that bolts to the body and layed on top of the main subrail in the very front on each side. at the back part the verticle pillar that the door latches on to is a flat metal oval area flange which bolted to the subrail at the bottom of pillar. I'll see if i can find some pics.
However there isnt much room for my feet . Hope I can fit the all three of the pedals in there. I know what you mean, My 33 Chevrolet is a straight shift too, once I'm in 5th theres no place for my left foot. The cab is to small to move the seat back, Most the time I just rest it on top of the clutch pedal
Hey mink; Your 250 sounds great. I like the way you are building that chivvy, especially being able to access the ******/etc from the top. I built Nash Hotrod where I can remove the seats and 'boards in a half hour, it's a lot easier working from the top.
6 cylinder in a chevy way to go. Man I have a 33 3 window bow tie and 57 desoto hemi and lots of parts. Your car makes me want get off my dead *** and get busy!!
This is great--I'm just starting a '29 Chevy. I have 2 quick questions: 1. You finally went with an '89 sonoma rear--did you have to change the spring perches? 2. It looks like you replaced the drag links with tie rod ends--how did you do this, what parts did you use? Alright that's 3 questions. Thanks, -dave
29woodie I decided to use a 373 from a Montecarlo I did this because I want do have the drum brakes in the rear in stead of the 89 sonomas rear caliper setup. The calipers were to small to run with an un boosted MC also the break spe******t said i'd have brake balance issues. I did have to grind and add spring pads to the axle. When i did this i also set my pinion angle. The drag link was bought from speedway for $80 it included the custom cut and threaed link as well as two tierods. I also bought a 7 degree tapered reamer. I removed the steering ball which is no easy task, and i reamed it so the ball joint would fit
Removed three of the bottom springs at 6 in the morning. It was one of thoses nights where you got to much on you mind so pull an all nighter. It brought down the rear alot. Also adjusted the toe in Ebayed this handle got it for 30 not whatever those overpriced lokars are going for. Its off an f100 i think.
Made a headlight bar and mounted some new king bees Running boards, flooring, electrical are next and rear taillight mounts
I finally installed that 70's fire bird battery tray. Found it new at a body restoration specialty shop. Bought a right angle ryobi drill, so as to not need to remove the ******. There is only like 8 inches of frame cleance from the ******, new drill fit in there easy and i drilled and tapped the inside of the boxed frame. Bought a pedal ***embly from welderseries and modifyed it to my liking. Added a clutch arm in the design and widened the plate and added a mount bracket. Picked up new willwood slave and a 1988 chevy slave cylinder.
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