Need help - Anybody have ideas? I want to keep my frame stock, and install a stronger 1940 or later banjo rear using the original un-cut frame cross member. And still want to get the rear end lowered. What are my options here? I can go open or closed driveshaft, but I'd like to keep wheels centered and tires tucked in under rear fenders. I've got an extra set of 32 bells. Thanks!
I used 36 bells, 36 rear radius rods, with a 42-47 open drive truck banjo center and a 40 spring in my avatar. I'm only using about 5 of the stock 40 spring leaves and I just ground away what I needed to slip the 40 spring into the curved 32 rear crossmember. It sits right where it's supposed to be, centered in the rear wheel well as if in a stock config. THe side shot gives you an example of ride height. I did use a panhard bar as you can see ....
IMHO, installing the '40 rear by grinding the '40 spring only helps to better center the rear wheel in the rear fender, especially with taller tires and on a car with a rake. Stock they're a little too far forward and it's exaggerated by the bigger tires and rake. I put a '41 Columbia in my '32, ground the spring, shortened the torque tube and built a driveshaft. The '37-'41 width is a great width for a '32 when using '40 style wheels. I've got 16x4s with 7.00-16s and the edge of the tire sits just inside the fender edge. Mine could probably use a 1/4-1/2" spacer on each side or maybe a 1/2" wider wheel to the outside to make it just about perfect. If you go with the stock '32 rear, it would require more offset on the wheels to achieve the same look, almost an inch on each side, I believe.
Why bother? There really isn't much difference in the 32 rear end than the 40 Ford rear end other than maybe the gear ratio, plus the 40 is wider so I dont see how you are gaining anything. The later bells have the same spring hanger center line just longer hangers so it requires you to cut up the cross member to match a later straight spring. It is not going to lower the car much, so if that is what you are attempting to do, a couple leafs out of the stock spring will do the same thing.
Thank you for all the quick replies- this is terrific! My deuce is an early 32 (AB Vin#) with the round flange Model A style rear. I want to put in a better hwy gear (now 4.11) and add strength for planned motor swap (currently 4-banger).
I say leave the stock 32 diff in it so you can maintain your wheel placement. and take a few leaves out of a 40 Front spring and reverse the eyes and she'll be nice and low. At that rate you may even qualify for a "C" notch.
Here are before and after comparisons using all stock parts... still have the original engine, trans, and rear end installed... that old Model B Banger motor runs like a top. First photo shows with all stock suspension as I got it in 2010. Second shows with 2-1/2 dropped front axle. Third is after the stock 10-leaf rear spring was replaced with a de-arched gennie 7-leaf. Still have a couple inches travel in the rear, and a sofer ride.
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