I am mocking up my 32 front fenders and why it seems straight forward I could use some help on best sequence and what fasteners are needed. I have looked on the internet without much success. Does someone know of a good tutorial or****embly illustration?
I start with rear fenders , then few in running boards , running board to rear fender , afew running board to frame Then front fender , leaving then front fender brace loose @ frame , a few threads on nuts/bolts , afew bolts @ fender to running board afew , fender to frame Setting head light bar in, then start adding more bolts , & tighten them up, Head light usually a pain in the***** Bolts through the bar and fender brackets ( especially drop bar)
You have all original parts with all the holes in them? You have all repro parts with none of the holes? Some more details might get you a better answer.
X2 ^^^^ This is my basic technique too. Everything loose and working to get everything****embled and bolts in all the holes before anything is final tightened
I've built a lot of FF deuces over the last 50+ years and have I think used every possible deuce fender made except the McDonald Douglas re-pros. Let me say this nothing beats a good set of Henry Ford fenders. Glass fenders are self explanatory, Gas Lights were not the best fit and took work. Along came Brookville, the rears fit really good but again the fronts need some work. Lastly we just installed United Pacific fenders F&R on my 32 pickup with an original frame and box and they were literally a bolt on requiring no work. This was my second set of UP fenders, I did them on a 5 window with one of my chassis and again they worked great. I do the same sequence as recommended above.
I have original frame, rear fenders, hood and running boards with UP front fenders. All the holes line up or close. I was trying to get the fit best before paint and my experience with other cars that sometimes the sequence of****embly is important. Thanks for the replies.
I have never done a '32 but have done several Model A's. The thing I do is bolt everything up loose first. By everything I mean fender braces, fenders, light bar etc. and then start to tighten as you go. If you are using reproduction fenders, good luck.
Nice /Good to know that U-P are duplicates of FoMoCo , will save you many hours of time & fitment !!!! A 32 is way more intense/curvy everywhere along the frame ,Front to Rear , then the model ""A""" An extra set of hands help !!!
I mocked mine up adjusted holes to accommodate each bolt finger tight. Then sent it off to my body/painter for final fit. I don’t think I did it in any particular order, but the painter said it was “killer” and was happy to not have to do all that pre fit.
I forgot to say I have a UP 5 window and I have been very pleased with everything on the body. I heard they have stopped making the complete body.
I am now trying to adjust the hood and need some help. The rear bottom panel needs adjustment about .250. Any tips welcome.
I am attempting to install a 1 inch dropped front cross member on my 32. I found a drawing on line that gives the dimensions. The drawing shows from the centerline of the crossmember to the front of the frame rail is 14 1/16. My question is that to the top of the frame rail as the bottom tapers back about 1/4 inch. Also there is a measurement of 32 inches to the center line of the crossmember shown. Is that dimension to the firewall?
I wouldn’t trust any measurements to round areas like the front end of the frame horn. Use a measurement to a hard corner or a hole centerline. If you want us to tell you what we think the drawing means, you should probably post the drawing.
You have to level the frame. All measurements are made from frame being level. The floorboard area of the frame is your spot to place your bubble. Use a plumb to set your marks.
This is the frame drawing I referenced. The 32 dimension was the one I was wondering about. In addition I talked to the supplier of the crossmember and they suggested I layback the crossmember 7 degrees even though there is 7 degrees build into the crossmember . Does that sound correct?
Nope. That is used to clamp the cowl down and adjust the doors. Especially useful with an original firewall.
Thanks for the reply alchemy. What was the original configuration? Does the bolt go in from the top and just air space from the bracket to the frame?
Yes , & @ slight angle into fram, Its part of door alignment/ ajustment if needed, Same with the Very Last sub-rail bolt on rear of body, , its also door ajustment One on each side , air gap ,, me after alignment are finalize, I measure & I make a Soild shim / spacer , just on rear Shim / spacer & add
I Have No ideal how the solenoid was added ,? I never even responded to the transmission question , (another thread ) I just put a like on what you said, I'm dealing with a double cataract
@19Eddy30 All good, I look through a thread, done the same thing replying to another an hour later. I was just having fun. Work on the eyes my man, only one set we have.
The rear body bolt originally was a bolt with a spring on top. David G over on Fordbarn posted a factory drawing showing it. There was a gap between the body and frame so pulling down tight is a mistake. My 3W came to me with the springs. I****ume it is to let the body somewhat float. The frames are very weak in torsion. I ran a test and it was alarming. The cars got a lot of frame stiffness from the fenders. I saw a row of 32 fronts hanging up and all the cracks were exactly in the same place. I have seen front fenders bowing.
^^^^^ @Andy , Just asking , your test Was it on stock Frame , or boxed ? What you mentioned makes sense Floating rear body & rear horns torsion, I wonder if Modern roads have changed The Issue from then , as being dirt/ wagon trails .
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