***embling my 1932 Ford roadster: Brookville body Tanks Inc stock type tank Small block Chevy with mechanical pump I'm trying to keep this traditional looking, using Ni-Copp line with br*** fittings. The line from the pump to carb will be all hard...would like these terminations to have minimal rubber line... How do/did/would you terminate the front and rear fuel line (fittings, brackets, clamps, rubber, etc.)? Photos appreciated. Thanks!
You need some kind of flexible line at the fuel pump, wouldn’t hurt one at the tank also. A six inch piece of fuel injection rubber with worm gear clamps would be the easiest. The fuel injection spec rubber seems to last longer, if the writing bothers you can sand it off.
On my 32 sedan I ran rigid up on to the firewall like stock and stock repro rubber to the fuel pump. View attachment 5648533 But that was on a flathead. I also ran a rubber line on the tank so I could slide it back on the frame rails without disconnecting if I had to work on the sending unit. However on the 283 that I am getting ready for my 40, I have rigid up to the Chevy pump with a short section of rubber over to the pump from the frame. Sorry, no pic. I did the same on my 41 Pickup with 330 Desoto hemi.
SBC pump to carb, should be able to get premade item from tri-five, pickup, or Corvette parts store. The premade may need some messaging to get it just right. All this depends a little on which carb and fuel pump you are using.
Thanks guys! How about where the hard line ends in the front - anybody got any pictures of how they ended the hard line and started the little piece of rubber that goes to the fuel pump? I'm thinking of a bracket with some sort of bulkhead fitting? Also, what are your thoughts on placement of a canister style (like the old fram ones) fuel filter? I have plenty of room on the p***enger side frame rail to the rear of where I have my transmission cooler mounted - that's about a foot to 18 in forward of where the rear axle is - there's nothing hot in that space and it's easy to get to
Not a 32.....but on my A with a Tanks trunk mounted fuel tank. Wix inline filter inside frame rail p***enger side.
¼" pipe to fuel hose for the pump/ch***is connection. I did a partial double flare to grab the hose at the line and used these clamps because my stuff is visible. My fuel line is in the stock location but upped it to 5/16 hard line in case I small block it some day.
The only rubber (flexible) line needed is from the frame line to the fuel pump. No flexible line is needed between the fuel pump and the carb. My stock 56 car has no flex line to the tank either.
What I'm trying to get an understanding of is where & how the hard line turns to rubber from the frame to the fuel pump...a bulkhead fitting or something?
You can do this a few ways, one is just tip up the line at the last inch or so and do a partial double flare to keep the hose. You could also dedicate a br*** block style fitting that takes a ¼ pipe to hose or flare to hose. Every turn or reduction in area is a volume and pressure reducer in most cases, so every fitting is the same. I like just hose to the actual line with a kool clamp. If you get rubber line that's also diesel compatible it's pretty tough stuff, less worry, same look. Now, if you wanna get really hinky you could get an AN style inverted flare fitting and flare nut for the hard line. Build a hose covered in that bumpy lacquered covering usually found on harnesses between the 2 AN style fittings. Finding AN anything in br*** is a pursuit akin to Indiana Jones but if they were stripped of anodized and polished they would look pretty trick. Just black is boring, paint will eventually fail perhaps. The cloth covering can be seen over my harness in this pic. Comes in several sizes.
The fuel line from the tank ends with a flare and nut fitting. The flex line is screwed into the pump with NPT threaded end. The other end accepts the flare nut male fitting. My 56 Ford YBlock uses the same flexible line as a 55-57 Chevrolet. It’s stock on most 50-up cars for sure. There were no flexible lines on the engine either. When I changed to dual quads I kept it that way. When guys cut lines to add filters between the pump and carburetor they should have the lines “bulbed” but they don’t. A steel line brake/fuel line tool like Eastwood sells can do both flare and bulb. I prefer the 50-60’s style gl*** AC filter that GM used. It’s a personal choice, but I like an engine with hard line fuel lines.
That's exactly the way some other cars I've had were done... problem is, I'm using Ni-Copp - it'a easy to bend and I'm worried about fatigue and cracks.
The last ni-copp hard line I did, I put the loop in the hose and just did a small bend off the frame with the hard line. That way the hose did all the bending, but getting the loop sized so it wouldn’t kink was tedious. It seemed to work well and it lasted. Sorry for the crude drawing, but here’s the idea (sorry I couldn’t find a pic):
Here’s what I’m doing, when done wit the fuel system, the only gear clamps will be on the tank and fuel filter.
I did a ton of reading on Nicopp/Cunifer before I installed mine. Testimonials are on about every car forum on the internet. Installed going on six years ago - no movement and no fatigue/cracking.....has been my experience. I got mine from Inline Tube.
Did you build that line, and where did the hose fittings come from? Seems I needed to spend more time looking, I really like it.
My local hydraulic hose shop supplied the hose and fittings. I was surprised on how reasonable the prices are. I took all the fittings home to mock up and will bring them back for crimping. There hose are all labeled made in USA and is all fuel compliant. I’ll go through my receipts and post prices if you want.
Always like to follow up when I find a solution. Here's what I'm in the process of doing - planning to use only a few inches of rubber hose...
The Jalopy Journal
