Hello all, I'm new to the HAMB (although I've lurked a while) and new to traditional hotrods. Over the years I have built several ground-up vehicles, but they have pretty much all been 4x4 offroad type stuff. When not playing with cars and trucks I'm usually playing with boats and quads and motorcycles and whatnot. My poor barn is bursting at the seams! Anyhow, I just recently brought home most of the parts of my first hotrod project, a '32 Ford pickup. I still owe the seller some money on the truck, and he still needs to excavate some more parts, but my understanding is that once it's all paid and collected there'll be MOST of the parts. The truck currently has a 4-banger in it. The head was cracked, and there's a decent amount of rusty-crusty in the cylinders. I don't have a pic before I christened it with ATF, but here's how it looks as of now. I'm hoping with a few weeks of soaking and careful persuasion I can get it freed up enough to take apart and see if it's salvageable The truck came with an extra flathead V8 that at least LOOKS pretty good, as it turns over and has really clean bores. That engine came with the original heads, but also a set of old Offy fin'd heads and a 3-duece intake populated with a trio of Stromberg 97's. My short term goal for this truck is to put it back together in some kind of running/driving format. Long term I'd like to get that V8 in it, probably with a T5 and a quick change. Since you gents have MUCH more experience with these things that I do, what are your thoughts on my best course of action for getting this to be a running driving truck in the short term? The banger's head was cracked (can sorta be seen in the pictures above) and it's sorta rusty. Is it likely the block was cracked in the same event as the head? The V8 looks pretty clean, but I have done enough engine swaps to know that they're never as easy as they seem like they should be.... All thoughts are appreciated!
Can any of y'all ID the transmission that's attached to the V8, and fill me in on what it takes to make this work out in my B chassis? I have ZERO experience with the closed drive system. I can cut and paste on normal driveshafts all day long, just don't know what I 'm doing here! Would I move the crossmember back, and then shorten the torque tube?
A 39-ish transmission, with the same rear mount. Can't tell the internals until you open the top and measure some stuff. The rearend in the pickup is a 32 for a B model. The transmission would bolt up just fine with the switch to a 32 rear trans mount. Bolts right on.
As cool as a built banger would be I would go with the flattie. The banger has poured babbit bearings. Once you get it a part you can check their condition.If they are shot then you need to have new ones poured,and line bored. Unless you get lucky,and live near one of the few machine shops that still do this work then theres going to be shipping involved. The flat head after 1937 has insert bearings making a rebuild that much easier. If your a tall guy 32-34 PU trucks are small. Im 6 ft 1, and I dont drive my 32 much. My 55 Chevy is just so much nicer. Remove the gas tank,and the wood support in the back of the cab will allow a lower seat mounted farther back. Also get the title in your name before you start spending money. If theres no title figure out how to get one before the build.
I'm 6' / 240lb so it's tight for sure. I sat in it a bit and made motor noises with my little guy (he's 6 years old). It's not roomy, but we managed. I know the interior has been 'done' to some extent, but I have no idea how similar this is geometrically to the original.
So if I get a different rear (or center I guesss...) crossmember that V8 and trans will bolt right up? What does that do to the location of my rear axle? It seems like if that crossmember moves fore or aft I'll end up with my rear axle in a different spot due to the torque tube....
I do have this '46 International hiding out in my barn, but it's my wife's and I am NOT allowed to cut it up!
Stick with the banger for now. Hopefully the head cracked and not the block. Swap on another B head. @rust
No. The rear trans mount unbolts from the back of the trans and you bolt on a 32 style mount and Bob's your uncle. You'd need front motor mounts fab'd up. Get the book "how to build a traditional hotrod" by Mike bishop and vern tardel.
Thanks! I did get a 'new' head from @34ratrodder a month or so back. I bought it from him before I had laid eyes on the truck, and the motor is a little rustier than I had anticipated. I'm still hoping to get it free'd up though. I just ordered that book a minute ago. Amazon santa says he's delivering it tomorrow. Thanks! These trannies also came with the truck.....do either of these have the '32 mount I'm looking for. My sincere apologies for being clueless here. Like I said, this is my first go-around with old iron, and I have a LOT to learn.
Or just use original style 32 V8 front motor mounts like these: https://carrillocustoms.com/products/1932-ford-motor-mounts-2 And the rear mount https://carrillocustoms.com/product...55877&pr_ref_pid=8125953835173&pr_seq=uniform You might find this thread useful as well. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/32-closed-cab-pickup-build.1236719/
the rear mount on the transmission that is currently in the truck will swap from the B transmission to the v8 trans you have and then it bolts right back in. Get some 32 v8 front engine mounts like Neal said, that gets you bolted in. Then some wires and a radiator job for the v8..
Nice truck, and If that V8 is any where running, the quick route would set it up with the transmissions you have. Pick up a V8 radiator, and finish up the incidentals like exhaust, wiring, plumbing, and you'll have a nice driver.
Not to hi jack this thread. I want to do the same thing closed driveline. I was told the torque tube for a v8 truck and a banger are different lengths. One is shorter than the other. Cant remember which one? Thanks
On the extra transmissions, the skinny one fits a 60 horse V8, not what you have, but still a valuable trans to a guy with a 60. The greasy one looks just like the one currently bolted to the flathead. Same sought-after double-detent top casting. But also hard to tell what internals are inside it. Shift it into neutral, undo the top bolts, then lift straight up. Then measure the distance between the fork tips on the larger fork.
This is one of my questions as well. I really need to grab a tape measure and go lay under the truck for a while. I have not had a chance to do that yet. I’m off a bit early, I should go do that now.
What @NealinCA said. I forgot about the front 32 motor mounts. I'm using those on my roadster project.
I think the seller has the v8 motor mounts. He has a V8 radiator and some other bits like that. I’m headed out to the barn to go lay under it for a while. Might have to sit in it and make motor noises for a while too.
Great project!! The biggest difference between a 32 cab and the 33-34 cabs is the extra space inside the cab. Being 6’2, the same as I, this will be a good change. Get an extended 33-34 firewall. It provides much needed knee and leg space. The 33-34 firewalls extend at least 3-4” into the engine bay. A good change before putting in your V-8. https://www.ebay.com/itm/164161563434
But the rear motor mount off of the B transmission can be swapped over to one of his V8 transmissions. You need the bearing retainer and plate, then add a new vulcanized mount. The torque tubes on 32's were all the same length, 4cyl and V8. It is 33-34 that there is a difference in length between 4Cyl and V8.
The Jalopy Journal
