32 frame newly arrived, is this correct??

So my 32 frame arrived this afternoon and I got something of a surprise.

I had already ordered a sub rail kit from Steadfast Mfg to allow my 30 body to sit on the frame but the frame is TOTALLY flat at the rear. I was expecting a rise/curve at the rear....

Am I missing something??!

Oh, and the frame was ordered as 'pinched and bobbed for a 31/31 body'. The guy is telling me the only way a Model A body will fit on the frame is to cut and narrow the rear. I haven't seen this before. I was expecting it to have a small cut out for the axle under the rear frame.

 

No,the set it up for a model A body,,,your good to go. HRP

 

Thanks HRP. I know you are likely shaking your head at these FNG questions but my blood pressure hhas been pretty high the last 30 mins!

So the sub rail kit will work on this setup, great.

Looks like I start building a car this weekend!!!

 

Did you order a subrail kit for a model A to sit on a 32 frame?
But the frame is already set up for a model A............

 

FACEPLANT...

Is it too late to take the 5th?!

 

Looks like that frame will use a stock A body with no subrail mods. You probably now own an extra subrail adapter kit.

 

That thing is going to sit eight miles high in the rear though..

 

...thats what I was thinking!

 

I can tell you a couple things...

1) You shouldn't have to cut the sub rails out in the rear.
2) The back end is going to be VERY HIGH and if you mount the A spring on top of the rear axle... it's going to be VERY VERY VERY high in the back.
3) You will NOT need the rear sub rail kit you bought. If you can't return it, PM me, I know a guy who needs one.

The best thing to do it mock up your suspension and see how it sits.

You'll need some rear body mounts on that frame too... it helps to adjust the doors.

Sam

 

Also... why is it so narrow? Looks like a Pro-Street chassis for big ol' Mickey Thompsons!

Sam

 

Where's the kick up in the rear? I know little about Model A's or 32's, but doesn't the frame need a kick up to keep the ass end low?

 

I'm pretty sure the jog inwards is for the narrower A wheel wells.

I never liked the look of the rails ending like that in front of the tubs. I much rather cut the heck out of the A subrails and trunk floor to use a 32 style frame.

 

WEX65, who actually built your frame? Did you order a pro street frame or was it just something they had left over?

Others are correct saying it will sit high.

Thanks Bob

 

Yup, that jog inwards is to fit inside the stock Model A subrails without having to modify them, you now have a subrail kit that you don't need. This frame will save you a lot of work on the subrails.

Use a Model T spring to bring the ass end down, it will bolt into the Model A crossmember. Reversing the eyes on the Model T spring will bring it down even more.

You could cut out that Model A crossmember and move it up a few inches and weld it back in, that will lower the ass down a few inches.

 

First of all what look are you going for? It only takes about an hour to mock up the suspension and body to see if it will give you the look you want. Also I would call the frame shop and ask about their exchange policy. Though problems like this can be heartbreaking (I kinda wana cry for you). Just keep in mind there are no problems you cant overcome with Hot Rods. Just take a deep breath and work it out. We are here to help. And maybe rib you a little along the way... Now mock it up and show us some pics. We'll keep you between the navigational beacons.

 

Wow, model a bodies are flat and deuce bodies swoop up at the rear.

I don't get that blunt cut, on the deuce rails just ahead of the wheel wells. If you have a flat frame you might as well contour the rails to the body without stepping them in. Either way, modifying an A body is always easier and is gonna look better than this.

Who built this thing???

 

Frame is still flat no matter where or what spring you mount.

Flat A frames are almost universially Zee'd out back and its very common to "C" 32 frames to get the car lower...and OEM design for a 32 frame is far from flat!
This could be a tangle for the OP so he needs to figure out what he's doing ASAP.
Do a quick mock-up to see where you're at and if you like the stance!

 

The blunt cut "pro street" lookin' thing is the same thing they do with the chassis Brookville roadster sells. I too am not a fan of that style. This chassis design will save you having to cut out the subrails and such, so the kit you bought you won't need as stated above. This is not the way I would handle this sort of deal, but as others have said, mock it all up and see where stuff lands and see if you like it. I can't se that rear end coming down to a level that I would consider acceptable.

Just looking at the picture again before I hit "submit", one possibility I see would be to move the Model A type cross member forward, the run an early Ford rear or the appropriate Pete & Jakes cross spring brackets on a Nine inch or what ever turned around forward of the axle. This would place the spring in front of the suspension and give you at least a fighting chance of getting a realistic ride height. Just my .02...

 

Another quick thought, did the frame builder provide a photograph of what his frame looks like under a mocked up or finished car? I'm looking and it looks like the X-member is pushed way back in the frame as well.

 

Trust me that is the way you want it!! Just cut it off and raise it about 5 inches and you will be good to go!!

 

Is this frame from brookville roadster? I seen in there catalog something like this. I don't get it,will set to high in the back would be my guess. No need for that subrail kit.

 

So the frame is just gonna "end" where it jogs in...it will look that way at any angle unless the rear tire hides it. Sure, this may be easier, but if it were easy, everyone would drive a bitchin hot rod

 

Funny thing about this place,no matter who does a modification to a frame or a body......
Plenty of the guys here know a "better" way to do the same damn thing=their way......
It must be why the term pissing contest was coined.

 

But the influx of options and ideas is what makes the tech aspect of the HAMB so great. I enjoy getting different ways to do something. It does help.

 

the distance from the front x member to where the swaige line starts looks too long ? . I have a 32 wheelbase of 106 inches & the distance on my chassis is 29 Inches , measured from the centre of the front crossmember to where the Swaige line starts . did you have it set up for a 32 ford wheelbase or a model A ? . your Cowl should be about an inch back from the start of the swaige & that is where it should be pinched otherwise your cowl will be on top of the rail . ( which is not bad , just personal preferance ) , you need to Narrow the rear over the Axle for the model a wheel arches & that can be Achieved by Pulling the rails in over the rear Axle . This application looks like mini tubs ? Is that what you were after ? . You need to siT your Body on & your Wheel arch will determine Exactly where your rear Axle is going to be . & at first Glance i would say that the rear spring might be mounted behind your Diff . but as other guys have said , Most probably should have been zeed or stepped as it will be high , without Spring mods . All the best .

 

That frame looks like it's meant for a stock height Model A.

http://www.dagelsstreetrods.com/super_x_crossmember.htm

 

I take it you're building a hiboy style car. If so,that frame just doesn't look right to me. As said many times it will sit really high in the rear plus you will be able to see the indentation part of the frame from just about any angle. I would return it, if you can, and get a stock style 32 frame and go the body subrail route. Take a look at any hiboy style Model A and you'll see what I mean. Good luck

 

Wow, a lot to take in here. Thanks for the feedback, it is all appreciated.

Feeling a little down right now after having waited 3 weeks for this to arrive and realizing immediately it wasn't what I had expected AND, unless someone corrects me, what I had asked for.

This is the last email I sent the company in relation to the spec. Possibly I screwed up but to me this looks almost NOTHING like the frame in the photo.

"The rear will be bobbed and include the A rear crossmember. To be crystal clear, it will be like the frame in this post/thread:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=104922
"

His response was "Yes that one is a little rough but the same idea."

To answer someone's question above. This was not ordered as a pro street frame or using left over parts. It was purpose built to be the base of a 30 highboy.

I am trying to come to terms with the frame I have here and the fact it isn't what I expected. Not sure of the way forward here, will sleep on it but not happy.

The sudden cut and jog is NOTHING like what I was looking for...as subtle as a smack in the face.

 

Could you use "out the back" style spring perches on your rear end? would they work in this situation? (Im actually asking haha) i guess that would alter your wheelbase slightly wouldn't it?

 

I would not be happy with this frame. I would have bought a frame from somebody else.