32 frame newly arrived, is this correct??

With respect, with a crappy frame sitting in my workshop I obviously know that NOW but didn't when I ordered it.

 

it looks to me like where the 32 rail is blunt cut off will actually line up with the front edge of the wheel well so that wont look too bad there if carefully worked a little bit , but as someone above mentioned ,it does look like the center X member is sitting a ways back from the front spring mount x member !! and as far as ride height it does look like that thing will be nose bleed city without a proper kick in the back !!! i know its not what ya were thinking but screw it , kick that thing like 12" out back put a bleed style sweep on the front and position that frame about 4" off the ground and build a kick ass hot rod on top of it !!! or another option that isn't why you ordered a deuce style frame but was done alot on the east coast back in the day is channeling a body over 3/4's of the deuce frame just barely leaving the reveal visible !!

 

I think what happen was the angle of the first pic in that build thread. It does look kinda flat as it goes to the cross member and the "C" notch is hard to see. It's because of the camera angle. A side view would have been better or even a crude drawing with dimensions could have helped. BUT in your defense, they should have known better, since you did use the word "bobbed". Or maybe they weren't familiar with that term.

You can still use it. I'm sure you could find someone to cut and install a kick up. That's really all it needs.

 

We are building a 30 Coupe on 32 Chassis pinched for an A. It has the rear of the frame same as the 32 and we are using the steadfast kit, fitting it now. It is a lot of work to do it this way but it is the look we wanted. We actually have it channeled over the sides about the depth of the bottom body reveal, no small feet so far to get to this point. Maybe you got the JW Rods 32 for an A, I looked at them but didn't like the step in in the rear. Our chassis was built to a roller by Cornhusker Rod and Custom in Nebraska. We are about ready to start welding in the Steadfast kit now. It's up to you, but if you don't like that look then now is the time to change I all I can say. Don't build it if you are unhappy now. View attachment 1950673


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I guess the bit that I am confused about is this. I actually sent them that photo in post #28 and asked them to confirm that would be the style at the rear. They confirmed and yet this is what I have.

I do have the subrail kit from steadfast as I too was about to embark on modifying the rails except I don't need to now with this. the rear kick is on me. I didn't specify one....

 

There's no frame in post #28.

 

It is linked in the post, the link is here:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=104922

 

Someone said a side view would be useful...

 

Why are you talking to us and not the company that built it?

 

I know. No pic in post #28.

 

Wow. Unless you make some changes, you'll be looking down at the road through the windshield.

A good side view of the frame you wanted them to build would have saved the grief, but yours can be fixed. It's not that bad.

 

I reached out to those more knowledgeable to get input PRIOR to talking to the company. Don't let the door hit you on the way out...

 

Your builder called Rolf's frame "kinda rough", huh? I guess that would have been a red flag to me. I too would ask why he didn't deliver a frame with the same style as you requested in your email. If you didn't get what you requested, you should be able to get your money back.

 

Yeah, maybe you do need to calm down before talking to the builder.

 

Sorry but your post was less than constructive/intelligent.

The frame arrived 3 hours ago. It is now past 5PM and I want to be informed when I talk to them in the morning. I am not happy but I am calm. It is what it is..

 

Apologies, I meant the pic in post #28 of THIS thread. The first picture in that link.

 

Its probably set up for spring behind the axle. That would lower its to a nice stance. Measure the distance center to center from the front to the rear crossmember. If its 106" it needs z'd... If its longer by like 4"... You're good to go

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Hit the link in post #28 and Rolf's '30 on '32 rails comes up with a rear rail shot of a '32 frame.

 

Thanks flatout51, unfortunately it is 106" ALTHOUGH I did think the 32 rails WERE suited to spring behind setup.

 

The drastic (and unnecessary) narrowing at the rear bothers me a lot more than the lack of kick up, because it is a lot harder to fix, and if left that way it will look like hell. The kick up is a fairly easy fix, but that narrowing deal would be a HUGE undertaking to change.

You need to ask the builder to exchange it for what you wanted.

"If " you showed him a picture of what you wanted,and got something totally different, It's on the builder, not you. The back of that frame is clearly nothing like Rolf's.

I hope you guys get it worked out.

 

I am no expert but I assume a 32 frame "bobbed" for an A body would just mean the last 12" or so of fram rail would not be there, correct?

I hope he makes it right. It appears you were very clear. Did you mention to him you already had the subrail kit by chance?

 

I agree, the kick to the inside is horrible. Yes, I did send him a photo. The three lines of text included in post #28 are copied verbatim from the email.

I will talk to him this morning. I too hope we can work it out.

 

Good luck wex65.

 

Thanks. I got a little snippy with one or two posters last night and for that I do apologize, it isn't my style. I was just pretty pissed with the situation but with some sleep under my belt I feel better. I have been asked for the company name a couple of times but would rather hold back for now until I see how they handle the situation. Regardless I have decided I will not be using this frame. As some had identified, the narrowing in the rear is not something I asked for, expected or want to work with. It would spoil the side view of a highboy.

The sole objective of this thread wasn't to bad mouth a company or 'bitch' but simply to become better informed as to the situation before talking to the builder. Objective achieved, for me it has been helpful so I thank all that took time to contribute.

I will update once I hear back from the company...

 

I only have had the frame rails pinched for Model A's. The rear kickup is narrowed slightly for the wheel wells but kept the same contour as a 32 frame. That car will sit very high

 

You opened a can of worms with your questions. You'll get a ton of responses about this and that simply because there is more than one way to skin a cat, so to speak.

I think you have plenty to work with and are off to a good start. Mock it up and set the body on it and see where you are at.

Worse case scenario is you have to raise the spring perch up and notch the rails a bit. Or maybe de-arch the spring and run a small notch in the rails.

I like a Hot Rod to sit up a bit in the rear with a nice rake. The slammed look where the tires are taller than the deck lid looks goofy to me.

Get it right because stance is everything...

 

Hope you and the builder can work this out. Sounds like he deliverd on time so maybe you two will get it sorted out. Good luck to you.

 

Good to hear you came to that conclusion WEX. Building these cars is a grind from start to finish, no matter how much fun it is. And, for the most part we are building our dreams. Kinda tough to work that hard and finish something when the foundation is just not what you expected it to be.

As I said earlier, running the spring in front of the axle could have very well saved the too high in the rear thing, but were it me, those cut lines in front of the rear wheels would have bugged me forever. Just let them know you want a traditional highboy '32 frame with the rear horns bobbed accordingly...

 

I really think that frame might work out fine.

Mine has no kick and it uses the Brookville rails with the cut in area at the rear. Using a lowered spring I have about 3 1/2" of suspension and it takes a pretty good bounce to get it to bottom out. I have a Magnum 5" drop axle out front.

Not saying I would drive it to Florida but you should be able to get yours fairly low.

 

Wex,

I'll be real interested to hear how this works out with the frame supplier. I hope it works out well but that frame does look odd for what you have in mind.