You are a lot closer than I originally thought you'd be. I suggest borrowing a real 32 rail and using it to make an EXACT template of the side. Use this when you make your next set. Your current template has goofy front horns and the rear kick is not right either. And getting the reveal to look true is important to the 32 guys as well. If you can get the shape just right, keep the cost low, and produce a quality product, you will sell quite a few.
You have my attention. Like alchemy said, a few things need adjustments but you're certainly in the ballpark.
feel free guys to tell me what needs to change. open to all. and thanks, your comments mean alot. going to work on all the X bracing next week end. the front horns and the kick up in the rear is what was taken off of the blue prints i used. maybee they are not right. do they need to be higher in the rear???
To sell, the rails have to be a dead nuts on replica of the 32. Period. You gotta get them right - reveal and all. Whats up with that front crossmember? It looks super deep. Most are going to want something closer to a model a - or even flat - crossmember. You have my attention. I'm a believer and I'm impressed so far. A little tweaking and you'll be there. Keep us posted. JH
I doubt blueprints will translate well to a 32 frame. They are totally curved in every which way, and don't hold a consistent thickness except for a few feet in the very middle. If you are having them cut from a digital file, your CADD man will probably have fits measuring and translating it to points. But, getting this correct will mean all the difference between "right" and "close".
yes the front cross member is pretty deep and will result in a ride height about 3-4 inches higher than an "A" cross member. That being said I know that that frame is for your personal project and maybe you have a plan for it with a more original higher stance in the front. I agree most guys will ask for a flatter cross member. The front horns look close but for some reason the rear kick-up looks high and the curve over the axle looks sharp. Then again we are only looking at pics and its hard to tell. Have you set an original 32 frame next to it for comparison? I like what you are doing so far and you are very close for a first try. good job.
If you're not using this then you've started way behind the curve: http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatalog/Tech/FrameDiagram1932.pdf My apologies, I should have posted that for you a few days ago to steer you in the right direction. Looking at the drawing of the "original" crossmember it would appear yours is more correct than I first ***umed. Very few people will want that kind of crossmember, but you probably already knew that. Keep it up. Lets see what you can do!
I wish I had an original frame to go by but I dont. I wouldnt even know where to begin trying to find one let alone borrow one. Maybe when I get these 2 done (yah I made 2) I can let someone borrow it to put under their car to check fit up. Thanks for the comments.
I have to hand it to ya Homemadehotrod! Your frames have moved from your head to reality, and the grief you took from the guys along way!! I have been following your thread without comment, just hoping that your pictures would show up,,,,,and the frame looks pretty good! HAMBers are tough, aren't they? Good luck to you. Stay at it, I'll by one in the fall
First let me tell 'Atta Boy!" So far so good seeing a custom frame done your way and afforable in this day and age of rapid inflation. Not that I like the "B" word, Thom Taylor and Boyd did smooth side rails on a number of cars that won plenty of awards and they were aplauded for being different-That being said, Network here on the H.A.M.B. I'm sure that seeing what you are acomplishing someone would allow you to have a side rail to copy, Heck if I lived closer I'd lend you one of mine. The reveal is important as it acts as a fender line as well,some people doing a fendered car may want that,although 34 Ford trucks use a smooth side rail I guess I'd prefer a reveal. Looking forward to seeing the progress.
the website for wescotts that shows the drawing for the 32 frame is the exact print that i used to cut out the sides and the front cross member.
After taking a bull **** from many people here, your off to a good start. Congrats on that! Now keep going, as I will need one soon. Good luck. Flattyv8
Man, that's a lot closer than I thought you'd get on the first try. You're so close I think, if I were you, I'd go ahead and buy a set of ASC rails to use for a referance and to set up your jig properly etc... You wouldn't have any trouble selling them at a swap meet in the spring and getting back most ifnot all of what they cost you, especially if you throw a K member and a couple cross members in it. I think it would be money well spent. You could call it R&D, lol. I really like where you're headed with this and if you could get a little but closer to a oem '32 look I'll deffinatly be interested in meeting you sometime in the hopefuly not too distant future. As for the naysayer's, you have to have a thick skin around here. I don't think anyone on here wants you to fail. But you can't fault them for giving it to you srtaight.
You are only about 14 miles from Marshall, where my friend Doug Mosch, who is a life long Deuce guy, has his business, Doug's Auto and Truck Parts. http://dougsautoandtruck.com/ The next time you are in Marshall, stop by and see him and tell him what you are trying to do. He might have a frame you could trace. The constructive criticism may be hard to hear sometimes but there is a wealth of experience and knowledge here that you won't find anywhere else. There is always skeptism on here until you back up what you post. And you certainly have done that, so keep the faith.
I have a set of loose American stamping rails up at Gribbles in Watertown,SD but Marshall is quite a bit closer if Doug has some.
If you cant come up with a real 32 frame to go by , maybe if you bought a set of stamped 32 rails with the reveal that were don't right , you could use them to go by . Just saying , I think you are doing a good job so far . Keep up the good work , you are also doing a good job of letting the negative criticism roll right off your back . Everybody has to start somewhere , nobody was born a master in the trades . We can all learn a new lesson everyday to make us better , you cant do any better that ask what people want . Personally , I want to know about 33/34 frames . In the future maybe ????
Beautifull job, If you use bottom view to cut side wall, when you install on table and you made curve, the lenght will change?
i grew up in porter mn, just 23 miles west of marshall, and usualy go through or into marshall quite a bit. maybee ill give doug a call and set up something with him. my brother in law lives on the SD border 19-C.!!! maybe i could talk you into letting me borrow your frame rails from watertown. i know he goes there quite a bit to sell cattle. i know he would pick them up for me. thanks again every one for all the compliments.
heres another question for you guys. im sure if this thing works out, there is going to be 1 or 2 guys that are going to want their frame pinched, is it as easy as putting spacers in the jig to get the front horns to pull in or is it more than that????
for a stock 32 frame you will need to relief cut the frame to allow it to pull in at the cowl. The way you are building them I think it would be easier to set your jig up to fit the model a cowl width. If you do a search there are some very good threads on pinching. Have you got any further with the reveal on the sides o fthe rail? I am very interested. I think you have everyones attention. Great work so far.
Westcott's site also has dimensions for a Model A on 32 rails. Pinching the rails for a narrowed cowl will shorten the overall length, but not by much. Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
i think i am going to have to find some other way to get the reveal. one of the guys at work that was helping me got pissed off and quit today. i dont know anything about die making.i dont know if i can cut the rails and form the reveal by hand and get it to look the way it need to. anyone have any suggestions
+2. This is a must for building a good frame jig, also I learned along time ago, do not paint anything until the the whole car has been ***embled one time first. Just my 2cents.
Maybe not much help, but Flthd31 worked out a pretty slick reveal without the use of a die: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=671187 Its been a few years, still one of my favorite threads.
Please do not think I am bashing you, as it looks like you are able to do some decent work, however before you worry about the reveal, you need to spend some more time on correct shape. The reason that a lot of us use stamped rails is, they are correct, for the amount of work and man hours, it just makes sense to use stamped rails to start with. Truthfully, nothing about the frame in your pics looks like a 32 frame, not trying to discourage you, just being honest. If I can be of any help to you let me know. Good luck
OK Then. What needs to change. keep in mind this was my first try. every one else can comment also. i want to do them right so feel free.
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