32 Guys .... does this look right?

I need some help. I am trying to get my engine and ****** mounts set in my 32 frame and am having a hell of a time trying to decide if it is in the right place. I am using an original frame, 59ab, 39 ******, 38 X member, 48 F1 steering box and Tardell motor mounts. I have pulled most of my measurements off the HAMB on various threads as well as the Wescott frame diagram and a few call to Vaphead.

The front mount are from Tardel and are mounted as low as they go. They are mounted 6" back from the center of the front spring. The firewall's large mounting hole is 32" from the spring center.
The engine has about a one or two degree rearward rake to get it under the firewall. There will still need to be a slight hump in the toe board for the ******. I wonder if the engine should be level and the toe board flat?

Anyway.... I just got a set of Reds headers for a 32 frame with a F1 box and they don't come close to fitting. I would have to move the engine back about 4" for them to fit. So I am really scratching my head as to where this thing should be. Any help will be greatly appreciated!

 

If it was me, I'd set up a radiator and work back from there, factoring the fan setup you plan to use etc. You know the thing has to clear the firewall, but make sure there's fan room as well. Also factor in ch***is rake so you can set the carbs level then that dictates the ****** mount. Be careful trusting measurements of plans and so forth. Nothing beats test fiting and tacking. Don't know if this is what you're after but I hope it helps.

 

I have the radiator and have plenty of room for the fan on generator mount but the fan below generator mount is tight. I am hoping some one can grab a tape measure and check theirs. I know Vaphead used the Reds headers with no problems so I want to verify some of this before I give them a call.

 

I ran into the same problem with the headers....ended up sending them back and getting the center dump set. Although, I have an A on 32 rails.

 

I have a 59A sitting in my 5W. It is on it's original mounts all around. It has more clearance to the firewall. If you would like, I would take pics of the firewall to engine fit and the angle of the engine vs. the frame. Anything else ,ask that too.

I am runniing headers and a 32 box. The tube by the box is tight as it can be. It would never live that way if it was a hemi. The water cooled exhaust is the only thing that lets the steering box survive. Header paint does not burn off either!

 

I have the same set up as you but with a 32 k-member. My motor is much father forward. I have to use a single lower pulley because a double would hit.

I have motor mounts like yours and they are against the front cross member and sit about a 1/2" down in the frame.

Maybe this pic will help. My motor mounts are not in yet but you can see that the water pump necks are just sitting on the front cross member.

 

I also have those reds headers and they dont work unless you cut the flange off the f1 box and slide it through the frame some. Then weld on the vern tardel flange.

 

That is what I was afraid of. If either of you could give me a measurement for where your motor mounts are that would be great. Either from the big firewall mount hole or the center of the front spring. I have an A front cross member too but it is in the stock location.

 

bttt

 

From the center of the firewall mount big hole to the centerline of the motor mount is 26 3/8" measured along top of the frame.

If you can you would probly be better off running your motor father back for better fan clearence.

 

BTTT for the weekday crowd.

 

Since you are not running a stock K member and are able to move the engine around most anywhere, here are some items I think you should look out for.

- water pump to lower rad outlet orientation
- lower pulley to crossmember clearance
- lower pulley to tierod clearance

If you're gonna run a fan off your regulator you will probably have plenty of clearance and room to play up there.

Personally I would get it low enough so I could use a flat floorboard over the bellhousing.

When I put an F-1 box into a 32 I used the cut off flange of the stock 32 box, and kept the centerline of the wormshaft like stock. I think you have your box too far inboard. Do you have a stock 32 flange you can use?

 

I do not have a stock box. I may end up looking for one. I think I should move the engine ahead a bit to get a flat toe board like you said. I would rather run the fan in the center of the radiator with the mount that bolts on below the generator. It has a stock A front cross member in it and it looks like I will have to move the radiator mounting holes forward a bit to get the radiator in the correct spot. The thing that keeps making me scratch my head is that it appears to be in the right spot compared to some other cars that people have given me measurements for. I did have the ****** a little lower at first but once I put the Tardel mounts in I had to raise it to try to level of the engine. It still has a bit of a rearward rake and I don't know if it should be level or if the 2 degree slope is ok?

 

Here is a pic that kinda shows the relationship of the rear exhaust port with the box. The headers I got from reds look like they are made so the exhaust port should be behind the box not right on top of it but then I would be IN the firewall if I moved the engine back. I am starting to think I should just get a stock K member.

 

The tudor I did had a stock K-member and 38 trans. The bottom of the water pump foot was about even with the top of the framerail. We used a Walker radiator and had a bad misalignment with the bottom outlets. If you're using a Walker you may want to get the rad mounted before you finalize the motor mounts.

If you can't find a 32 steering box to cannibalize, I think you could make your own flange easily, just make sure the centerline of the box lines up nice with your firewall notch. Then you should have more clearance for your headers. I actually think a F-100 box would give better header clearance, but I don't like the bulky pitman arm as much as the F-1's.

I used some old used headers off of Ebay (cheap) and modified the last half of the left side. You might need to modify yours too.

 

Are you ever going to run a stock hood or set it up in case, if so mount the radiator with shell and firewall, set the grill and radiator will they go when the hood is gapped correctly, then you know where you radiator is and start back from the, to get it right where you want it you may have to do some addotional mock up with your fan, you can push the motor up so you have the fan set back off the ardiator a bit, maybe an inch or so, then just make sure that you are clearanced between the motor and the firewall, I have about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inche between my intake manifold and the firewall.

 

I am going to run a hood. The problem I have as far as setting that up is I won't have my body untill April and (correct me if I'm wrong) the hood mount to the body and not the firewall. I only have between a 1/2 and a 1/4 inch at the intake. So it is close but if I move it ahead a little I can get a flat toe board too.

BTW what are you running for a fan setup on yours?

 

The body does help for setting up the hood, my fan bracket is bolted back on my roadster know, It's a custom made mount which I'm going to make another one for the sedan I'm putting together, I run a Evans intake and it doesn't have a fan or generator provision so that's why it's a homemade bracket, then I use an oil filled fan pulley mounted to that. Mine is back apart right now but you could have somebody measure a car that has a hood on it now and that may help to keep you going. just make sure if somebody measures for you that you are both on the same page otherwise it would **** once it's time for a hood.

 

I would run the x-member before a k-member unless you are going to use an unsplit wishbone. x-member is going to be stronger.....and cheaper.

 

If you have your firewall, you don't need to wait for a body to "rough in" the hood and grille. The top of the firewall has two holes for the center hinge bracket. Bolt on the bracket and that should give you the back edge, and the hood welting actually goes on the firewall too. Then you can get the distance for the grille and radiator from there.

You stated you had an A front crossmember. If it is the year with the high radiator mounting pads you may need to cut them out and lower them for a proper fit. The high ones make the grille too high for the 32 hood.

 

You can kinda make out the radiator mounting holes in these two pics can you tell which I have? They are about flush with the top of the frame.

 

I am going to run an unsplit wishbone but will be building the ball mount as a part of the ****** crossmember.

 

Hey Eyeball, if generic headers dont fit, why don't ya have a go at makin' your own set of headers. I gave it a go and surprised myslef...they came out sano.

Plus, you can brag to your mates that ya fabbed 'em up yaself !! Prob be cheaper too!!

Whaddya say??

Rat

 

I'm sure I will have to do that. The reason I originaly ordered up the Reds was I was hoping that they might help me place the motor hahaha ... oh well.

 

I think those are the high ones, sorry. Don't paint anything until you can verify for sure the fit of your hood. You may need to lower those pads.

 

I took and ground off the F1 flange ala Tardel and made a new one. I will have to wait to set the column angle once I get the body. I still have header issues. I could dimple the header and make it work with the engine sitting where it is now but I need to move it ahead about 1/2 inch. The intake and right head are about 1/16 inch from the firewall so I think I will need a bit more breathing room. ​

Can someone give me the spring center to the center of the motor mount measurement? I thought I remember it being 6" but would like someone to confirm that. Thanks.​

 

I did grind about 1/4" of filler off the top of them now and they set well below the top of the frame rail. So I may be OK.