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Hot Rods 32 Pickup Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 2935ford, Jul 12, 2012.

  1. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,849

    2935ford
    Member

    Moving along....
    here's my gen and fan combo from the stock 59A.
    I'll convert the gen to 12v.

    Finished up my front brakes. Have had the drums turned with lots of meat on them yet.
    Just waiting on the machine shop to size the new inner bearings to the spindles for the F100 hubs to put it all together.
     

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  2. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    is your radiator in the stock 32 position? I think you will find that a 59A setup puts the fan inside the radiator core..yep, just measured it on one I'm doing at the moment. The fan pulley Is only an inch and a half from the core.. It looks like the fan blades come forward more than that in your photo. Maybe a fan on the generator? The problem then can be that the blades hit the top radiator outlets.. 32 mechanical fans can be an arse ache!
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2012
  3. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,849

    2935ford
    Member

    lowsquire....thanks.
    My rad in the stock position......hmmmm.....it needs to be close but I'm not that far yet but will be soon.

    Once I get the old pulley off and the double on and get my mounts in I can then get rid of the engine hoist, install my intake, add the gen and fan, place the cab back on and then line up the rad then I'll know.

    Shhhhhh, if worst comes to worst.....I'll use an electric fan........
     
  4. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    no you wont!! we'll work out a solution. nothing worse than an elec fan on a flathead powered car in my eyes...
    Im doing exactly the same setup next week, so Ill post up how I go in my build thread.Its doable.
     
  5. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,849

    2935ford
    Member

    lowsquire .....Thought that would get your attention!

    Ok....look forward to it. Can't be the first time it's ever been done!
     
  6. HotRodMicky
    Joined: Oct 14, 2001
    Posts: 1,788

    HotRodMicky
    Member

    Yep!
     
  7. cadillacoffin
    Joined: May 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,128

    cadillacoffin
    Member

  8. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,849

    2935ford
    Member

    Thanks cadillacoffin.

    Well now!
    I removed the single crank pulley and attempted to put the double stock 59A pulley on....ha! That was an effort of futility.

    The thought plickens!
    My problem...I have a later Merc crank that won't allow the pulley to slip inside the pan/cam cover like the stock one does.
    I don't want to pullt the pan and do all that if I can avoid it!
    Can I trim the pulley?

    As I said this engine was setup to go in my AV8 roadster.
     

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  9. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    Ah shit. That is a sleeve on the later crank. It has to come off, to fit the early pulley which has an integral seal sleeve. You will have to drop the sump.
     
  10. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,849

    2935ford
    Member

    You mean part #6359 in the drawing?
    Just the pan or do I have to loosen the mains and rods to get it off the crank snout?
     

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  11. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    I have got one off with the crank in place by carefully grinding a notch into it and tapping it off with a cold chisel. It's a press fit, but not that tight, so give that a go first
     
  12. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,849

    2935ford
    Member

    In my post #501 the engine on the left....I don't see how I get a notch in it when it is this flush to the block and pan?
     
  13. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,849

    2935ford
    Member

    So here is the culprit. This what I have to get at and remove.
    Looks like I'll be pulling a pan.....ugh!!!!!!!
     

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  14. drmrman
    Joined: Nov 20, 2011
    Posts: 222

    drmrman
    Member
    from new Jersey

    WOOOHOOOO! 32 PU's unite!
     
  15. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    Yup... Pan off. No big deal .hopefully it's not too tight on there, and you can carefully tap it off. It's tricky, but persevere and you'll get it off without damaging the timing cover side of the rope seal.or you can use the opportunity to change to a full circle seal if you wish.
     
  16. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,849

    2935ford
    Member

    I knew you were going to say that......
    well, wish me luck.
    I'm going to knock the one off the old crank I have first to see how tough.....
    I also need to be careful of that oil slinger.

    Now that I think of it...Walt my have put on the full circle seal.
     
  17. HotRodMicky
    Joined: Oct 14, 2001
    Posts: 1,788

    HotRodMicky
    Member

    Why don`t you just modify the early crank pulley?

    Just cut it down.Measure a late sleeve for the length...

    Easier then take everything apart and try to get the sleeve off....
     
  18. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,849

    2935ford
    Member

    Thanks HotRodMickey....that was one questions I was wondering. The end of the early pulley sleeve has grooves (pictured) that appear to maybe help push any oil back into the motor....if I cut that off?????
     

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  19. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,849

    2935ford
    Member

    Well, my observations.

    I was concerned about cutting the pulley to length thinking I would be destroying the grooves on the cut side of the pulley.
    Now that appears not to be a concern as I have discovered, the crank sleeve also has those grooves and it is staying on the crank. The effect is tha same.

    It appears very possible to me that the pulley can be cut to length w/o any ill affects.

    The single pulley I just removed from the engine was a cut down from an original double pulley.

    This seems the easiest solution to accomplish what I need.

    Anyone think otherwise?
     
  20. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,849

    2935ford
    Member

    Anybody know the actual length of the crank sleeve?
     
  21. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,849

    2935ford
    Member

    Here's the 8BA pulley spacer sleeve w/grooves I need the length of.
     

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  22. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,849

    2935ford
    Member

    Ok, got my answer on why you don't want to trim the back of the double pulley.
    At both ends of the pulley shaft (front and back) for about an inch in these areas fit the cranckshaft snout very snug but in between these two surfaces it is not a snug fit. So if you cut the back off you lose that one inch snug fit leaving only the front pulley to suppoet both.....not good. Also in that loose area is where the keyway will sit. Again not a good fit.

    Which takes me back to removing the pan and the spacer sleeve to install the double pulley correctly.
     
  23. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,849

    2935ford
    Member

    Alright, I'm still thinking about removing this crankshaft spacer sleeve.
    I'm trying to do this w/o getting into having to remove the pan and I've come up with this idea.

    If I remove the cam cover....I should have enough room to weld this piece on. Then use my puller and with any kind of luck.....it comes off.
     

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  24. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    Just pull the pan AND the cam cover, and tap it off! all this farting around drawing things and posting them on here..you could have had it off four times over. stop thinking...start doing! sheesh!
     
  25. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,849

    2935ford
    Member

    lowsquire.....the reason for this is I have been told by the engine builder that these don't necessarily come off that easy. He tells me they are cold pressed on and are tough to come off.
    Sorry for being so anal about it!
     
  26. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    Yes they can be tight, but mainly if they have never been removed before. If you weld to it you will likely destroy the ropeseal from heat anyway .. Meaning pan off ! I just think it's worth trying first. Sorry if I sound harsh. Trying to help.
     
  27. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,849

    2935ford
    Member

    lowsquire....I know you are and I appreciate it.
    Sometimes I overthink things when I am not able to do something right away.

    The spacer has not been off the crank....so, I expect it to give me all the trouble it can!
     
  28. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,849

    2935ford
    Member

    Ok

    There it is. Now to button everything back up.
     

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  29. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    Woo hoo!
    was it super tight?
     
  30. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,849

    2935ford
    Member

    Yes, I pounded on it for a good 15 mins. At first it wouldn't budge but I gave it a couple of really hard smacks and I saw it move. It fought me all the way off.

    I just hope I can seal up the front and rear and pan again!

    I don't like how the two sides of the gasket came off the rails of the block at the very back. They were stuck on there pretty good.
     

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