I started work on my 33 cab yesterday. I am removing the welded firewall so I can use a 32 firewall. I got the firewall mostly removed, but need to see what the subrails are supposed to look like at the front. Does anyone have a 32 cab loose that they could take a picture of the inside of the cowl, specifically the floor subrail? Thanks, Neal
Sorry, cant help ya much. But do you already have a 32 firewall? If not, were you gonna get one? Thank you Nick
[ QUOTE ] Sorry, cant help ya much. But do you already have a 32 firewall? If not, were you gonna get one? Thank you Nick [/ QUOTE ] Nick - My brother bought a 32 chassis that had a firewall attached. Since he is building a Model A, I talked him out of the firewall. Neal
Also make sure you double the hood-rest lip up with a thicker piece spotwelded to the under side. Where the 34 firewall attached originally. Since the 32 has the firewall as the main alignment point, you need to have the body fit exactly to it. You may need a pic of this too to get what I mean. And don't forget the rubber gasket too. alchemy
Anybody??? I guess I also need a pic of the edge of the cowl that sits on the firewall as well as the brackets riveted to the bottom that bolt to the frame. Thanks, Neal
I took a few pics for ya. I hope they are what you need and want. There are more here.... 32 P/U album
Nealin, I can take a pic from the outside 0n my 32 pu for you maybe kev can show me how to post it,I'll see what I can do.--TV
This is exactly what I need as well. I have a cab with the floor cross members cut out. Most of the side rails(called sub rails?) are there except at the front and rear. Tommy do you have any pictures of the inside rear of the cab? Is there a cross member there, or does it mount to the frame similar to the front? Thanks for the post Nealin! Thanks for the pictures Tommy, they will help alot!
Since you won't have roll up glass, I'd sure like to buy the bolt in metal glass channel in the doors. If you still have them.
as you can see there is no front crossmember channel. The one in the center of the door opening is where the front of the seat would be. The floor opening behind that channel is where the gas tank/seat platform (32 only) goes. The area from the back of the cab up to the back of the door opening is another channel from side to side. There is about a 6" vertical partition on top of the rear channel running side to side that forms a compartment behind the seat. 33-34 floors are different. The 33-34 pickup cabs should have a seat riser. I'm not certain if the big truck cabs had a seat riser or not. The subrails take 3/4" plywood perfectly. The overall depth would be about 7/8" including the lip that the plywood sits on. There are 6 oak body mount blocks that sit on top of the frame. The body bolts go through these blocks. The subrails go over them so the rails actually don't sit on the frame. You can see the space between the frame and the bottom of the subrails. The wood block can be seen sitting on the frame. I hope I didn't confuse anybody.
Thanks for the pics Tommy. I have a couple of questions. How is area 1 closed off from the outside? Is it just the floorboard that covers that area? Is the piece in area 2 the spot welded 2nd layer that Alchemy spoke of? Is it double thickness around the entire perimeter of the cowl where it mates with the firewall?
More questions. Is this bracket available repro? Is it rivited to the body? Does it bolt down to the frame using a spring?
[ QUOTE ] Since you won't have roll up glass, I'd sure like to buy the bolt in metal glass channel in the doors. If you still have them. [/ QUOTE ] Tommy - The cutoff door on my p/u came that way from Mild Mitch. It was completely gutted, not much more than a skin. I do have a pair of doors that have not been cut...yet. I think they are complete, but haven't looked at them that closely to know if the track is in there. The earthquake made quite a mess of my parts stash, so I will be cleaning up the upstairs of my shop this weekend. The doors are up there, so I will take a look and let you know. Neal
[ QUOTE ] Tommy - The cutoff door on my p/u came that way from Mild Mitch. It was completely gutted, not much more than a skin. [/ QUOTE ] that's 'cause he sent me the rest where would we be without his Mildness And what if our rods are in one place at the same time and our parts fly off and start dancing to Hava Naghila Hava to celebrate the end of the diaspora?
[ QUOTE ] Thanks for the pics Tommy. I have a couple of questions. How is area 1 closed off from the outside? Is it just the floorboard that covers that area? Is the piece in area 2 the spot welded 2nd layer that Alchemy spoke of? Is it double thickness around the entire perimeter of the cowl where it mates with the firewall? [/ QUOTE ] Yes that's how I see it. The toe board goes over close to the cowl. The cardboard "kick panel" goes between the door frame and the cowl/firewall lip sealing off this area. The extra metal clip you asked about in the other picture is there to hold the front edge of the kick panel. I think the kick panel just slides behind that clip and is screwed to the door frame. The 32 cowl has a reinforcing channel (second layer) that runs the full length of the cowl lip from rivited hold down bracket to hold down bracket. Your 33 like this 34 may have the reinforcing channel. If it doesn't you may be able to leave the firewall where it is spot welded to the cowl. It would then become the missing channel. If that area is 3 layers thick then you have the reinforcing channel. Starting from the outside in (32)... 1 cowl sheet metal, 2 reinforcing sheet metal channel, 3 rubber firewall gasket and then the 4 the firewall. They all nest together. The two cast clips on the 32 cowl just bolt through the dimpled (angled) bolt holes at the edge of the frame. The slight angle pulls the cowl down and in, which seals it to the rubber gasket. Brookville or Wescott may have the cast hold down clips. Most of the glass bodys just fudged this area.
Tommy - Thanks for the additional info. The 33 firewall makes up the second layer at the cowl. I just cut the firewall off flush with the cowl, so I should be able to use that as the reinforcing layer, except for the foot or so that I already reamoved I guess I can spot weld a piece back in there. Glad I found out before I cut the whole thing out. Are the cast/forged cowl to frame brackets riveted to the cowl? Neal
Yes and the rivits are peened over rather crudely on the outside. It looks like they were staked several times with a center punch. The rivits seem to be countersunk into the brackets on the inside for a smooth surface.
The'33-4 firewall has stamped brackets at the bottom that look like they could be cut off and used as functional replacements for the '32 body. If that doesn't work, call Brookfield--their bodies have this part. I've got a '32 pickup with 1933 cab awaiting firewall transplant inside where I can get at it, and most of a '32 cab and floor rails under my front porch where I can probably get at them this weekend. We seem to own about the same collection of scrap iron still... Just looking at the floor in the '33 cab, I think all you really need to do is to cut a bit off the front of the subrails where the floor brackets on the firewall end. The late cabs were used with the '32 tank on big trucks, and the flooring in mine even has those holes pre-drilled.
I don't know how acurate you want to get but, here's a close up of a 32 roadster P/U. (It looks like he added some hood welting that doesn't belong there.)
[ QUOTE ] I don't know how acurate you want to get but, here's a close up of a 32 roadster P/U. (It looks like he added some hood welting that doesn't belong there.) [/ QUOTE ] I am going to try to get the proportions correct, but the details are so different, I am going to do my own version using a mix of Ford parts. There is a guy I met that has an unrestored 32 rpu. His dad bought it in the 50's and he drove it to HS in the 60's. It has been sitting in the little one car garage behind his mom's house since the 70's. It was only a couple of miles from where I work. I went and took a bunch of pictures and measurements for reference. He has since moved the truck to his house in Southern CA. You never know what is still hiding just around the corner. Neal I just looked up his photo album. His dad got the rpu in 1940. There are some neat old pics and he added quite a few new detail pics since I last looked. Look here.
Having been raised on the east coast and reading all the California magazines, I finally flew out to the L.A. Roadster show several years ago. My buddies that had gone told me it was the Mecca for old hot rods. The year I went, there were TWO 32 RPUs there. The one above before it was rodded and another one. I bought a set of chromed 40 backing plates for 50 bucks. I was convinced.
[ QUOTE ] you gonna get that thing ready for the next rattlecan nats? tp aka zibo [/ QUOTE ] That is the goal, but it may be 2005...life keeps gettin in the way. I have made some real progress in the last month, but it is getting put on the back burner for a while I might tow it there in 2004 if it don't run Neal
Neal, kind of late on this but I can make you a template of those cowl feet that you want and shoot it over to you if you want to fab a set. I still think I have your address. PM me Gordon
[ QUOTE ] Neal, kind of late on this but I can make you a template of those cowl feet that you want and shoot it over to you if you want to fab a set. I still think I have your address. PM me Gordon [/ QUOTE ] Gordon - That would be great. After finding out that Brookvilles are $65 and they are bronze castings, I would rather make my own. I sent you a PM with my address just in case. Thanks, Neal
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