Projects 32 roadster

I have a 32 roadster complete and original. I would like to lower the car but I do not want to modify the frame or body at all. I also want to keep the original rearend and and flathead v8. How can I go out doing this?

 

Different springs. Try Posie's...Hummelstown, PA. Sorry but I don't have their phone number handy.

 

Thanks I will call them in the mornings.
I am also looking the the rear corners. Is possible to just get the corner or do I have to get the whole rear corner panel

 

Someone in Phoenix makes some corner patch panels. I would call SoCal Phoenix and get a contact number.

 

So thats how they used to look! Nice.

 

For the corners, see post 3 on this thread;

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=827968

For the lowering, check out this one;

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=733180

 

Change the springs reversed eye front and rear... yeah like he said^^^^^

 

Great reference for the original suspension conversion to lower the deuce!

 

If it still has mechanical brakes you need to watch and be sure that whatever method you use to lower the front doesn't mess up the braking geometry.

 

It looks like you have already tried deflating the tires! Just kidding.

How about 16" wheels?

 

Lol the front tubes hold rear the rear dont, I am actually on the hunt for 16 .

 

Yes it is exactly how it was 82 years ago, I already know I gotta ether modify the mmechanical brake or convert to hydraulic brakes. Most llikely I will get a second set of mechanical brakes and modify them, mainly b.c hydraulic conversation is a little out of my budget right now

 

Good info right here.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=733180

 

That picture looks Photoshopped.

 

I thought the same thing when I saw it. Maybe an optical delusion.

 

I'm pretty sure it's not photoshopped. The tires are flat, the shadows match.

 

What is "b.c hydraulic conversion"?

Charlie Stephens

 

What benefit would I have In doing that

 

Because hydraulic conversion

 

Does anyone know how hard it would be to modify the mechanical brakes to work with a drop

 

Thanks for the update. It is hard for some of us old guys to keep up with the language.

Charlie Stephens

 

Word.

 

Remember when you go to the 16 inch wheels (I ***ume Ford or Kelsey wires) with 600X16 tires you will have to let the air out of the tires before you put them in the fender wells. Just carry a tire pump. Another solution might be smaller tires for the spares. Please don't try to make the wells wider. For your info, I like the original 18's.

Charlie Stephens

 

Thank for the information, I am actually most likely going to go fenderless as the fenders need some loving.

 

Be careful you don't ruin it's value. Original '32 roadsters are worth a lot more than rodded ones. All these modifications are going to drop it's value a lot. Looks like you'd be better off restoring it to factory spec. An authentic top restored roadster is worth over $100K and going up all the time. A traditional fenderless rod maybe half that. There are plenty of 32 roadster hot rods out there. 100% original 32 roadsters are very rare and therefore worth a lot. And don't replace original parts with new reproductions just because they're more shiney. You'll reduce it's value.
Ed

 

Everything I am doing is completely reversible, I wouldn't do if it wasn't reversible. I have no intention of ever selling the car as once my father p***es away it will be the only thing left of his. My first memory is me and my dad working on The car.

 

I have seen a modification to the backing plate to use hydraulic cylinders in the 32 backing plates. I think they were mounted in the bottom and replaced the wedge. My 34 would not stop with the mechanicals untill I resurfaced the ramps that the shoe wheels ran on. You might check them for wear. The 34 stopped great once everything was in order. The third idea is floaters. They were to allow the brakes to work as self energizing brakes. I have not seen them advertized for a while but check the Model A crowd.The mechanical brake lever bell cranks would need to be raised on the perch bolts to be used with a dropped axle. The perch bolts are somewhat expensive and hard to get out. You will have them out anyway if you go to the dropped axle. They pull a lot easier than pushed. I made a puller that worked great. If you search my old threads you may find it. If you screw up the threads pushing on them, I offer a rethreading service really cheap.

 

Thank you for the information, I am gonna try and get a second set of brakes for the car and modify them to work with the drop. The brake as of now work perfectly, supposedly my dad something to the brakes to get them to stop better.

 

OG32, My first thought was, "How can a guy with a $60-80K '32 Roadster not afford hyd brakes?" I kept reading & learned that you will inherit this from your Father. You will have the double responsibility of being the caretaker of the most significant Ford in history and of your Fathers legacy. How does your Father feel about you "Hot Rodding" his car? It appears there are items that need maintenance and touch up that you could do while learning about "Our most beloved Ford". Get the Early Ford Club book on the '32 Ford, 2 volumes that will tell you how they were when new. I might sound like a restorer, but trust me I'm not. I've cut up & modified my share, but I've never had the opportunity to own a nice car that my Father built. There are a lot of "Rat Rodders" on here (that's OK, they call me a "Gold Chainer") that would say, "It's your car, cut it up". I'm all for personal expression, but you have something pretty special, Take care of it. That said, period speed equipment and modifications are tolerated by restorers and admired by Hot Rodders and it's not likely that your car was Herbert Hoovers personal estate car,