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Technical '32 Suspension Question

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by loosewheel, Apr 4, 2019.

  1. I need to lift the rear of my little pickup about a 1/2" for a little more suspension travel, even a 1/4" would help. I'm running an original '32 Chassis, the original '32 rear spring crossmember with Posie '40 Ford front springs. Speedway sells a 1/4" arched spacer for a Model A rear spring, but I cant find one for a '32. Can I just make a 1/2 block and install it between the spring and crossmember or will it need to be arched to the shape of the spring?
    Any advise would be great....
     
  2. Happydaze
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,227

    Happydaze
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    On a '32 the crossmember and spring are pretty flat for a few inches either side of the centerline in which case i'd suggest a simple block would be fine. Or you could shape the block to match. Aluminium or even hardwood would shape readily or cut easily enough in a bandsaw.

    Chris
     
    loosewheel likes this.
  3. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,279

    F&J
    Member

    I made mine from 2 pieces of 1/4 or 3/8 steel. Then you can arch each piece easy with a hammer . Then weld the edges in a few spots to keep them together.

    But you also need a bolt head at the top of the spacer to fit into the center hole of the crossmember, and you need a recessed hole on the underside of the spacer to sit on the spring pack bolt head.

    Before I welded them together, I welded a bolt for the centerpin, from the underside of the top plate. Where I welded, was in a chamfered hole on the underside, and the chamfer is for a place for that weld. Then grind flush.

    Then drill a hole on the lower plate to sit on your spring pack bolt, before welding both spacers together.
    .
     
    HemiDeuce, jimgoetz, RICH B and 3 others like this.
  4. That pin/hole detail is really important.
     
    HemiDeuce, WB69 and loosewheel like this.
  5. What the last 2 post said, done it many times without and issues^^^^^^
     
    loosewheel likes this.
  6. Thanks for the input, I'll be doing that this weekend!
     
  7. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,936

    LM14
    Member Emeritus
    from Iowa

    Why not just use a longer bolt and bolt the spacer to the leaf stack? Much simpler. drill a straight hole thru the spacer and put in the longer bolt, done. You can buy leaf spring spacers from most suppliers. Not a big deal to find.
    SPark
     
  8. xix32
    Joined: Jun 12, 2008
    Posts: 607

    xix32
    Member

    The bottom of the rear crossmember is basically flat, the top of the spring has a slight curve. That is so you can adjust for any tilt the chassis might have by tightening one side or the other of the "U" bolts that hold the spring in place.
    That is why flat spacer blocks would work just fine. The center bolt would have to pass through the whole stack, and key into the crossmember, to keep the spring centered in the crossmember.
     
  9. jimgoetz
    Joined: Sep 6, 2013
    Posts: 517

    jimgoetz
    Member

    To do it this way you have to take the spring apart. To do that in any kind of even halfway safe way you almost always have to have it off the car. Do what F&J said it works and is easy.
     
  10. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,936

    LM14
    Member Emeritus
    from Iowa

    All you have to do is put a C-clamp on the spring stack on each side of the center bolt with enough room between them for your plates, remove the bolt, add the plates and longer bolt and tighten it back up. Not that big of a deal to me.
    SPark
     
    deucemac, dwollam and Just Gary like this.
  11. jimgoetz
    Joined: Sep 6, 2013
    Posts: 517

    jimgoetz
    Member

    Just tough to do with it in the car. I tried it on my car and couldn't get it high enough to replace the bolt without taking most of my suspension apart. I just put a spacer on top of the spring. I've had a lot springs apart and I agree it's not a big deal, just harder to do on the car.
     

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