On a couple of our cars we have used original 32 tanks that had the bottoms rotted out so we just cut the bottom out of them and make a new bottom out of stainless. We find that we have better luck getting welded seams to seal better when we use stainless than regular carbon steel sheet metal. Another option that I have done before to cover a dented original 32 tank is to find another rotten 32 tank and cut the whole bottom off of it and make a cover out of it. Cut off the neck from the cover to fit over the dented tank and after sandwiching them together, you'll have about a half inch between them where it doesn't fit tightly. Slide the tank(s) onto the frame rail so the lip for the top cover lays on top of the rails and the lip for the tank itself is beneath the rail. This way, you can't tell it's a cover by looking at it.
Good idea regarding you tube. I've learned a lot doing just that. Hey Jim, did you ever get any use out of that antique evans intake ? Hope you were happy with it !
If you're thinking about buying a different tank, you might as well try to fix that one. If you try to fix it and don't succeed, at least you have gained experience.
Before you shoot the tank repair video, make sure you have someone hold your beer....especially if you use the air pressure method.
I vote for the stud welding method. I might also drill a 1/2" to 1" hole on the other side and bump it out with a rod and a dolly. Only have to repair a kinda small hole.
I haven't had good luck with the air method. With hard creases, the dent stays, and the lower crown panels take the pressure and bow out.
You are not the first to mention the possible 'hazards' of using this method. I may avoid this method, as I don't understand how it can/will work. Self preservation kicks in when I encounter that which I don't understand. Haven't been able to find any video of that method working or not. I'm not in a hurry. Still in the evaluating/thinking about it mode .
Replace it with a new one, you'll be money, time and frustration ahead. Spend the time you save finishing the car. No rust, no pin hole leaks and no need for tank sealer. Those tanks are 16 gauge, heavier than the 19 gauge body metal, and you will be trying to restore some very strong compound curves next to the welded seams of the two halves. Save the tank for a later project to work on your skills if you have a lot of extra time. Trying to use pressure to fix it will make things worse and maybe give you some quality time in the Emergency Room! I'd used a hole saw to put a 1" to 2" hole in the bottom under the dent so you could use a homemade dolly with a mushroom head to work it out from below. Save the cutout to weld back in when you are done. I still don't think it could be done with any kind of quality given where the creases are. I'd love to see someone prove me wrong!
Anything can be repaired , I have destroyed many a steel ball with a rawhide mallet ! Cost effective is the winner here i . Safety is another major concern , pressurize that enough to force out that size dent and you have a bomb ! We only get a small number of digits , and eyes , ears , etc. we cant pickup up a new one as you can a replacement tank . Please use caution ever how you decide to make the repair
'compound curves'....even as a neophyte, I saw that as major obstacle. Safety first, for sure. I've seen major injury , even after being told...don't do that. Some real good advice , from you guys, that will not be wasted.
If you want to see the basic concept of how my method is done just Google "Snarling Iron" and watch. Know that most all work done this way means making your own tool's for the Job. Baffles are just a small issue. The Wizzard
maybe make a cover and have it louvered. it always seemed strange that ford made their tanks a visible part of the car. model A tanks at least look like they belong, but the '32 tank i can't tell if the designer forgot to add the tank and added it after or they made the bodies too short.
My Uncle showed me this method near 50 years ago. He was a true Black Smith with many talents. The most important part he taught me is to learn to read first, the damage that is. Do your repair with the least amount of work. He didn't even know what a Mig welder is. Now anyone can fix anything with one. The Wizzard
Glad to meet someone who appreciates what a blacksmith did and the knowledge that they possessed. Knowledge gained at school of hard knocks and trial/error. Every farm that I lived on as a kid, had blacksmith 'shed' ...where the serious work of MAKING parts so that farm life could go on. Ok, some think that a '32 tank on an A , not done 'right' , is not right ! Some say not a good thing/look at all on a A. I like the '32 tank on an A..beat up or not..lol Maybe offend some with the idea of putting a beat in '32 tank on my A, and may offend some even further to put a round alum tank back there....and NOT in trunk..ha !
Good talking with you also. I enjoy coaching and helping where I can. I also understand I just plain don't think like the average crowd. I also don't think or put much merit in what or how others think I should a job they aren't qualified to do themself. Your money, your time and your Car. I say your the only one it needs to make happy. Best of luck with your direction. The Wizzard
I hear ya. **** em. There is going to be a stock 32 tank on my A and kids in my rumble seat. ANYONE GOT PICS OF A TANK IN PIECES?
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