Technical '32 tie rod, over or under wishbone?

I got my new axle today! That's the good news. Bad news is it has the same exact drop as my old axle, just 2" narrower. The new axle is a nice looking unit!

I can only think these CE dropped arms just are not low enough. Since they are forged steel I can heat and drop them I guess but I was under the impression they were intended for a 4" drop axle with a wishbone, but no way.

I don't have any problems owning another axle. It will find a home somewhere. I just gotta figure this out.

Dave

 

Each era wishbone has a different height. Going under a 32 wishbone is the hardest as they hang lowest. Going under a 36-40, not as hard. Going under a 42-48 is really easy as they kinda hump up near the axle.

The arms are not a one size fits every year thing. I bet the CE arms work just fine with a later wishbone. You happen to be using the most difficult wishbones.

 

Ok, that makes sense. Maybe I gotta go over it. I'm thinking about it again.

Thanks,
Dave

 

SoCal deep drop bolt on (bolt through) arms (stainless - don't know is steel is an option) with a SoCal axle and '40 split bones is a bolt in deal with the tie rod under the bones with room to spare and no ground clearance issues.

Edit - I may have had to ream the steering arms from underneath - can't remember exactly but think that was the case! So not exactly bolt in as I suggested!

Chris

 

I don't want to split the wishbone. But thanks.

Dave

 

Mine is split (but mounted inboard of the frame rails) but I don't think that would make any difference if they weren't split.

Chris

 

Okay! I found a working solution. I switched to some '40 spindles and the '32 tie rod NEARLY fit. I will heat and bend the stock '40 arms up maybe a half inch and the rod will clear. I also modified the Model A crossmember so there is not much chance of it hitting and I think I retained the strength as well. Got the top 6 rivets installed and ground flat too. Side and bottom rivets will come when I take the body back off and flip the frame over. I ground the right spindle top to clear the Lincoln brakes and still need to do the left. Also gotta install new king pin bushings and get those reamed. Here are some before and after pics of the crossmember and the tie rod etc.

Thanks for all the help guys!

Dave

Before: Tie rod way under crossmember when turned.



After: Lots of clearance to crossmember now!

 

I watch Steadfast MFG from time to time and he really likes the 46-48 bones with 5 inch axles and the super deep drop bolt on arms from Roadster Supply to put the tie rod under the bones. He's done quite a few this way.

 

When you heat those arms, get them plenty hot before bending. A simple jig helps keep the bends the same. Get yourself a fresh bag of plain clay kitty litter. Take the hot freshly bent arms and bury them in kitty litter. this will allow a slow cool and for the metal to normalize. It may take a few hours before they are cool enough to remove. This way you will not induce stress risers and cracks. Anyways good to have them magnafluxed afterwards to be sure..

 

Didn't take much bending. Just up a little ways, then drop the tie rod eyes down a bit. All cleaned up and loosely bolted back on so it will roll outside and strip it all back down again so I can finish the rivets and welding and strip the frame to bare metal. I can just slip my index finger in between the tie rod and wishbone on each side.

Dave

 

Looks very good !
a

 

Nice.

 

Have you checked your clearances with the ch***is loaded with weight (i.e. ride height)?...and then take into account the full range of suspension travel to make sure your next issue isn't the tie rod hitting the bottom of the frame.

 

Yeah, pretty much. Had the car mostly together including engine and trans, etc. Tie rod is in stock 1932 location with the exception on a 1" lower Model A crossmember and maybe a little less arched front spring. Stock '32 wishbone. It's mostly just the bottom of the axle and car that is lower because of the drop axle. Spring is not reverse eyes. I'll even raise it a bit if needed, not going to be a road grader anyway!

Dave