Montana1 said : One word of caution... It will break parts because the rapid acceleration will suprise you when you nail it. Things go to pieces real fast. The guy I got it from had it on a brand new T-bucket build. The first time he took it out and nailed it, he flipped it. It will scare the Be-Jesus out of you!!! now that sounds like my kinda ride. Wondering if I could interest you In a trade, Your 144 for my 671
Come to think of it...I actually have a pair of Webers on top of the blower, on my Chevy II. They're "Carter" AFBs made in the 1990s.
Someone is going to take offense at this but weber carbs are not magic they are just carburetors. The newer ones are infinitely adjustable which makes them a nightmare and cool at the same time. Way back in the '70s when the WCOEs were popular I didn't care for them much because they were picky as hell. They could be adversely affected by changes in al***ude, or humidity or barometric pressure. The newer carbs don't seem to have those problems so once you get them dialed you are golden.
If you can borow a 4bbl base, you might be better off to get the new cam broken in, engine tuned with a 4bbl. Then change to the webers. Blower engine tuning plus carb tuning on stuff you're not familiar with puts a lot of variables out there. I use to break in every engine I built with a 600 holley vac sec. It was a known good carb, would start everytime. Get the start up, leak check, cam break in, test drive done, then switch the carb to whatever and start tuning.
might also seriously consider putting a wideband O2 sensor on it so you can see if it's running rich enough.
That ain't all bad, they are not black magic. They are complicated, but not that complicated. I run Dell'orto's on my one engine. I got a engine that will run weber DCOE on one of the other. And I plan on running two 97 on another. They can all be made to perform. But if it rubs and drives with them webers they should only need minor adjustments, and they can be made to run like FI. I have close to no issues with my Dell'orto's, they are the best carbs I've had on my engine so far, still need a few parts, and it will run strong and give me good millage. And I got 121 ci and in the ball park of 120-125 hp, 1hp pr ci is good enough for me, and a wide power band. And starts 10times better with webers over my twin strombergs. Rasmus Brynk Andersen, from Denmark.
Given options I prefer Dell'ortos, I cannot give you a logical reason why. I just like them better, perhaps it is from the headaches that the DCOEs gave me when every jack leg and their cousin thought that they had to have a DCOE on their Harley. I cannot remember he proper name for it but there was a Webber that resembled the DCOE that was way easier to tune and keep tuned. You being from the other side of the pond will know which carb I am talking about. this does bring us way off from the intended topic of the thread but it is still free exchange of information isn't it.
I ran it at 10.5-1 for about 11 years in my motorhome! Way over 500 ft. lbs. In the '32 I had to drop it way back to 8.6-1. Mash the throttle, you better be pointing in the right direction. It would go sideways anytime you wanted. Broke too many parts. Now its purrs like a kitten, but still comes on like a wildcat with 490 ft. lbs. @ 5500 rpm. Looking at your avatar, I can see your reference point... That's a heart attack waiting to happen! lol
The blower doesn't know a thing.....what's under it,or on top- it just does it's thing= making boost relative to pulleys. Sure- it will want more from the top=carb,and will do it's thing to things undernieth,so those have to be in order. I run a 142 "why-and" on my engine in my Merc..... Homework was required to install on my "existing" engine. Had to get the timing in check first(priority),then the fuel "curve"...... I lucked out with a summit cam,that had the close enough overlap,and things started to fall into place.... Those carbs are indefinetelly adjustable- so if you have the resources,time,and patience,they will work,-BUT= homework is required! My engine has the same heads as pictured,so no big hp gains to be had. For a carb- a boost referenced AED Holley 850. Jetted beyond my wildest dreams,but- the results are as follows..... Idle is at 675 rpm in gear,and is smooth as a baby's ****,park is around 750-800 rpm,never loads up,and can sit forever that way. AND,I can mash it at anytime,and get the "whoa" factor with my big tanker. So- you CAN make what you have work,or do a single four. BOTH need some tunning/thinking/smarts/,and homework on your part. Not a bolt on and go. It can be done,and is not rocket science,so choose what you want to run,and make it happen........
When I was a kid, I saw a 4 door deuce and a quarter Buick with a 455" motor in it and the guy had a squirel cage blower off a furnace in a blow through application at the drags! (sorry, off topic) It looked really HOKEY, but he said it helped. lol I wouldn't recommend that either.
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