Drive it... my 402 keeps running better, the more fuel that goes thru it. Runs better on premium. It will ping on 89 lugging up hill 1200-1400 rpm. 3 days 660+ miles. Now a Sway bar, and Gear Vendor Overdrive, this truck will be fun.
JUust FYI.....Retarded timing means un-burned fuel is being spewed into the exhaust manifolds because of late exhaust valve closing. Advancing timing stops / limits this. Just trying to help...not have a peeing contest. 6sally6
No peeing contest suggested....just trying to get a full mechanical understanding of this. I responded to your suggestion that more advance would make it run cooler...it's my understanding that more advance makes it run leaner and lean means heat - especially with iron heads. My engine certainly exhibits this - at 8 initial, it runs cool 185...but at 12, it heats up quickly (not over-heating, but sits at 230). I like the way it runs right now at 8 initial, mid range is great and 185 - but off the line is disappointing. I'm going to play with the accelerator pump linkage and possibly squirters this weekend in attempt to get rid of the slight hesitation off-the-line. I may also lighten the dist. springs and experiment with that.
sorry for the very late reply, 327 with flat top's using 64 cc 462 heads is more like the specs of the 327/300hp compression in that motor was listed as 10.25. only the 300hp had 64 cc 461's used the smaller 1.94 n 1.5 valves verses the 2.02 x1.6 of the 462's the 327/350 cams i used started pulling around 3000, low end they were dogs top end pulled like demon's other wise my 300's were all great motors, when my pocket was lean i could run reg gas in a pinch with little ping
461 and 462 heads came with both size valves. There weren't seperate castings for the different valve sizes.
my point was for the compression ratio, 62 cc small valve made 10.5 the 64 cc which used the unshrouded 2.02 intakes heads made for 10.25 the lowly, 250 hp 327 using the 3795896/74 cc power pack heads sat at 9.5 small chamber heads with pop tops made 11.5 the 300 hp 327 was a odd ball, small chamber heads, flat top pistons, 250 hp cam, a 1 hp engine only longer runner cast iron intake with a AFB, bigger 2.5 outlet ram horn exhaust manifolds ,
I'm reopening this discussion because I am getting ready to pull my TH350 with leaking front seal out to have it gone through and I'm wondering if I should put some sort of stall converter in there when I put it back together? My rear end gear is a 350 and my tires are about 32 in tall. My camshaft build sheet is on an earlier post in this thread in the car weighs around 2,000 lb wet. I'm wondering if letting it get a little RPM before the pump locks up might make it peppier? I just want to do a huge burnout from a dead stop but can't (it'll spin the tires though if you drop it down and punch it). Thoughts?
A light car can use a bit of stall, but too much is going to be miserable. Did you get the engine dialed in well? It sounds like it is still working the way it did at the start. Won't spin the tires from a dead stop, but will while moving. If you change the converter then get the engine happier, you could end up switching back. I kind of understand wanting certain characteristics, but having it hook from a stop is a GOOD thing. Lots of guys try to tune that out. Are the tires sticky? What pressure are you running? Does the rear end lift, remain the same or squat from a stop? What rear suspension are you running? How much Stall are you getting now? Lots of questions to ponder before throwing parts at it.
What is the rear end ratio ????? Just be careful with high stall converters [if the stall is higher than the cruising rpm] The higher the stall ,the lower the rear ratio. [they are "bed partners"] Dick with the governor on the side of the trans [it's accessible without opening the trans ] You can play with the weights and springs just like a Dizzy to move the shift positions higher or lower. the Kits are cheap https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-700316 And get some lessons from "professor Youtube" on how to play with the governor
My very similar 327 likes 12* initial but it also likes 91 octane, which I can't always get. I compromise at 10* and can get by with 87 octane. Gary
^^^^THIS will make a noticeable difference... Light springs....total advance in by 2000/2500 RPM.... hi-test fuel...dialed in carb...you will be able to hear the quickness in the engine acceleration(when you wiing the carb linkage)...should net the smokey burnouts you are looking for. I always wanted to try running the windshield washer hose to the top rear tires. Maybe run a little bleach and water mixture. (You get where I'm going here!?) Let us know 6sally6
7.50-16 Firestone bias ply tires... hooking up, it is not. Pete and Jakes ladder bars with a buggy spring.
I run 91 and it seems to like that better, but not a big difference. The engine seems to come off of idle better at 10-12 degrees advance, but the manifold vacuum drops down quite a bit and adjusting the carb doesn't fix,
OK...I have the spring kit. It's easy enough to try - will do. This was my initial thought, but someone talked me out of it. No fenders burnout with bleach? No thanks
I see you have 31" tyres with the 3.5 rear. If you had a 2800 stall converter it would still be below stall in 1st gear at 30 mph around town. 4.10:1 gears would be better it would hammer along at 70mph at 3100rpm [I would go even lower if it is a street bandit] Right now your engine is purring along at 2650 rpm at 70 mph [you distributor is barely at full advance] Do not even consider a high stall converter unless you lower the rear gears [they go together] As a comparison , your car with 4.10 gears and 31" tyres would be exactly the same as an old Impala with 3.36 gears and 25-1/2" tyres. If that Impala had 2.88 gears it would be the same as what you have now [too high geared] Try the rear gears first [you might not even need to play with the transmission] and if you don't like it , it is a reversible mod.
It probably wouldn't be needed at all [A higher stall converter is usually needed with a fatter cam and needs to be compatible with the rear end gears] But your cam is not that fat . 4.10's and 31" tyres is getting the car to behave like an old stock Impala with the same 3.25" stroke crank. Except your car is a lot lighter and has a 3 speed [instead of a power glide] so it should take off "like a scolded cat" I am a believer in "less is more" and are confident that if you just did the rear gears, you will be pleasantly satisfied If you don't want to make a commitment to the gears YET! see if you can borrow some wheels with a 26.5" rolling diameter. Bolt them on and try it around the block a few times. Note I said 26.5" inch wheels ,and not 25.5" that old Impala's had [that is because your car has 3.5:1 vs the 3.36:1 Impala rear] If this works ,then bolt your 31's back on and do 4.10 rear gears This is what we call "applied research and development" [aka "lets try it and see"]
I just read this through and can give you the following experience. 33 years ago, I bought a 350 with 64 CC heads, and a similar, isky 262 can. Before the Internet. I put it in my 66 C10, with a turbo 350 and an 1800 rpm l 82 Corvette spec torque converter. I had an off the shelf accel point distributor, and a 750 Holley, 600, afb, 3 deuces etc. I didn't really know what I was doing. I set timing either at 12 degrees ported as I was taught, or by ear. With 3.73s I couldn't get traction, and enjoyed it so much I blew the rear end up. 3 times. On number 4 I put in a 3.08 set. Now I couldn't do a burnout, but launched hard. I ran 275 60 15s, and later 31 x 10.50s, and N 50 15s, a with similar results. The 1800 torque converter was definitely perfect for my cam(262 advertised duration, .425 lift). I later ran a 327 with the l79 cam, still ran really hard. I never lost a race with either, , and I was a true bonehead. I also ran both the 350, the 327, and all my other flat top small blocks with fuelie heads on similar timing specs, on 87 octane. Still do to this day. This was in a 66 C10 long bed. Heavier, bigger, and with the factory truck arm rear. It was a perfect starting point for me though.not a perfect comparison, but similar gears, tires, cam and torque. Food for thought
A Vega converter works well with 327 not going to custom made to order , With cams under .485 lift & average duration, With several combo 9:1 - 11-1/2 . 2,500 - 3,300 pd with 3:73 -3:43 gear 27- 30 tall tire 327 is a unique , I tried a few off shelf converters , Just did not work as well as The Vega
I've not changed out a 9" pumpkin while the rear end is in the car (only after taking the rear end out). I can get clear access to knock the lower five bolts into the housing, but not necessarily the ones on top... Anyone ever been able to get a pumpkin off without knocking all the bolts in?
Yes , You should , some times take & let rear drop down slide chunk out, If just using a Jack , remover cup on jack & make a Fixture to mount to & 2 pion bolts to help hold chunk . So you can roll jack Back & Forwards .
Good idea to hold pumpkin while remove/install...I'm using a HF trans jack, which scissors and has a strap - should work. I'm having difficulty getting the pumpkin to part ways with the housing - it's stuck on there pretty good and I don't want to be at on the seam with something and risk bending the housing. I currently have the lower 5 T-bolts pounded into the housing.
Some can be difficult , On one's after not separating with Heave dead blow , work in between with heavy duty gasket crapper to get a gap , wants started , step up to Prybar's , 2 with heels , walk it from housing. There times when you knock T studs threw , Then when you go to install chunk the T studs push threw easy , then back to pulling chunk again until you tac T studs back in place ,
So, the differential that came out of my rear end is a unit bought at a Ford dealership, with a trac-lock differential and 350 gears. I used Lucas gear oil which has the friction modifier built in. The differential was tight at first, but after I drove it a bit it loosened up and stopped chirping around corners. I put about 500 mi total on this unit- what do you think about the state of the gear oil I took out?
Are those shiny bubbles or metal particles? The "milky" color of the lube is moisture? As the gears wear in the fluid usually turns darker.
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