can you take a clear picture of the stamping? The 3 letter suffix started in 1970, and the 307 was made thru 1974. In those early years of the 3 letter suffixe the truck engines had a suffix that started with T, the car engines with C, so it's not likely that it's a 307...especially if it's a small journal engine. Looking at the stamping might give some more clues.
I have the same problem I have a 3858174 casting with a YWC suffix ?cannot figure it out at all.People keep saying its a 307 because it has 3 digits. and I have the small journal steel crank with the power pack heads ? Any suggestons?
Fo316ywc is the full suffix.I have the plant date all the regular info .Its the three digit code that is baffling me
What is the casting date code at the back of the block? YW is the suffix for a 1966 C60 (big) truck 327 engine. They also used CE or R to designate "parts counter" replacement engines, perhaps it's a replacement engine?
Even though all 327 are vette motors ,Unusual bragging rights ,You will be plased with it ,Mine is out of a 69 camaro or vette........ Ive got to remember to keep my story straight ,Lol
cast clock c156 = march 15 1966 .Which I figured .But the suffix still makes no sense.Unless its a replacement as you suggest?
That's the only way I can make sense out of it. Would be nice to see what the stamping actually looks like..... Is the engine original or has it been redone? the truck engines were painted green, the car engines were orange.
It looks factory all line up,clear to view ,the blocks orange,but probably been painted.I got it out of a 74 lifted 4x4.So he probably bought and threw in.
FWIW, heres the codes off the small-journal 327 I am building for my Chevy II. K 11 10 KL, and the casting number is 3903352. According to my info, this is a 275hp 327 out of a '67 Impala, which pretty much jives with what the seller told me, he said it was a '66 Impala, but a lot of guys cant tell them apart. The first K indicates a Canadian block.
I'm late on this thread, yea I know, but I got a 3858174 327 getting bored right now, and it still has the stamp F1013HF. I didn't get to see the casting clock because it's buried behind a 440, but how are you guys telling what car it came from? That camaro link: http://www.chevy-camaro.com/chevy-camaro-chevy-engine-suffix-codes.asp?group=4 describes 3 possibilities as a 300HP or one of 2 275HP. This old thing has been beaten, bastardized, "powerpack" heads with screw in studs when I got it, Harland Sharp rockers, a damn Pete Jackson noisy (really really noisy) gear drive, and a worn out cam, so who knows what it was originally. I'm just wishing to use a front breather, road draft tube setup so I can put on my sweet finned valve covers. Road draft tube mods aside, where can you make a final determination? I don't really care because I just want to run my finned valve covers, and throw that magic word "327" when people ask "watchya got in it?" Another side question, I am aware of the legends, especially the FI 375HP vette engine, but what is everyone's fascination with a Chevy 327? I like the bore and stroke combination, and the road draft hole allows me to run my finned valve covers. You can't image the trouble I put myself through running old 283's and now this 327 JUST because I want to use finned valve covers with no fill/breather holes...but it's more trouble than it's worth I'm sure. Too bad I don't care, or I'd be one of those 350/turbo 350 guys. And there is nothing wrong with a 350/350 setup either, so no offense!
And if you would like a nice working noisy PJ gear drive, I have the genuine article, all the hardware, and installation instructions. In fact, come over and I'll put it in for ya too!
The Partial VIN stamped along with the engine plant,date and suffix code, is the key to what car it came from. For example a 69 350 engine with the Partial VIN stamped 19Nxxxxxx would tell you a 69 Camaro because the N designates the Norwood Ohio plant and they made Camaros there. So it would have to be from a Camaro. All Vettes used to be produced at the St. Louis plant so the partial VIN from a Vette motor would HAVE to have an "S" plant code in the partial VIN. Again this only works when the Partial VIN is also stamped on the engine too. You also have to be able to know what cars were produced at what plants for that year. Some plants may have produced more than one car which would only narrow it down to those cars produced by that plant during that given year.
Your stamp equates to: F=Flint MI foundry 10=October 13=13th day of the month This is the assembly date of the engine. HF=application Find the casting date on the back of the block then look the date up on the link you provided for the original application. I've had a few 300HP and above. Always thought they performed better than similar sized engines. Especially in a light car.
ok, so I have read almost every post and I am confused about my casting number and pad number. every where I look has contradicting info. my casting number is 3858174 the pad number is F0608XD no vin or anything else. can someone help? I just bought this engine and was told its a 327. just want to see if I can find out what it came out of and to make sure its a 327.
XD is the code for 1969 Truck 350 engine....probably won't find that on the internet very easily, I have a couple old Chevy truck parts books.
to make sure it's a 327, measure the stroke...if the pistons move 3.25" then it's a 327, if they move 3.48" then it's a 350
Think this was said before. Extra H=Holley carb...Extra R=Q-jet. Some motors, in some years, for some reason were built with either. Even at the same H.P. rating.
It is amazing to me that these motors have captured so much attention for so many years and have generated so many discussions and searches. I have one and am just as hooked as everyone else. I don't know if anyone can definitively explain why. In the end it doesn't matter . The interest is just another mystery to figure out about it. The thing is just plain cool.
Sorry to hear it wasnt a vette engine. I personally prefer mine from grain trucks, usually high nickel blocks with steel cranks and worked hard. If theyre not cracked and still have some bore, Im happy.
Same here... I pulled a 350 out of a 1970 GMC pickup... It was a 4-bolt block with a forged steel crank.... I was happy....
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