That cam will be all done around 5500-6000. Like I said earlier, z/28 intake. Or a Edelbrock C3B or C3BX if you want something "period", with that cam it wont give up much if anything to the Z/28 intake. As far as that goes, if you are really stuck on the Car Craft theme, use the regular Performer RPM, it will perform the same as the Z/28 or air gap if you block the heat risers, and it has a boss you can drill for the oil fill tube. I dont know why you are so stuck on the air gap, your combo is so mild, I dont think the trade-off in part throttle fuel economy & harder starting would be worth the 5-10 hp you are going to pick up running a cold intake. You do know there are two different RPM's right? Your posts are using RPM and RPM Air-gap interchangeably, which makes me think maybe you dont.
Yeah, I have an Edelbrock catalog. There's more than just two... I found another. The Performer EPS. Model 2703 It comes with the oil spout and breather. Idle to 5500 rpm. Can't find any reviews on it but they claim it is a step up from the normal performer intake. Anyone familiar with it? http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2703/10002/-1?parentProductId=750760 And again someone said I have a very mild built motor. Is it just the cam? Seems that being cams are pretty cheap now would be the time to change it if I should.
Well theres also my personal favorite, the quadrajet flanged RPM, but some guys find Q-jets a little intimidating to tune. If you want, PM me with some info on your car, auto or stick, , converter, power brakes, rear gear, approx. weight and heads. Its really a pretty typical street cam for what most guys are running nowadays, pretty similar to the old chevy 151, but with a little less duration & a 110 lda instead of 114. Why dont you try the cam out first? Keep in mind, when I say the cam is done by 5500-6000 rpm, I dont mean it wont rev any higher than that, I mean if you did a dyno pull, the power would start to fall off in that range.
Large journals are cast cranks--- good Small journals are forged cranks--- gooder change occured around 1968
I'm off to work for the evening. I'll pm you asap. And to be honest, I'll be happy if I'm in the 300 - 320hp range all said and done. That and I want to sound healthy/cam'd. I know the heads I have a nice. Not the best out there by any stretch, but should be great for a driver. I'm just hoping that with block hugger headers and maybe some glass packs or nice sounding mufflers.... it sounds healthy and mean. It's going in a 46' International Harvester K3. Long wheelbase (132" -134") truck with an 8.5' bed. Jaguar XJ6 front and rear independant suspension. 700R4 trans. The Jag rear has 2.82's in it now as it's a series III. Going to swap some XJ12 gears in it. 3.55's/posi
Is there just something about that general displacement that makes them good; Buick 322 @ 4x3.203, Olds 324 3.875x3.438, Caddy 331 3.8125x3.625 and Chevy 327 4x3.25? All have around a 4 inch bore and a shorter stroke and all are capable hot rod motors.
I'm sure this is the last life of this block and crank. Maybe the second rebuild? Anything I should be concerned with with the block and crank? (Block was bored to .060” over with new TRW pop up pistons with molly rings. Crank was turned to .020”-.020” with new Clevite rod and main bearings)
There are still lots of '60s vintage Edelbrock C4B, C3B, and C3BX intakes out there in the $50-$75 range. I see them at swap meets quite often.
Had a mild 327 in my first car, a '69 Camaro. Never broke, reved to 6500 with hydraulic cams, and was plain fun. Beat many a 396/325 in a Saturday night street race. Steve
I've got a 327 with 1 carb and no nitrous that went 8.50 @ 160 MPH in a comp dragster. Nothing wrong with that, right?
Maiden, if you want something hot and rather stock in a cam, you might try Chevy part number 3863151, these are hyd cams that came in the L79 327 350hp motors, they have a 221/221 duration and a .447"/.447" lift or a little hotter and a tad more radical Chevy part number 3849346, these are mech cams that came in the 327 365hp and the 302 Z/28 motors, they have a 254/254 duration and a .485"/.458" lift, both using a 11.0:1 compression ratio I am running the first in my 327, it is pushing my '60 Bel Air to the point that I usually let up off it way before it tops out.....but am thinking about going to the bigger second just for squirts and giggles when I rebuild later this year.
That comment takes me back to the days of working the counter of an aftermarket parts store in the early '80s. "What size engine does it have?" "I dunno.....must be a 305. Doesn't look big enough to be a 350".
They are the best 327'S. But I****** about chevy threads here so I'm just chiming in out of respect after reading some of post. They do rock on the highest level. Yeah I said that...
When I was on the counter Back in the 60's I'd ask if they had whitewalls when they wanted a air filter. Ahh, the good old days.
Or just run the 3.55's and a 350 turbo. and not TOO much compression, the price of 93 (if you can find it) is very close to $4.00 in SoCal right NOW!
This manifold is as close as you can get to the chevy aluminum hi-rise. Every company comes out with a "gotta have 10 more hp" manifold but for a street hot rod motor I ain't found any thing noticably better than the C3B or stock chevy manifold. Plus the C3B's are cheap at swap meets. Pat
Hey better yet, drop a 400 crank in it and call it a 427 small block, now thats a better feeler if'n there ever was one!!!!
Great engine. I'd take one over a 350 anyday. I prefer the small journal. They all had steel cranks and the bearing speed is a lot less (if that means anything) Plus, if you decide to get creative, you can drop a 283 crankshaft in the small journal.
The Jalopy Journal
