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33-34 ford door rebuild

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by aramwest, Jul 18, 2010.

  1. aramwest
    Joined: Aug 4, 2007
    Posts: 12

    aramwest
    Member
    from seattle

    Hello,
    I have a ford truck cab with seriously degraded doors. No money and a small amount of skills / tools. I am thinking of rebuilding the supports where the hinges hang by using a heavy angle iron followed by another support structure.
    I am also considering making the doors sit flush with the outer body.

    My questions: how do I de-skin the door in the best way so as to re-use the skin? What sort of internal structure/battles am I looking at? I would also appreciate ideas for window channels that are simple.

    Any advice appreciated.

    Thanks
     
  2. fleetside66
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 3,143

    fleetside66
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well my good man, that's a loaded question. First of all, you should have some basic metal working tools, such as a cutting wheels, grinder & welder. I'm not a good welder & I rebuilt two doors. But, I'm a helluva grinder. (They don't look half bad, if I must say so myself.) First of all, I'd ditch the flush with the body idea. With the overlap, you'll have a little leeway. Besides, it'd probably look like ****. Why don't you start by cutting off the existing skin about a couple of inches below the belt line so you can see what the innards look like. Hopefully, all of the channels, etc. will still be there (rusty or not). Are the window winders & latches still there? If so, I'd try to use them. They can be rebuilt or replaced with good used stock. I'd leave everything as stock as possible. It's a step by step process & will take some time. But, as you go from one phase to another (and read all you can here by using the search ****on), you'll find that the work will be manageable. They do make all of the necessary patches for these doors, including the bottoms, and full & partial skins. They reproduce the gl***. I did it without any gl***, window winders or latches & I am not what you'd call a skilled metal worker. I'll try to post some before & after pics for you. It can be done.
     
  3. fleetside66
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 3,143

    fleetside66
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  4. captainjunk#2
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,420

    captainjunk#2
    Member

    geesh fleetside66 did you rebuild that crustacean remnant back into a door ? that first picture shows me there really are much worse doors out there than whats on my 34 ,
     
  5. 56don
    Joined: Dec 11, 2005
    Posts: 10,333

    56don
    Member

    Man, fleetside,I thought I started with junk on my 34,but man you did a great job!I wouldn't even call that first photo a door,its just an idea. I am gonna quit whinning about my rusty carc*** from now on.
     
  6. geage
    Joined: Jan 25, 2008
    Posts: 94

    geage
    Member

    here,s my 2 cents, aramwest ,send yer doors to fleetside,,,,,,,next ?
     
  7. Road Oiler
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 146

    Road Oiler
    Member

    That's worth a golf clap.......nicely done.
     
  8. fab32
    Joined: May 14, 2002
    Posts: 13,985

    fab32
    Member Emeritus

    Nice repair on an "almost" wasted door. If your metal working skills are anywhere near what you describe it's a testimony to what can be accomplished by taking it slow and easy.

    Frank
     
  9. fleetside66
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 3,143

    fleetside66
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks for the kind words, guys. I hope this'll give "aramwest" some encouragement. By the way, they do make this stuff called Bondo (for a skim coat, of course...cough...cough).
     
  10. 55 dude
    Joined: Jun 19, 2006
    Posts: 9,357

    55 dude
    Member

    fleetside66 take a huge bow dude as thats beyond impressive thats down right amazing!
     
  11. 4ever18
    Joined: Nov 1, 2007
    Posts: 607

    4ever18
    Member

    If the door skin is good or at least usable, I'd suggest removing the inner door panel. This will keep you from having to do any more welding on the door exterior skin, other than what is absolutely necessary. The inner door panel (or inner door liner, as some people call it) is usually only fastened to the door frame by spot welds. Removing this inner structure will give you access to the door exterior skin as well as the door frame. Just my two cents worth.
     

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