Rebuilt the brakes on the Mavrick rear end yesterday. Had practically new shoes, but the wheel cylinders, springs, retaining clips, etc were rusted pretty badly. I had taken everything apart when I blasted the rear end, so the backing plates and drums were clean and painted and I had had the drums turned. I had installed the rear with out brake components so I could roll the coupe around the shop and work on the suspension, stance, etc. As mentioned in an earlier post, I had bought new wheel cylinders so I got them out of the boxes, cleaned all the parts you have to reuse, bought a rebuild kit (contains new springs and keepers) and a set of new emergency brake cables and put everything back together. My plan is to figure out a way to connect the stock Mavrick cables to the original emergency brake lever/handle. I had a hard time with the cable on the right side. The spring that encases the cable inside the drum and keeps tension on the emergency brake arm seemed to long. It kept bowing out from the backing plate, putting pressure on the other parts where the shoes meet at the bottom. When I unwrapped the cable for the other side the spring was different. Almost 1" shorter and larger around (not as stiff). It fit fine. I should have figured this out earlier, since the problem cable was not enclosed in a sealed plastic sack inside the box when I opened it. And the plastic wire ties that held it in a circle so it would fit in the box were different than the ones in the sealed side. Someone may have returned a cable in the wrong box or it was packaged incorrecctly. I had measured the length of the cable and it was correct so I am not sure what happened. I called my local NAPA store and they ordered another cable for that side and we will compare it tomorrow. I had a set of chrome rims and some brand new BF Goodrich 6:40 x 15 wide whites that came with a 50 Ford project I bought a couple of years ago. I had two of the tires mounted on the chrome rims a couple of days ago and will post pictures of them on the car. I will also cut some circular pieces of cardboard to paint and press inside the outer lip of the rims. That way I can spray the cardboard different colors, press them into the rim lip and get a feel for what the car would look like with painted steelies and wide whites. Its old school photo op.(LOL) I will post pictures of the variations when I get it done for opinions.
sounds like you are coming along well on this. Are you getting the column and wheel from EZ? If not, you can always do like I did on my Old 49 Plymouth and adapt an older Dodge (Plymouth for me) wheel to a GM column. (it would probably be better to use to one from EZ though). Bud
Update on emergency brake cable. The reordered one arrived at NAPA yesterday. Same longer, more tightly twisted spring. So, I cut off 1/2" of the spring to more closely match the other side and installed it. Still haven't figured out why the two sides are different.
I needed to replace the flexible brake line that runs from the rear end to the hard line normally plumbed along the frame from the MC to above the rear axle. It was worn, plus it is a good idea, safty wise to use a new one, plus it was too short to reach the tab on the frame where it attaches to the hard line. (The old one is on the bottom of the picture) Went to NAPA and looked through their book. Must be 500 variations on the flexible line for the rear end. Parameters were it needed to exit the line block that is fastened to the axle housing, by the combo vent tube 7/16" bolt, to the left (original exited to the right), the rubber line had to be longer and the threads on the block had to be compatible with the threads on the brake lines going from the block to the wheel cylinders. Interesting that the wheel cylinders use 3/8's OD fine thread and the original block used 7/16 OD. The 3/8's is standard on 3/16" brake line, but the 7/16 is standard on 1/4" line. The original hard lines from the wheel cylinders to the axle block had different size fasteners on each end. Not wanting to have to cut one end of a new hard line and reflare it or add in an adapter, I looked for a block that had 3/8's OD female threads. Found one listed for a 66 Fairlane, NAPA Part # 36733 that had the hose exit from the left side, was 3 1/2 " longer than the original Mavrick line, and had 3/8 OD female thread holes. NOTE: You can't just flip the block over to get it to exit the left side. The block has a slight curved groove on the bottom side to fit the contour of the axle housing to insure it seals against the housing when you tighten down the vent tube/retaining bolt.
I operate under the rule, don't remove it until you are sure you don't need it. Hence, I left the cradle crossmember that held the back of the original flathead in place when I removed it and dropped in the 318. I figured it just made the frame that much stronger. However, as you can see, cradle drops down from the frame, and creates a space issue with respect to routing the exhaust, particularly on the drivers side where the starter, exhaust, steering linkage and brake pedal/MC all have to fit in a very tight area. The picture is from the front looking back towards the rearend. Since the frame does have an X member which results in the frame being boxed for the majority of the middle of the frame and adding a M-II front crossmember just behind the original front crossmember, which I left in, removing the cradle cross member shouldn't hurt anything. So out came the cutoff wheel. Ground down the heads of the rivits that held in the cradle, used the air chisle to punch them out, 4" angle grinder with twisted wire wheel to clean off the frame behind where the cradle attached, wiped the area down with some etch solution, shot some primer and some rattle can black and I have a clean open area. Makes a big difference. I can now tuck the exhaust pipe up tighter and should have more room to manuver the steering linkage and MC location.
I was going to final mount the radiator, knowing that I am going to have to cut the air diverter that pushes air up through the grill to the radiator. I removed the diverter and noticed that I hadn't tightened down the two bolts that hold the radiator cradle to the front crossmember when I set the front clip back on. As I tightened them down, my friend Max noted that the hole at the bottom of each fender which is supposed to line up with the hole in the frame through which you put the bolt that holds the bumper on wasn't lining up. In fact as I tightened down the cradle bolts the fenders weren't coming down at all. So, I backed off the nuts, and we realized that the inner part of tophats that hold the Spring and to which the top A-arm is attached in the M-II set up were stopping the cradle from coming all the way down to the original cross member. Since the grill and the front fender brackets also attach to this cradle the whole front clip is sitting about 5/8's " to high. I am not sure how I am going to cure this problem. Angle cut the inner edge of the top hats, cut a slot in the cradle on each side, cut out an inch in of the cradle in the middle and move the sides in meaning I will have to rebend the area where the fender brackets attach or some other solution. But something has to be done to get the clip down in the front or the hood will never fit right.
Removed the fenders and the grill this afternoon so I could get at the radiator cradle and the batwings that attach to it. The batwings are realy fender braces which also serve as the mounts for the headlights. As indicated in a previous post, the problem was the cradle was hitting on the inside of the tophats of the M-II where they are welded to the frame and not allowing the cradle to sit all the way down onto the cross member. This was preventing the fenders, since they were held up by the batwings attached to the cradle, from sitting down over the frame ends and allowing the hole in the fender to line up with the hole in the end of the frame where the bumper bolt slides through. I thought about shaving off the inside edge of the tophat but there was not much space between the inner edge of the tophat and the adjustment slots that allow you to adjust the A-arm in or out for alignment purposes. The only solution seemed to be to notch the cradle so it would sit down over the top hat. So, I unbolted the cradle, got out the cut off wheel and went to work. Once I had the cuts made, I got out the torch, heated the flap I had cut and bent it toward the inside of the cradle. You can see the flap after it was bent. I will take it back out and weld the flap along the sides of the cradle and a strap on the back, like the one on the front, to give it some extra strength While the cradle will now sit down on the cross member and should allow the fender to line up with the hole in the front of the frame you can see there is not much room for the top A-arm to slide inward, but it should be OK. I subs***uted a carriage bolt for the original hex head that held the batwing to the cradle on each side to allow as much room as possible for the A-arm to slide inward.
Well, the kitchen update I promised my wife has morphed into a full blown construction project which now includes a hobby room for her and a complete rebuild of the adjoining laundry room. So, except for acquiring a few parts here and there for the 33 build, I haven't done anymore work on the coupe. I want to thank Ezdusit for the contribution of the early mopar steering column and wheel. It should help ease the tight fitment problem between the engine and the frame. Hopefully, I can get back on the project later this month.
Hi Fat47, I love the Dodge..... I just read a few of the post and responses so hopefully I am not repeating what someone else might have told you.... in the original pictures the front fenders appear to be Plymouths not Dodges as the Dodge fender should have a raised "spear" on them going from the lower front of the fender up part way to the head light area........ and the hood ornament for these cars were way cool too..... a leaping ram was the radiator cap / hood ornament........Again understand I am just making you aware .... the Plymouths and Dodges are gourgeous cars I currently own a 34 Plymouth 5 window coupe ( all steel streetrod) and 33 Dodge ( just coupe body and frame) I just got for a highboy project. Best of luck on your build ....keep the old Plymouths and Dodges rocking for many years to come Dennis
Finally, back on the coupe project. The kitchen project has streched on forever, then sold my 47 aerosedan, then bought a 60 Brookwood wagon, flew out to Seattle and drove it back (see Tacoma to Indy in a 60 Brookwood thread) Welded in the boxing plates to hold the top shock mounts, a coat of paint and hung the shocks As noted previously, when I tried to set the front end back on the car the holes at the bottom of the fenders in front sat 3/4" higher than the holes in the front of the frame horns. This is where the bumper bolts in and these holes had lined up perfectly when I removed the front clip. Realized that the top hats on the new M-II suspension were holding up the cradle that holds the fenders. As explained earlier, I cut a relief in the cradle on each side to let it set down over the top hat. The two bolts in the picture hold the fender brace to the cradle. The holes for the two bolts are elongated to allow the brace to be adjusted up and down in the cradle cross piece. I added another 1/2" to the lower end of the elongation to be on the safe side. Set the front clip back on and the holes now line up. With the front end back in place, I could install the new radiator. Had to make some new brackets that fit on each side and bolt to the radiator and then to the grill shell. I will be at the Goodguys Indy this weekend in the 60 Brookwood wagon if anyone wants to stop by and discuss the Coupe project or just have a beer.
Installed the electric fan this morning. I ended up with enough clearance between the water pump pully and the radiator for a mechanical, but the engine is set low enough that a mechanical would only cool the bottom 1/3 of the radiator, but more problematic is that with the engine sitting low a mechanical fan would hit on the original front cross member. Given that removing the original cross member (remember I have a M-II cross member added) would still only allow me to cool the bottom 1/3 unless I raised the engine up quite a bit I opted for an electric fan I had in the shop. My friend Max came over and helped me set the hood back on and adjust the gaps. Fits great now. We put the front bumper back on, but it still needs more adjustment to get it to set straight. Will work on that some more tomorrow. Will probably move on to wiring and/or plumbing the brake lines and gas lines next.
Glad to see that you're back on it. Been a busy summer, huh? Starting to look like a whole car again. Charlie
Cool, read the build this morning for the first time. I really like old Mopars. I love the frames on them, they are built so well compared to the other brands. Good luck!
Finally back on the project. Small things now. Installed the cowl and radiator shell lacing Thursday. Preliminary installation of pins to keep the sucide doors from accidently coming open while moving. Will post pictures later. Am probably going to have to cut the arm of the X member under the drivers floor board and bend it back to the frame to give me enough room for the master cylinder. Still thinking this over. Will work on wiring today.
It was hard to get an angle for this picture, but you will get the idea. The wood tack strip fits into a C channel on the A pillar. In turn, this channel fits inside another C channel that is about 1 1/2" deeper than the outside channel leaving a gap between the two back sides, essentially creating a kind of box tubing behind the wood strip. It allowed me to cut a rectangular opening between the two C channels on the back side allowing me to insert a door pin mechanism from the kick pannel side of the A pillar. You can see the pin mechanism after I inserted it. This is the part of the cross member that I may have to cut loose from the frame, then pie cut the top and bottom of the member and bend it back so it meets the frame about 10" further back. This would allow me to mount the brake pedal and MC in a position that places the MC under the floor board I built in front of the seat. This would allow me to cut an opening in the floor, make a cover plate, and be able to access the MC. Otherwise I have to mount the pedal mechanism forward of the X member and run a longer push rod to the MC and mount the MC behind the X member which would put it under the seat, meaning either a remote fill or having to remove the seat to get to the MC. I'm not sure about this yet so let me know if you can think of an option.
Started wiring the 33 this week. Mundane stuff, so no pictures. I had a couple of EZ wiring harness/kits that I picked up at swap meets from guys that gave up on projects, so I pulled one out to use. It has a lot more circuits than I need, like electric fuel pump, power windows, AC, etc but who knows. I may use them eventually. Since my current plan is to use an original steering column, the interesting part will be figuring out the byp*** of the kits GM column hookups. Ran the rear light wiring New Years day----too old to stay up NY's eve, so no hangover----and the front lighting yesterday. Removing the rewiring job on the stock restoration by the previous owner was interesting. Wire links were just twisted together and taped over. He had converted to 12 V and had replaced one of the two single filament sockets in each tail light with a dual filament so there were 3 wires to each tail light: turn, stop and tail. Kit has turn and running, but have to figure out brake light. Still not sure about cutting the X member to install a brake pedal. No suggestions from readers yet (see previous post). So I am wiring and fooling with small details putting off that decision. I am also thinking about what rims to run. I earlier pictures you can see the Chrysler wire rims that were on the car. Not original, probably mid 80's. A friend brought over a couple of sets of big and little billet to try, but I just couldn't bring myself to even check them out on the coupe. I had a set of 53 Ford rims with wide whites for another project but they wouldn't fit over the front hubs on the MII conversion. I have some other Ford rims with a bigger hub hole that I will try later. At this point it seems my choice is to go ahead and run the Chrysler wires or go with steelies.
Looks like you are doing good.I saw your wagon at Indy but didnt see you around it.I have seen guys use the the stock pedal ***y and use a dual cylinder mounted toward the front.My car has the Master Power kit that mounts the booster and cyl under the seat.I do not have internet at home any more so i cant send you any pics.Sorry
lstwsh, Thanks for the response. I sent you a PM. I think you sent me pictures of your MC mount a while back. I am trying to keep it in front of the seat so I can access it easily. I am using the stock seat which doesn't allow easy access. The wagon is part of the reason there was a gap in work on the coupe. I pulled the interior of the wagon and cleaned up the floor panels, blasted all the garnish molding and repainted them. I have the back seat floorboards and the front p***enger side cut out and new ones ready to install. I have new seat covers and door panels ordered and will put the interior back together once they arrive and I have the floor boards repaired. We have enough snow on the ground here that I'm not going anywhere in the wagon for another month or two so lots of shop time.
Was just thinking about you the other day!!keep up the good work---gonna be a sweet rod! Personally,I would run steelies
Sorry to say that I haven't made much progress the coupe the past couple of months. The wife put her foot down on the Kitchen renovation so a lot of the snowy perfect days for shop time were spent in the house. What shop time I did get went to the station wagon regeneration. I did get the wiring routed in the 33 coupe, but need to get back on the brake pedal/MC mount and the steering column fabrication. Still have hopes of having the coupe on the road before the Summer is over. If I get anything noteworthy done I will post more pictures.
Wish I had a progress update, but there hasn't really been any. Once the Summer hit, outside work was double last few years and putting the 60 wagon back together took more time than I had anticipated. Off to KKOA in Salina Kansas in the wagon next Wed, then I have to remedy the rear suspension problem in the wife's 48 pickup so I can borrow it for Frog Follies. Plan is to be back on the coupe late Aug or early Sept. But, as has been the case the past 4 months my plans have tended to get flushed by the reality of life. Thanks to everyone for staying tuned. If any of you are in Kansas next week stop by and say Hello. 60 Chevy wagon, blue suade with blue flames.
Made the 1,500 mile round trip in the wagon without any real issues other than a turn signal malfunctioning. Will have to pull the steering wheel this fall and fix it, but the arm out the window method is currently working fine. Have the wife's PU on the rack, measured and marked and the notch on one side already cut. Hope to finish cutting the boxing plate today and get the first side welded up this weekend and the other side done next week. Then back to the 33 coupe.
Dennis (Austincarnut) Sorry for taking so long to respond. You are right about the fenders. As I think I mentioned in the early stages of the build, the 33 is all steel with the exception of the front fenders. Apparently when the previous owner did his restoration he bought a set of gl*** fenders. I bought the car from his estate and his family didn't know where the original steel ones went. My guess is they were Plymouth repo's and that is all he could find. I have kept my eyes open for a steel set but nothing to date.
The Jalopy Journal
