Another small thing done! Between big stuff! Took it apart Cleaned it, sanded it Used wire wheel cleaner. And steel wool on the chrome. Rebuilt it! Going to use some of my magic “Flitz” to polish it when I get home! A little at a time!
Welp! The Frame is starting to get a little shinier, and less Rusty-er! Think I should’ve just strapped it to the roof of my truck, and took it to the sandblaster! Oh well 75 wire wheels and strap discs later! I’m almost done with it now! Another day or two!
I bought all these cool captured/cage nuts to replace a few that were rusted away, but I think I’m going to use them all over on the frame that way I don’t have to have two hands to bolt the body back down! They make them in all kinds of sizes too! Plus they give you extra meat that you can cut off on the edges if you need to
Also use that paint on existing cast aluminum to keep it from discoloring. Such as the Intake, and the new Buick drums. (Greasy finger prints, and stuff already on them) that doesn’t like to come off, because of the rough cast surface. So, painting them over the cast, with same color paint, seals it a bit, and lets you use mild degreaser to refresh. Of course we will see if the brake heat cooks it a bit, its 500* engine paint, so its 50-50 chance?
I used this way back 15 years ago or so on my DD. First in the brushed on type and then later in the spray on type when I couldn't find the brush type. Great stuff lasted 6-7 years on the outer part of the rotor before it started showing signs of flaking off. Dust cleans up nice when washing the car. Disclaimer: I have nothing to do with this company. https://www.duplicolor.com/product/caliper-paint/
I bead blasted the new drums to get them clean again, because they’re such a rough casting, every little greasy fingerprint shows. So I’m gonna paint them the same paint I used on the rear drums. you can see how close it is. Plus it’s smooth to the touch unlike the rough casting. I’m thinking that is going to hold every little piece of dirt and road debris. Geez!.....those mustang drums look so puny compared the Buick ones! I like the slight shiny sheen the painted ones have.
Looking Snazzy! The Red is a tribute to my Pops! As long as I can remember he Always painted the drums red... to see the paint “pop-out” behind the spokes of what ever wheels he was running. usually Americans, or the wires. (I think it was a 60’-70’s thing! Which what I am wanting anyway) ...But I also like the cast-aluminum-look-Buick fins- riding-on-cookie cutters-hanging out the back side! So the best of both worlds! As far as I am concerned! You either love it or hate it I guess! I had to wrap the red around the little cute Mustang drums, so you actually see the red! ....Oh… By the way I painted the buick drums cast aluminum first, then used the red paint, it’s ceramic-based so it shouldn’t burn off but I found out there’s two different VHT cast aluminum paint, one is 995 and the other one is 1650 which is a little brighter, I like the more pewter looking cast aluminum which is the 995! Kind of f like soda-blasting vs. coarse, sand look? Which matches perfect with the finned drums. The Mustang drums are the slightly brighter 1650 (sand blasted look) see if you can tell? The rears will be lost inside of those big old 10”s anyway!
I'm sure it was popular with car guys first, but Mopar painted the drums Red at the factory with certain wheel options in the late 60s and into the 70s.
Almost done cleaning the frame finally!!! got another hour or so, and then weld a few holes, and add some capture nuts, and....then I’m gonna paint it! Started assembling the Lincoln brakes, but I forgot how to use the stupid brake pliers for the springs! In the past I just used screwdrivers and vise grips to slide them on, but I don’t wanna scratch them! Any y’all know how? Thanks! Much obliged! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hook the spring through the applicable shoe, hold it out a bit and slide the thin end of the handle that has a scoop out of the end and hook that over the pin that the shoe pin at the top center... Excuse my shitty cellphone Art... There may be washers/spacers, adjusters to go on before the springs...at both ends...best to have an applicable diagram to follow rather than the back of the hand https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/33-doll-build-page.1188043/page-21#post-13915085 ...These are great references you took...I bet you knew that... This is what I was trying to convey...
Like STOGY says; but put the adjuster (with a never seize on the threads and a little white grease on the ends) and spring on the shoes, then put them in place with the wheel cylinder push pins (again a little lube where the slide over the shoes), next install the hold-down springs, put the shoe retainer in place, and then install the retract springs (primary spring first according to Bendix). If you are doing them installed; wrapping a bunge cord around the shoes at step 4 helps hold stuff in place.
...lots to know here and yes I only scratched the surface...thanks to all for the dotting I's and crossing T's then there's the shoe orientation with short and long pad...
Wow! Thanks alot! You guys are swell!!!! Thanks for the step-by-step that’s awesome, I thought that the curved part was used for all that but apparently not! I did put never-seize on the threads, and a little bit on the back where the shoes rub the backing plate. Lubed the pins a tiny bit Thanks again! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
This will help me tackle it as well...I had them adjusted and checked locally but they could be better...I have Buick up front as well
I know the instructions say to leave the anchor pin loose until you put the drums on, (it’s slotted up and down) but I can’t recall whether they said to use the adjuster to tighten it, to center everything, or you have to wait till your brakes are actually functional? which that would be a problem at this point. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks Rich! I like your little trick of putting the spring in adjuster on first, I would’ve never done it that way before it looks super simple! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I snug the anchor pin during assembly and adjust it to center the shoes after the hubs and drums are installed. Here is some information on adjustments. Centering the shoes via the anchor pin is an important part of the installation. In can make a huge difference in initial brake performance.
Great help, guys! this would be a great separate post for the new guys. As said, on self-energizing brakes, the leading shoe (the one toward the front of the vehicle when the solid pin is on top) should be the shorter friction surface. I also always 'bop' the shoes back and forth a couple times to make sure they 'float' properly and then center them as much as possible before installing the drum. If they don't, it has to come apart and inspect where the shoe edge rides on the backing plate. Quite often the pads on the backing plates are worn on old stuff, or rarely the shoes aren't smooth and flat. These are shown in picture #2 at 3 O'Clock and 5 O'Clock. Notice how the shoes have little 'dips' at these locations for more surface area. Edit, 33 doll, the rear brakes in post #603 with the self-adjusters - the left side (left one in the pic) the adjuster spring is installed wrong. It should be switched to mirror the right side.
Yeah Rod I noticed that too! Its also missing the e-brake arm. I bought new ones. Pops musta had a late night in the when put it back together back in the day. He is usually good about that stuff, or maybe somebody else did it while he was putting the rearend back together or something that explains why the E brake didn’t hold on the hill and it rolled down. Into a fence. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Put one together! Looks right! Passenger side, short shoe forward, wheel cylinder line facing to the back. Mirror the other side except the adjuster right? since they are both right handed, am I correct? I also used my 53-56 f-100 anchor spacer on the backside, which automatically centers the anchor pin, using it that way, Like a washer, instead of the inside, as a Spacer for narrow shoes like normal. It Should be fine yes? I Can always take it off and do like Rich says to center it later. In theory I was thinking it would just center it like the later pins that are fixed, maybe not. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Kinda like this the relief holds it in the center, if I take the spacer off I can still adjust it like normal, or with spacer “Fixed” like later brakes... No? Yes? Das’ good? (Need Vodka) to get it.. no?yes? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Not familiar with the construction of those MT plates; but usually the flat sided shank of the anchor pin extends thru the backing plate and the heavy washer engages the shank followed by the lock washer and nut.
So Sad....... Was looking up old crow canyon Andys picnics.... found this.... ;( I was 4 in 1973... still remember.... I will post pics soon But all good things end. https://www.loopnet.com/Listing/8000-Crow-Canyon-Rd-Castro-Valley-CA/19574058/ Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
