High fives on sorting out MOST of the issues...you worked hard for finding a happy medium...5 steps forward 2 back eh!...finally settled on the Coupe Crash Claim...I got enough to fix it. What I will say to any of you Hambers that have Hagerty. Make sure you have the Cherished Car Salvage on your policy... it may only cost $40 or so a year more...but here's what happens...if your ride is appraised at 30k and you happen to meet with misfortune as I did and they write off your car...you get 30k back PLUS the car. If you don't have Cherished Car Salvage on your policy and have Guaranteed Value Plus you get 30k BUT they subtract a salvage value of your ride which could be 5k and you get your car back with 25k. I will in future have it and hope never to use it but it could give anyone that has it a better outcome financially to fix it up or not... So in two weeks it will be going in for some surgery...I look forward to it being it's ole snorty self soon... I look forward to hearing more good news on the Doll and your widening smile...
After being transferred three times between Holly MSD and Mallory even though it’s all the same company now I got a nice guy that’s gonna send me a new cap unfortunately, their back ordered till May 29? A cap that fits several different distributors? really? good thing. I don’t need it right now!!! but! I got some great stickers! Maybe Incan tape the broken one with them!
So y’all wanna hear something funny? My wife says, “you can’t drive the 33 today.” And I say why? She says…“Because it stinks so bad, and it’s gonna smell up the clean clothes, with that stinky exhaust, that I wanna hang up out there to dry.” “It makes the garage smell for days!!! ( oops! I still forgot to clean the soot off her hope chest!)
Too funny. To get the soot off the hope chest, try some rubbing alcohol. Test it in a spot that won't show to make sure you're not stripping off finish. Alcohol does a great job at removing pencil marks on bare wood while woodworking. Sooty carbon is likely very close to pencil carbon ...
I went threw this about 6 months ago Your Alt is not putting out enough amps on the first stage , most Alts have 2 stages of charging & some 3 . Lets say your Alt is rated @ 65 amps , That means Alt put's out 65 amps on "2nd " stage of charging & @ above The 3,000 rpms ""Alt Speed "" NOT Engine Speed . So On 1 st stage of charge "" below 3,000 rpm's of Alt speed " Alt is only putting out 15 - 30 ish or so Amps . Not the 65 Your charge wire AWG size matters & depends on THE LENGTH of wire from Alt to Batt, & how much Amps Alt put's out & then there is Size of Batt . & you need to Focus NOT just on Group size But APH reserve Size . Think of the Batt as a Gas Tank & the Alt is pump & circuits as engine burning fuel. Side Note Not All manufactured group sizes have same APH rating or Reserve storage. The Alternator information applies to non-computerized controlled alternators. I have been using Unlight since first came out , Many units, I have only had 1 module failure and it was my fault because I was too lazy to disconnect the battery leads when doing a tack Weld and I knew better. I Have been dealing with many of the companies Holley now has under the Umbrella /Control . For year's I have had direct contact , over last few years all # changed , I hav been building direct inside #'s & emails , More likely don't you like calling Holley Waiting on hold 30 minutes to 2 hr & to get a un knowledgeable Tec or sales
Thanks for the info! I have learned way more about Altenators, electronic ignitions, and Charging systems than I ever wanted to!!! I think all is good now, Except maybe going from 8 gauge to 6 gauge On the Alternator batt post, And maybe just hook directly to the hot post on the battery, rather than the other end of the cable on the Battery side of solenoid post, how it is now?
It was an absolute perfect crisp morning for driving to Work in the Doll! She She drove perfect, and charged nice. It was a little warm Going home, but the doll kept cool. I just sweat on my back because of the vinyl seats. It all makes it worth it when people give you thumbs up. one guy in a late Model Tacoma had a Ahh-Ooga horn, he honked at me and gave a thumbs up. A couple girls were smiling at me, in the minivan next to me. Couple kids on E-bikes yelling something teen-age-ish! I like those kind of days just cruising.!
Finally got a full day to work on ‘33! I’m going to pull all the trim off the top, and silicone and seal the whole thing. Make it water proof again, hopefully! When I was doing the top, I was having trouble with the silicone setting up too soon and getting everywhere, so I thought well the rain gutters will keep the water from getting in there! WRONG-GO!!! since we’re probably gonna move to Oklahoma or somewhere in the Midwest, and they have downpours all the time, I better seal this car up. Also, I have to pull the rear window and re-silicone it!!! And silicone the wiper plugs in the front!!! Hey, it’s not like these cars come with instructions! I tried to find ways to do the top from old magazines, and all they had was that aftermarket Giuliano’s plastic/rubber T-lock trim, which sticks up it looks ugly as hell! Couldn’t find A video on the original trim and tack-strip! So I just did what I could, and reverse engineered it as I took it apart! At least it was there before! And I was able to reuse the original tack-strip. (if you go back to my early builds, you’ll see when I did the top) I just put some industrial weatherstripping over it To hold the staples down better, which that seems to be working! I’ll keep you posted!!!
I think I found a few of the spots, I put some silicone in the front part and then quit when I was installing it the first time but I think what I’m gonna do now is really clean it up with some rubbing alcohol, and then put a skim coat over the whole thing where the trim covers and then before it’s fully tacked, all start screwing it down and then put silicone on each screw, and then a slight bit of silicone before I put the rubber in the little channel that’s about all I can do . I think part of the issue was when I was putting the top together, I was trying to drill the holes as I went because all the old holes got lost and so I think it’s going in through some of those and the new screws so now that I’ve marked all the holes where they are I will take care of one at a time. Live and learn!!!!
Now I know why I gave up on the silicone last time!! I got more on the paint and more on me than in the spot that it needs to go!!! Oh well, it looks like ****! But maybe it won’t leak this time! I just gotta put the trim over it to see if it covers most of it!!!
I think I can use a Q-tip or something to get silicone inside the little channel to put the rubber in there
So I’ve had some guys with 33-34s back when I was working on my top years ago, that didn’t have the stock trim and tack-strip so they didn’t know what it looked like, so here I’m showing it up close, because usually they’re missing because they rusted away, but my dad had this one chromed years ago to give it an accent To the grille bumpers door handles. Originally, I think nails held it down to the tack-strip, but since we’ve done the top, we’ve used screws, I had to grind the heads down to fit in the channel, and also once the screw is tightened down, I have to flatten the top of it a little bit so this little rubber strip can fit in there once it’s all done, because it kinda has some edges on it that pop in there it’s hard to see in the pictures, but basically it’s kind of like an early version of an O-ring, but with some edges on it.
Well I got most of of it off. I’ll work at it a little bit at a time! I think it oughta seal though now it’ll never be 100% waterproof, Because of the doors and all that, but the roof is important to me and the rear window.
Hopefully, I remember to cut off the brain Stabbers after It dries, Cause you know, I’ll shank my brain cause I’ll forget!! Lol!
The life…. Of a hoodless Hot Rod before its bath! ****er still has a bunch of small leaks. At least now I know where they’re coming from but most of the top is Dry underneath.!!! Getting ready for Father’s Day run next weekend can’t believe it’s been a year already!
Thanks! Its a Cal-Custom Style for 4 barrels, Made by Arias Components they make A lot of 60’s slingshot Dragster scoops Heres a few better Pics
I’m determined to make it 95% at least! Cant do anything about the water between the gl*** and the body on the qtr panels, except cat whiskers, or a rubber strip to slow down the splashing into the side of the rear seat -and floor, at least diverting it to the bottom and out the weep holes would be nice.
Well…. I tried. The last Flathead my Pops Built, is gone… The “V8 Estate” is no more, my Pops last cl***ic car…. He is done. Money won over legacy… I guess once my Flathead dies… the ‘33 Doll Will get a 289-302 OHV! The Old Doll that he once had….will get a new life, and a new Generation… Flatty’s are too slow anyway!
Trying to get the doll ready for the car show tomorrow and I got sidetracked trying to fix the little leaks. I had, pulled the rear window and broke it. But I found where it was leaking between the rubber and the gl*** not around the edge so I cut the inner edge off had a spare window basically glued it in and then use the frame to hold it so hopefully it won’t leak now!
Well I would say, that the Rods&Relics car show was a success! So much better in the park on the gr***, then spread all over downtown. It was almost to capacity! I’d say 500-600 cars? By Noon! I got there at 6:00 My Favorite was the A coupe with the nailhead, and Ford 8-N tractor hood and Grille!
I like that one too—well executed with the hood and grille; it looks really great. Thanks for the photos. Best regards, Harald
The Jalopy Journal
