I building a 331 hemi for my 1931 dodge coupe. I picked up a half done 331 chrysler hemi 1956 short block with a cam that I can't id. The only numbers on it are F.194 and P 7745. Can any1 help me find the brand and cam specs? TY
No specific info to offer, but, a couple of thoughts..... If the cam shows much usage them why bother defining its origin? If it was a new core to start it could be re-used but only after a re-grind. If it is really really clean then you can send it out to someone with a CamDoctor setup (or something similar) and have the profile mapped to see if it is a usable grind. We charge $30 plus freight, last time I checked CompCams was about $20 or so, not sure about the others. On cams with suspect, or potentially interesting history, we might check the profile before regrinding to see what was used. It is very possible that the stamped numbers are from an old timey regrinder so it may, or may not, be cut again. Condition rules. .
Thanks. I should have added that the engine builder said it was in great condition so I told him to use it with new lifters. (The engine has been together now for a while.) I think he told me it was 514 lift at the spring at the time it was apart which I thought would be pretty choppy as I was thinking was more than my 507 lift cam in my pontiac 455 but he said I shouldnt look at it that way. I dont quite understand the technical aspects of a cam only the basics.
That would be alot of lift with stock rockers. How about duration and overlap? What else was done with regards to springs, pushrods and such? .
You could "map" the cam yourself with a dial indicator and degree wheel. Total lift and duration are only part of the story.
The op says the engine is together so I didn't suggest doing this. I do have the instructions on my web site if he is interested, but, much harder to do with an ***embled engine. .
He rebuilt the entire engine. Reground rocker arms, new HH springs retainers etc with adjustable push rods n , 2'' vavles, 340 oil pump kit, windage tray, screw in head studs etc
I think that's called "finger printing" the cam... It might also require the use of machinist V-blocks...
Finally got the engine running and it looks like the cam has to come out. The motor doesn't idle well and the valves along the top rails are kinda noisey. We took the oil filter apart very clean. I spoke to Bob at HH recommends pull the cam. I'm wondering if its a 392 cam now or if its a solid cam or both.