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Technical 34 Ford cowl vent install

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by grdra1, May 6, 2025.

  1. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 680

    grdra1
    Member

    I have a fibregl*** 34 coupe that I plan to install a cowl vent into, I have an original cowl vent and a new steel cowl vent repair panel. I want to add panel to gl*** body by either gl***ing steel panel into body or re producing steel panel in fibregl*** and gl***ing to body. If I end up making panel in gl*** I will produce some extras to sell to others wanting to do the same thing. I need advice from anyone who has done this before and /or advice on producing a fibregl*** item from a steel sample. Thanks in advance. Glen 20250506_171149.jpg 20250506_171157.jpg 20250506_171138.jpg 20250506_171213.jpg 20250506_171242.jpg
     
  2. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 5,032

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    My 2 cents : there are some newer structural adhesives for the automotive use . Lots of OT stuff is held together with this stuff today . It good stuff and works well . I would trim to get the best fit possible “ glue “ the panel in place , finish over the joint and be done . Just my take on it .
     
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  3. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 8,758

    RodStRace
    Member

    @deathrowdave is correct, modern stuff is glued a lot!
    However, it isn't edge to edge (****ed) but lapped. You would want a lower flange to be the attachment point. It should have a deep enough step to be able to work with a 'gl*** body thickness.
     
  4. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 15,954

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    @RodStRace is correct about @deathrowdave being correct about gluing that panel. You need to sand the gl*** to create a mounting area, so the steel panel sits slightly lower that the cowl. I texture the back of the panel (glue side) to give the cement something to grip, the gl*** is porous after you remove the gelcoat so you may want to apply something to guarantee adhesion. Hoods are tough to join metal and gl*** because they are flexing and subject to m***ive heat changes. That panel should be just fine glued on the cowl though.
     
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  5. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 8,758

    RodStRace
    Member

    Actually, I was thinking of his remark about duplicating in gl***. I'd have a lower flange, grind/sand to fit under and glue in. Then just have a small gap to fill with kitty hair or do the full 'gl*** patch on top.
    Helped a friend bodywork the side gl*** cover panels on his OT Aspen to the steel shell. We tried to use the best stuff, but it still hairline cracked after paint.
     
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  6. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 17,583

    tb33anda3rd
    Member

    I think I would reproduce the opening and recess with layers of plywood gl***ed in and smoothed. this would make it strong enough to screw a hinge to and room to add a drain.
     
  7. CSPIDY
    Joined: Nov 15, 2020
    Posts: 958

    CSPIDY
    Member

    RodStRace and Bandit Billy like this.
  8. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 64,735

    HOTRODPRIMER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Try getting in touch with Barry (ratrod0) he built this gl*** 1932 5 window coupe and added a cowl vent, tilt windshield and a roll down rear window. HRP

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2025
  9. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 680

    grdra1
    Member

    Thanks for advice guys, seems that glueing steel panel to gl*** body could be the way to go. What glue would be recommended / what have others used. How would this differ from reproducing steel panel in fibregl*** and gl***ing in place. Wouldn't a fibregl*** panel eliminate any issues with dissimilar materials, or am I making to much work for myself. Glen
     
    SS327 likes this.
  10. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 17,583

    tb33anda3rd
    Member

    fibergl*** does not stick too well to steel . at least what I have experienced. I have coated the steel with plastic filler, which does stick to steel well, then put the fibergl*** to the plastic filler, which does stick to it well.
    I would just use gl*** and wood.
     
  11. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 5,032

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    3M Structural Adhesive for my choice
     
  12. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 8,758

    RodStRace
    Member

  13. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 680

    grdra1
    Member

    I recently purchased some Crestabond glue, ( not cheap ) industrial strength stuff - recommended by a guy who bonds gl*** scoops to steel bonnets. I will probably make a mold of vent in fibregl*** anyway ( mainly for the experience and to possibly sell a few to others wanting to add a vent to there gl*** bodies ). Anyway I started to recess body to accept vent. Thanks again for advice. Glen 20250515_102829.jpg 20250510_154235.jpg 20250510_164646.jpg 20250510_164704.jpg
     
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  14. TwistedMetal
    Joined: Nov 2, 2006
    Posts: 185

    TwistedMetal
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    I used Lord Fusor bonding agent to bond this steel firewall I built to gl***. At the time the 3M stuff required a special gun. I think the Lord fuser used just a caulk gun. Did this about 8 years ago. Has held up well. no cracks to the bond or paint.
    upload_2025-5-15_6-59-55.jpeg
     
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  15. s.e.charles
    Joined: Apr 25, 2018
    Posts: 552

    s.e.charles

    i think bonding dissimilar materials always contributes to sleepless nights. ymmv.
     
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  16. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 5,032

    deathrowdave
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    from NKy

    I’m thinking it’s a done deal now . You’d have to wreck the body to remove it once bonded
     
  17. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 680

    grdra1
    Member

    At this point in time I plan to glue steel panel in place ( although making one in fibregl*** is still an option ), today I fabbed up a support frame that will hold panel in place and have provision to hinge vent. I still need to fab up handle ***embly to open / close vent. I have a plan in place and hopefully will fab handle on next day off, a few pics. Glen 20250601_143134.jpg 20250601_143140.jpg 20250601_143152.jpg 20250601_144350.jpg 20250601_171412.jpg 20250601_174303.jpg 20250601_174306.jpg 20250601_174405.jpg
     
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  18. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 680

    grdra1
    Member

    I glued vent panel in place today, hopefully the Crestabond glue system does what it says, a few pics. Glen 20250616_162758.jpg 20250616_162801.jpg 20250616_162809.jpg 20250616_162811.jpg
     
  19. s.e.charles
    Joined: Apr 25, 2018
    Posts: 552

    s.e.charles

    this project reminds me of a mud puddle: you can't tell how deep it is from the top.

    never realized how much work would go into what, from outward appearance, looks like a little hole in the car.

    kudos for such a thorough & neat job.
     
  20. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 680

    grdra1
    Member

    Thanks S.E. Charles for kind comments, some times this project feels more like quicksand than a mud puddle, but it takes small steps to achieve the end goal, lots and lots and lots of small steps. Today I applied some fibregl*** reinforced filler, still need a final skim but its another small step. A couple of pics, Glen 20250617_174049.jpg 20250617_174051.jpg
     
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  21. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 680

    grdra1
    Member

    Started fabbing hinge ***embly today, only problem was there was no room for lever under dash as brake booster in the way so I decided to poke it out the dash, happy with the result. Still a lot to do - I may make a a nice surround lever either riveted or bead rolled or both. I also have to work how to keep open and closed. Glen 20250705_131124.jpg 20250705_131135.jpg 20250705_145829.jpg 20250705_145837.jpg 20250705_145842.jpg
     
  22. s.e.charles
    Joined: Apr 25, 2018
    Posts: 552

    s.e.charles

    pretty elegant solution to the operation phase.

    Q: above the cowl lever is a little bump in the dashboard. is this where the turn handle for a tilt-out windshield mechanism would go?
     
  23. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 680

    grdra1
    Member

    I like the term elegant, I plan to shorten lever and make a fancy bezel / surround that incorporates a way to hold open and lock shut, I have a plan in mind, just need a couple of days of work to fabricate. Yes that little bump is for the windshield winder, I have a complete winder ***embly and plan to make the window wind out if possible, I have a couple of old front window surrounds but still need the bottom section in order to fabricate a complete screen. If for some reason I cannot have a wind out screen ( there is not much room in there for the winder ***embly ) I will still put winder handle there to simulate a working screen. Glen
     
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  24. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 680

    grdra1
    Member

    I spent about 2 hours in shed today, this is what I came up with. I plan to make a little smaller and shape similar to center of dash and recess in by machining around the inside edges of bezel, a few pics, Glen 20250707_171343.jpg 20250707_173633.jpg 20250707_173638.jpg
     
  25. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 680

    grdra1
    Member

    A few pics of todays progress, I now have a working vent. I'm not 100% sure if I love it but I do like it, I will wait until I have gauges, steering wheel, glove box etc. and then see how it looks. Glen 20250709_173318.jpg 20250709_173324.jpg 20250709_173339.jpg 20250709_173347.jpg
     
  26. s.e.charles
    Joined: Apr 25, 2018
    Posts: 552

    s.e.charles

    i feel cooler already.
     
  27. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 5,032

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    Nice work , glad it worked out well for you .
     
  28. pprather
    Joined: Jan 10, 2007
    Posts: 8,957

    pprather
    Member

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