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Technical 34 Ford cowl vent install

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by grdra1, May 6, 2025.

  1. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 627

    grdra1
    Member

    I have a fibreglass 34 coupe that I plan to install a cowl vent into, I have an original cowl vent and a new steel cowl vent repair panel. I want to add panel to glass body by either glassing steel panel into body or re producing steel panel in fibreglass and glassing to body. If I end up making panel in glass I will produce some extras to sell to others wanting to do the same thing. I need advice from anyone who has done this before and /or advice on producing a fibreglass item from a steel sample. Thanks in advance. Glen 20250506_171149.jpg 20250506_171157.jpg 20250506_171138.jpg 20250506_171213.jpg 20250506_171242.jpg
     
  2. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 4,903

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    My 2 cents : there are some newer structural adhesives for the automotive use . Lots of OT stuff is held together with this stuff today . It good stuff and works well . I would trim to get the best fit possible “ glue “ the panel in place , finish over the joint and be done . Just my take on it .
     
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  3. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 7,839

    RodStRace
    Member

    @deathrowdave is correct, modern stuff is glued a lot!
    However, it isn't edge to edge (butted) but lapped. You would want a lower flange to be the attachment point. It should have a deep enough step to be able to work with a 'glass body thickness.
     
  4. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 15,330

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    @RodStRace is correct about @deathrowdave being correct about gluing that panel. You need to sand the glass to create a mounting area, so the steel panel sits slightly lower that the cowl. I texture the back of the panel (glue side) to give the cement something to grip, the glass is porous after you remove the gelcoat so you may want to apply something to guarantee adhesion. Hoods are tough to join metal and glass because they are flexing and subject to massive heat changes. That panel should be just fine glued on the cowl though.
     
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  5. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 7,839

    RodStRace
    Member

    Actually, I was thinking of his remark about duplicating in glass. I'd have a lower flange, grind/sand to fit under and glue in. Then just have a small gap to fill with kitty hair or do the full 'glass patch on top.
    Helped a friend bodywork the side glass cover panels on his OT Aspen to the steel shell. We tried to use the best stuff, but it still hairline cracked after paint.
     
    Kiwi 4d likes this.
  6. I think I would reproduce the opening and recess with layers of plywood glassed in and smoothed. this would make it strong enough to screw a hinge to and room to add a drain.
     
  7. CSPIDY
    Joined: Nov 15, 2020
    Posts: 900

    CSPIDY
    Member

    RodStRace and Bandit Billy like this.
  8. Try getting in touch with Barry (ratrod0) he built this glass 1932 5 window coupe and added a cowl vent, tilt windshield and a roll down rear window. HRP

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2025
  9. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 627

    grdra1
    Member

    Thanks for advice guys, seems that glueing steel panel to glass body could be the way to go. What glue would be recommended / what have others used. How would this differ from reproducing steel panel in fibreglass and glassing in place. Wouldn't a fibreglass panel eliminate any issues with dissimilar materials, or am I making to much work for myself. Glen
     
    SS327 likes this.
  10. fiberglass does not stick too well to steel . at least what I have experienced. I have coated the steel with plastic filler, which does stick to steel well, then put the fiberglass to the plastic filler, which does stick to it well.
    I would just use glass and wood.
     
  11. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 4,903

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    3M Structural Adhesive for my choice
     
  12. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 7,839

    RodStRace
    Member

  13. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 627

    grdra1
    Member

    I recently purchased some Crestabond glue, ( not cheap ) industrial strength stuff - recommended by a guy who bonds glass scoops to steel bonnets. I will probably make a mold of vent in fibreglass anyway ( mainly for the experience and to possibly sell a few to others wanting to add a vent to there glass bodies ). Anyway I started to recess body to accept vent. Thanks again for advice. Glen 20250515_102829.jpg 20250510_154235.jpg 20250510_164646.jpg 20250510_164704.jpg
     
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  14. TwistedMetal
    Joined: Nov 2, 2006
    Posts: 174

    TwistedMetal
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    I used Lord Fusor bonding agent to bond this steel firewall I built to glass. At the time the 3M stuff required a special gun. I think the Lord fuser used just a caulk gun. Did this about 8 years ago. Has held up well. no cracks to the bond or paint.
    upload_2025-5-15_6-59-55.jpeg
     
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  15. s.e.charles
    Joined: Apr 25, 2018
    Posts: 471

    s.e.charles

    i think bonding dissimilar materials always contributes to sleepless nights. ymmv.
     
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  16. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 4,903

    deathrowdave
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    from NKy

    I’m thinking it’s a done deal now . You’d have to wreck the body to remove it once bonded
     
  17. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 627

    grdra1
    Member

    At this point in time I plan to glue steel panel in place ( although making one in fibreglass is still an option ), today I fabbed up a support frame that will hold panel in place and have provision to hinge vent. I still need to fab up handle assembly to open / close vent. I have a plan in place and hopefully will fab handle on next day off, a few pics. Glen 20250601_143134.jpg 20250601_143140.jpg 20250601_143152.jpg 20250601_144350.jpg 20250601_171412.jpg 20250601_174303.jpg 20250601_174306.jpg 20250601_174405.jpg
     
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  18. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 627

    grdra1
    Member

    I glued vent panel in place today, hopefully the Crestabond glue system does what it says, a few pics. Glen 20250616_162758.jpg 20250616_162801.jpg 20250616_162809.jpg 20250616_162811.jpg
     
  19. s.e.charles
    Joined: Apr 25, 2018
    Posts: 471

    s.e.charles

    this project reminds me of a mud puddle: you can't tell how deep it is from the top.

    never realized how much work would go into what, from outward appearance, looks like a little hole in the car.

    kudos for such a thorough & neat job.
     
  20. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 627

    grdra1
    Member

    Thanks S.E. Charles for kind comments, some times this project feels more like quicksand than a mud puddle, but it takes small steps to achieve the end goal, lots and lots and lots of small steps. Today I applied some fibreglass reinforced filler, still need a final skim but its another small step. A couple of pics, Glen 20250617_174049.jpg 20250617_174051.jpg
     
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  21. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 627

    grdra1
    Member

    Started fabbing hinge assembly today, only problem was there was no room for lever under dash as brake booster in the way so I decided to poke it out the dash, happy with the result. Still a lot to do - I may make a a nice surround lever either riveted or bead rolled or both. I also have to work how to keep open and closed. Glen 20250705_131124.jpg 20250705_131135.jpg 20250705_145829.jpg 20250705_145837.jpg 20250705_145842.jpg
     
  22. s.e.charles
    Joined: Apr 25, 2018
    Posts: 471

    s.e.charles

    pretty elegant solution to the operation phase.

    Q: above the cowl lever is a little bump in the dashboard. is this where the turn handle for a tilt-out windshield mechanism would go?
     
  23. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 627

    grdra1
    Member

    I like the term elegant, I plan to shorten lever and make a fancy bezel / surround that incorporates a way to hold open and lock shut, I have a plan in mind, just need a couple of days of work to fabricate. Yes that little bump is for the windshield winder, I have a complete winder assembly and plan to make the window wind out if possible, I have a couple of old front window surrounds but still need the bottom section in order to fabricate a complete screen. If for some reason I cannot have a wind out screen ( there is not much room in there for the winder assembly ) I will still put winder handle there to simulate a working screen. Glen
     
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  24. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 627

    grdra1
    Member

    I spent about 2 hours in shed today, this is what I came up with. I plan to make a little smaller and shape similar to center of dash and recess in by machining around the inside edges of bezel, a few pics, Glen 20250707_171343.jpg 20250707_173633.jpg 20250707_173638.jpg
     
  25. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 627

    grdra1
    Member

    A few pics of todays progress, I now have a working vent. I'm not 100% sure if I love it but I do like it, I will wait until I have gauges, steering wheel, glove box etc. and then see how it looks. Glen 20250709_173318.jpg 20250709_173324.jpg 20250709_173339.jpg 20250709_173347.jpg
     
  26. s.e.charles
    Joined: Apr 25, 2018
    Posts: 471

    s.e.charles

    i feel cooler already.
     
  27. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 4,903

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    Nice work , glad it worked out well for you .
     

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