Projects 34 Pickup New Project - So many missing parts!

The sheetmetal looks to be in really good shape on your truck - you're fortunate to have a great start! Best of luck with it and keep coming back to the HAMB or the Fordbarn for help.

Just don't mention that SBC too much at the Fordbarn - or you'll get some serious flathead shade thrown at yah! There are tons of good folks on both sites - just that the HAMB is a lot more aligned with vintage HotRods.

 

Just don't mention that SBC too much at the Fordbarn - or you'll get some serious flathead shade thrown at yah! There are tons of good folks on both sites - just that the HAMB is a lot more aligned with vintage HotRods.[/QUOTE]
Its funny, I've been coming here for prolly 20 years now and heard that way back then haha!

So tell me if this is the stock axle or an old drop?

 

that's a old dropped axle. Originals are more level all the way across.

 

Maybe a 3" drop axle? Its interesting as far as I can tell all the front suspension looks original / OEM style. Getting close to busting off sheet metal. I'll post pics of the rear suspension and see what you guys can tell me.

 

I mixed up the pics - the one that you showed in your post is dropped, the one right above this post is not. You also have the later round-back spindles (which is good).

Your firewall looks stock, except for the ugly dual-master cylinder holes in it. Talk to Early V8-Garage and look at their brake kits for stock 34 frames - really nice stuff. They're a bit pricey, but well worth the costs. Depending on your skill levels and time, you could probably get away with just the master cylinder related stuff - then use stock 34 pedals.

 

Dropped 34 axle, 40 spindles with aftermarket drag link hoop on the driver side, modified shock link eyelet on the top of spring perches, and it looks like later shocks.

 

That body looks to be in exceptional condition.

 

The only rot appears to be one stake pocket. Otherwise light rust over I think OEM paint for the most part. Shoot, the bed is super nice. The steel bottom is rock solid and mostly undamaged. I'll get the box off and flipped over next week.

 

Box is free but need someone to help me flip it over onto my work cart. Engine is 75% assembled but what I'm hoping to get from you gents is as suggestion on wiring harness. I wont need a ton of circuits. Basic hot rod loom will suffice. Prices on the net are all over the board on these things. Thanks, Dave

 

Rebel wiring will have what you need.
http://rebelwire.com/

And he has good support for his customers.

@REBEL43

 

Rad no fit shell. Can someone tell me the correct width of a 34 truck rad? My new one is 17" outside to outside. The Drake truck shell mount brackets don't reach out far enough. The upper seem in the right height position but not wide enough. The bottom brackets do not line up with the hole in the shell. they are too low and not wide enough. Pics below. Let me know if you need another pic. If its just the width I can make brackets but the depth has to be spot on since all the sheet metal lines up with shell.

 

I'll measure my radiator tomorrow. It was re-cored, but still fits right.

I know I said I didn't know before, but I DO know that my truck was never repainted. It has been that color it's entire life, so that is an original color combo.

 

If yours has never been painted then I have all OEM original paint parts that seem to match. Although there were prolly more black fenders than any other color. Now if I can just figure out that grill shell and rad. The shell is the dove gray and looks correct in every way. Wish I had the stock rad to measure :-( I never seem to work on 2 of the same car. I always get something "new" and the learning curve starts all over.

 

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Just looking for stock 34 Ford truck rad width outside to outside please....

 

That looks more like a 32 radiator or maybe even 30 -31 model A.

 

I need some advice. Being I've not assembled an early Ford with a hood/sides (always had the open look prior) I'm not sure how to proceed. I have a decent hood with sides, stock grill shell and aftermarket rad that I'm not sure has the mounts in the correct place. The cab is on the frame with front fenders and need a starting point on how to get these parts in proper alignment. I bolted the rad to the cross member and set the hood and grill shell on it. The front is way too low. Grill and hood slope down a lot. I dont have any of the fabric material that cushions both ends of the hood with cowl/ shell.. I'm thinking I'll need that attached to start this fitting. Since everything is based off the shell I'm kinda lost here. For example, I'm not sure how close to the fender the hood sides get as in at the bottom when latched. Are they a 1/4" off the fender? 1/2"? And I mean the fender flat that rests on the frame. I have the rad mount kit with the springs but there are no instructions with it. Does the rad sit right on the cross member with maybe the leather pad between them or is there a spacer or? Again it seems the rad needs to come up a lot. I'll post pics later this afternoon. Thanks for any advice, Dave

 

Pics. The side shot does not show how low the front of the hood is based on the bead the runs off he cowl and onto the hood. Should the shell be resting like it is in the pic, on the fender flat or is there a gap?

 

is there any of the rubber/lace in the cowl and grille? If there is, might be old and has really broke down over the years. That is what the hood top and sides sit on and pretty much determine where the hood sits as the latches will pull it into the lace to secure it. If its just sitting on the metal of the grille and cowl it will sit low. My grille shell on my 33 pickup pretty much sits on the fender.

 

Mine is close to the same. Bigger gap at the back of the hood and a slight gap under the shell. About a finger width gap between the shell and fender. Hope these pics help

 

sorry, forgot to reply. 17” core width

 

The rubber pad with the radiator mounting kit goes between the frame and the rad. Spring goes on top of the rad flange with the bolt from the top. Nut underneath

 

There is a 1934 radiator for sale on ebay 850 they are the same for car or truck, I tried to make a 32 radiator that I got from a friend nothing but a 33 34 radiator will work if your are going to run full fender and hood

 

All very helpful info! I ordered the lacing for shell and cowl, new latches and stainless hood top hinge. My shell is definitely low. And that is really odd on the core width Jeff34. Mine is 17" but the little brackets don't even come close to reaching out to the inside of the shell. And I guess the middle bracket on the rad sides is for some kind of hood side retainment bracket? Shaped like a pointed dart on one end?

 

Maybe my approach is different; but I would put the cowl & hood lacing on, match the hood top & sides to the cowl setting clearance to the fender, match the shell to hood, and make new brackets that hold the shell to radiator. Possible you may have to shim the cab to get hood to match cowl and fender tops, possible you may have to space the radiator up at the frame mounts, possible you may have to make new cowl to radiator support rods, possible you may not be able to get all the gaps perfect, they were not perfect to start with like modern cars, remember aluminum radiators for old Fords don't usually fit the way sellers represent they will. When you think it is all good; step way back to see if it looks right and tune it up as needed.

 

More pictures of the shell mounting. The tabs are bent out some to match the shell. My rad was re-cored, but the width is the same.

 

I used the mounting holes on one side for my overflow tank. The one on the other side is not attached to anything.

 

Looks like a nice project! Looks pretty solid. Here's a pic of my old beat up farm truck project.Have it stored at my buddies place. Will be following your thread for inspiration.

 

Yes! I figured that I only have the cowl and fenders to really to guide the hood spacing which would dictate where the rad/ grill goes. I found that the cab is resting on the frame with none of the wood under it. I have the wood kit so I'll start with setting the cab first. Both doors are low by about .75" at the rear. I'm hoping that's due to the cab not being mounted properly. Big domino affect here.
Jeff34, ya man, those pics help a ton. I'll be bending some brackets.
51 Mercules, how can you keep your hands off that truck? Looks like a fully assembled original... come on man, dig in!

 

Oh hey, can someone post a pic of where the hood side bracket is mounted? I don't have them and I don't see an unused hole on my frame for it.

 

I don't recognize that part. What does it do?