My kind of thread "Low Buck".I'll be following this thread.I acquired a 33 pickup & lots of parts a few years ago fo hardly anything.I was wondering what rear end and brakes are you using.Thank you!
Looking good so far! Lynx is Australian, and still around by the looks of it ... http://www.lynxcorp.com.au/main.php?idx=home
Hey Kev, If you move your cab back and your radiator/grill forward and you are thinking of running a hood, check out my solution below. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=623660&highlight=easy+hood
'bout time you stated a new build. With all of the raw material laying around I'm sure this one will come together fast. Frank
51 Mercules....I am using a Dana44 rearend from a Ford pickup, 56 F100 I think. It has 3.70 gears and 5 1/2" bolt pattern so I can run early Ford 16" wheels. wutnxt...nice job! I also did a tech thread about building a hood top on a friends pickup. I probably will make a hood top for this truck one day.
Flowmiester....Thanks for taking the time to measure the window opening, Looks like my cab is chopped 3" Simon...Thanks for the info on the fuel block. I guess those Aussies made those to feed all those Holden sixes with triple SU's Thanks McFly and all you other guys for the positive comments.
good to see you building something again kev. excellent looks like you cleared some other project out of the drive way also, less crowded?
Looking good Kev, love the use of the Berry & Chung gear. Ive just modified a 13 inch B&C 5 spoke Radar look alike mag centre and had them recast in 15 inch for the rear of our bucket, A pair of those would look bloody good on your truck!
Kev, thanks for sharing this and your other builds and threads with us. They are very informational, inspirational and enjoyable. I especially like how resourceful and creative you are. I've been waiting for this thread to start since you mentioned it on your Willys pickup thread. Thanks again.
Nice little project Kev, Rob Campbell had a Dana 44 in the original project T so they're pretty solid. That diff ended up in the bucket I built (and sold). Scotty Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Damn dude, I now have a wicked-sick case of shop envy. Ima go tell my garage I hate it...... the metric system? never heard of it.......
My main goal at the moment is to get the front suspension done, front crossmember in and engine mounts completed. The model A front crossmember is too narrow for the 34 frame so the top was extended each side so it can bolt to the top rails. Then I made plates to kind of box in the area behind the crossmember and tie it together. The area in the center was cut out and replaced with a bolt in section of 2"x1/4" to support the front engine mounts. I also had to notch the RH rear of the crossmember to maximize room for radiator hose drop down/cross over. Next I tacked a piece of tubing across the top of the frame and removed the center from the crossmember. It is cherry and I'll be putting it in the classifieds. Then I made this plate that will mount the ends of the radius rods using some Pete and Jakes Urethane bushed ends, I got the ends and a similar plate at a swap meet years ago for $20. Tabs are cut from that plate. Feels good to finally put this stuff to use. For the front suspension I used the wishbone from this junk front end that I drug home from somewhere. I'm not sure what year it is but I'm sure someone in H.A.M.B. land can let us know. The ideal set up would be the nice long 32 or 33-34 wishbone but it seemed I could get a very similar look using this if I cut the front ends off, turned them over and put them back on in a lower position for tie rod clearance. I actually turned the rods over too so the welded seam would be on the bottom. This is how I figure out the angle when putting the ends back on the radius rods. The 2 clamps on the front crossmember are holding the suspension at ride hight, the pipe clamp on the far side is holding the axle straight in the chassis and the pipe wrench and jack are holding the axle at 6 degrees caster. With everything double checked I could tack weld the radius rods together. The ends were weld prepped first with a deep V for full penetration and then tig welded on. For more strength I welded a 3/16" plate on the inside to tie things together even better. Tacking ends on. Ignore the temporary tie rod, that was for pushing it around for the past few years. I notched the frame for spring clearance, this thing will sit pretty low. I still need to make 1/4" spacers for the perch bolts. Here you can see the bellhousing mounting brackets. They tie in to the center plate. Driver side will need some modifications for shift linkage clearance and pedals, I will figure that out when the trans is in place. Here is the front engine mount.
I got the greasy old Y block cleaned up and a fresh coat of black engine paint on. The front frame horns had these tabs welded on years ago and when I cut them off there was a lot of pitting, a few cracks and the front edge was pretty much gone. I ended up cutting some 1/8" plates to shape and welding them on the inside, then building up the front edge with weld and grinding to shape. Stuff like this sure soaks up the hours. I also added a little filler to some pitting on the frame rails.
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