Thats a nice little truck Kev, especially like your Y-block. Sunny day here in the San Joaquin Vally, and I actually got to work on my 34 for a few hours.
Kev! Coming up on FOUR months with no progress report. Cmon man, by your usual standards you'd have built three more cars, lol! But seriously, enquiring minds (i.e. Nosy bastards) want to see what's going on.
Dam kev that truck is looking sweet had to look twice at the one picture of the truck with the 34 behind it because it looked like Nads coupe the chops are about the same how about some up dates and pictures of the 34 great work as always
Love the bracketry for the original rear motor mounts. Too bad you weren't able to use them but all is not lost...............I'm stealing the idea to use with my 59 Pontiac bellhousing in my 34 chassis. Thanks!
Nice little truck your doing I have always liked the 32 33 34 Ford PU's, I envy you that you can just push things out of your shop and jump on too an other vehicle, being here in South Dakota the cold and snow can put a slow grind on a guys build first off have to get the shop warm and then hope the sun will come out to help make it a pleasant day. Well you always kick a great build so I know it will turn out great.
Made a little more progress. I got the transmission adapted to the Y block and made some rear mounts to tie into the mounts I made for the old bellhousing. I had to replace the truck bellhousing with a car one (3/4" shorter and no side mounts) so I made a call to John at Big M Automotive and had one in no time. Adapting the SROD 3 speed (81 pickup) turned out to be pretty simple. The collar on the front was a little too big to fit in the hole in the Y block bellhousing so we took that off and turned it down in the lathe and bolted it back on. Next we ground the sides off the bolts that hold it in place. Then with the bellhousing on a table we dropped the trans in place and scribed the bolt holes in the bellhousing onto the face of the trans, It turned out all of the holes ended up in a perfect spot with no interference. So I drilled the holes, the only other thing that had to be done was cut 3/16" off the front of the main shaft and use a clutch disc with the spline on the trans. To make it fit the truck I had to cut a big chunk out of the center plate which I will be putting back in only 1" lower. I figured this was coming but didn't know where to cut until the trans was adapted. Since I lost my side mounts when swapping bellhousings I decided to make some plates to tie it all back together rather than make new side engine mounts and tail mount for the trans. Using the trans ears worked out pretty good. Everything is thick and gussetted and lower left bolt goes through the bellhousing so I'm not worried about busting an ear off. I have seen ears broken off trans cases before but usually from uneven over tightening or dropping.
I also got a start on my steering. I am using a f100 steering box (mid 50's). So far I have cut the flange off and got it mocked into place to check driving position. Due to the body being moved back on the chassis the steering wheel ends up closer to the dash and I like that, more room for getting in and out and comfortable driving position. There is just barely enough hand room by the door but I can't move the column to the right so it will be fine. The shifter ended up in a good spot also. I will be putting a different arm on it a few inches to the right and it will be easy to get it just right. To mount the column to the dash I found a crusty old Moon column drop that will work great if I make a spacer for the top. I am going to run a remote oil filter due to steering box interference.
Truck is looking fantastic! Great combination of parts and expert craftsmanship. Sure could use a picture of that seat...What is it??
Very cool project. Which do you enjoy more the building or the driving? just curious because you always something cool you are building
I added an alum. T-10 to my Y-block back in 1968 or 69. And no lathe work was needed, but it was a side shift..Used Mustang rear springs 64 thru 70 are cheap. I reversed them (longer part now to the rear )added a set of brackets (off to the rear of the ordg. spreader bar to extend the length for the spring . and made my rear setup super cheap. Also done in 1970, My pickup is a 33 .
greaser.....Here are a few pics of the seat. I have had it so long I don't remember exactly what it came out of but it is the passenger seat from a big truck, possibly a Sterling. The bottom is a good fit but the back is a couple of inches too narrow, I can live with it. I may end up moving it back by removing the stock 34 seat support wood and I will probably lift the front a little when I mount it. You sit very low in the truck with the seat sitting flat on the floor. Enloe.....you stumped me with that question, I enjoy a day in the garage fully, even if I don't get anything productive done. It is my happy place. I really love driving my Willys around too, whether it's blasting down the drag strip or just cruising to work on empty streets in the morning, or in traffic on the way home, love it! It's like asking which kid is your favorite. Speaking of that I enjoy your thread about what you get up to with your kids, you are an awesome father, much respect! sidevalve8ba.....I have some 34 pedals I plan on using but they won't be going in the stock location. I don't have it fully figured out yet but with a few modifications I think I can make them work. I will be notching the leg of the crossmember by the clutch fork for pedal clearance and mounting the pedal assembly behind it. With a tab welded to the bottom of the clutch ledal where it pivots I think I can make it pull the clutch fork.
Thanks, I really appreciate the kind words. I love my "Crumb Snatchers". My son and I are less than 40 days away from our annual "Guy Trip" we are headed to the Hot Rod Reunion in Bowling Green Ky.
This looks like a great build Kev! Now that's what I call going green . That Model 40 is basically paying you to build it with all of the stuff that you've either had,swapped or sold. Congrats on another fine build.
Made some good progress on the rear suspension. I am using this pair of springs that was donated by a friend who had no use for them. He doesn't remember what they came off. They are 1 3/4" wide and 47" eye to eye loaded. I have a pile of u bolts and plates to choose from and found these that will work fine. Writing on them says 55 Chevy. Here is some hardware I had on hand that will work , leftover speedway mounts, some unknown shackles and a bunch of urethane bushings that will work once I put some sleeves in the spring ends, lucky I had some tubing that worked fine. I made up these front spring hanger plates then will welded them in to the side of the frame. I made up this bolt in crossmember to hold the shackles. I changed my mind on the rear end and decided to go with a Ford 9 inch. I have had this cut off early smooth back housing for many years and I also have a couple of posi third members, 4.10 and 3.75. I will probably use the 3.75. I decided to make the housing 2" narrower than the rearend that was under there. I have one axle that will work but I will have to have an axle made for the other side later. I also need brakes and drums. Since the rear end is further back than it used to be I had to notch the rear crossmember and it will get more mods as I want to C notch the frame. If it stays it will get boxed where I notched it. I will probably turn the spring plates around and mount the shocks in front of the rear end with their own cross member.
While you are working on it you might want to install a drain plug on the bottom of your housing. It will save you a lot of swearing when you have to change the pumpkin at a later date.
What made you decide against the F100 rear? I have a 53 Dana44 going under my 34 pick up and am very curious as to the change and the amount you had to cut out of the crossmember.
Turned out it wasn't a Dana 44, it was lighter, earlier truck maybe? It was a little wider than I liked, missing a brake drum, leaking pinion seal etc. To me the 9" was a better move. I would have no problem using a good condition Dana 44. I only went a little narrower because I had the option when making up the housing. My cab has been moved back 1 1/2" on the frame for engine clearance so the bed came back too. That means the rear end had to came back to center the wheels on the bed stampings. I don't think the rear cross member would need notching with the bed in the stock location.
Ok now that makes sense. The cab and bed on mine are in the stock location so it should fit with less mods. Is the rear the same width as an early bronco? Maybe you will lucky and the axles will fit.
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