Hey guys, Im trying to decide how to build my Tudor's front end.Actually I know how I want it but have some doubts. A little insight : - Stock 34' boxed frame. - 34' 3" dropped axle - Stock or similar reversed spring - 368 lincoln y-block engine - cross over steering My main questions are, what should I consider with that heavier engine ? What shocks would you recommend ? I was going to get a set of P&J shocks. Viper hairpins from P&Js will do ok ? Any other choice ? Since I'll be using cross steering I'll have to install a panhard bar. Should I consider a sway bar also or theres no need for it ? Thanks for any advice Diego
Looks like you have it figured out. I would use a panard bar but don't see the need for a front sway bar. Maybe a Deuce Factory rear sway bar. See if you can get a set of adjustable shocks. that way you can dial in the ride after you get it on the road. Also, if your going to use hairpins put an I-beam dropped axle in it. A tube axle won't be friendly to the twisting that a hairpin setup will induce in the axle. Frank
Sadly the Deuce Factory is out of business. P&J shocks are made by Monroe - I would look for something a little better. I use KYB Gas adjusts and paint them or, if you are feeling rich, Bil$tein now have some beautiful front shocks with upper covers like the P&Js, but shiny. I get my Bilsteins from Race Car Dynamics in El Cajon, CA - speak to Steve, he's really knowledgeable. http://rcdclassics.com/classics/indexhr/products/chrome/chromeshocks.htm
Theres a trillion KYB different models. Are this quality shocks ? Id rather get good than nice shocks. Thanks weasel.
Full fendered car? Start out with some Monroe painted gas shocks and see how they do. If you think you need shiny or more better damping qualities you should have the car figured out by then and you can make some better informed choices. Same thing with the front spring. A Posies Super Slider is a good way to go, but cleaning up, painting and using Teflon leaves in the stock spring is a good way to go. General consensus on sway bars is that one in the back is sufficient on a solid axle car. TCI carries a nice one, my pal used one on his full fendered 29 roadster. Generally, if you follow the popular builds you should come up with a good handling car. Considering where you live, using all the stock parts you can is a good way to go.
Hi C9, No fenders. Yes, stock springs are in good shape so Im gonna use them with teflon. Not quite sure about using ladder bars or four links for the rear...., is a sway bar a must for this application ?
I'd say so. We had a good discussion on this about 4-5 years back. The consensus from some very knowledgeable people was that even running a transverse rear spring a panhard and sway bar would make the car handle a lot better. At the time the car - 31 roadster on 32 frame rails running a parallel 4-link inside the frame ala drag race car - was slated for the dry lakes and the thinking went that even a small improvement in steering accuracy was worth the trouble to install the panhard. My 32 highboy roadster has transverse leafs up front, coilovers in the rear and disconnecting one link of the sway bar you can really get the car to rocking by hand when it's parked. With the sway bar re-connected you can't move it much. The car handles well on winding mountain roads.
I ran P&J front shocks with a mono-leaf front spring for several years. My only concern was that the steering seemed to feel every little studder in the road and the front end had a slight hop. I switched to the Bilstein AK1353 front shocks , a So-Cal black steering dampner and now the car is as smooth as a new car. Speedway also sells the Bilstein shock...Mike
Panhard installation should follow same principles as with coilovers ? I mean.., as slower as possible, etc ?
The Jalopy Journal
