Hi, Yes, it's me again. My 1957 Super Chief has a 347. I need to pull the motor to rebuild it. I had it hooked up to a hoist today and unbolted the transmission from the motor at the bell housing. The two separated and with a little prying I got about 1.5 inch space between the motor and trans. Then it stopped. I tried for hours to separate the two further but it seems the shaft won't break free. Jacks under the motor and the trans trying different angles. Then I tried leveling the two to eliminate the shaft binding but still won't budge - even with a crow bar. What the f**k am I doing wrong? Is there a trick to separating the motor from the trans? Maybe a special tool or angle or something? PLEASE HELP!!
Take the cover off the bottom of the torque converter and remove the ring of bolts… the converter needs to separate…drain it first . there should a plug or 2. get a big drain pan…
If you didn't drain the converter and remove the outer ring of bolts you won't get them apart without desytoring something. There are various snap rings holding the torus members to the input shaft. You can't just unbolt the trans at the aluminum bellhousing and yank it out. I just pulled mine a couple months ago, they're a beast. Here's some pics... The converter separates from the flywheel, the trans pulls back enough to clear the dowel pins and drops down out of the cast iron bellhousing. Open the converter and there are snap rings holding everything to the input shaft.
When you do get it apart, check the torus and input shaft, and front pump very carefully. You may have bent or damaged it by trying to pull it apart without removing the bolts that hold the torus together.
I have that exact one! God Bless Bill https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/
It's so much easier to take them out in one piece and then seperate. IMO. Easier being relative here.
I think there’s about six nuts on the engine side of the flywheel that secure the converter to the flywheel, the other six are in through holes and can stay until you decide to open the converter. Let us know how it goes.
Thanks All. I really appreciate the information. It's definitely putting me in the right direction. I plan on taking another stab at it next weekend.
So based on research, it looks like I need to: 1. Remove the under cover of torque converter to access flywheel bolts 2. Drain the torque converter 3. Remove the bell housing 4. Take out the ring of bolts connecting flywheel to torus (converter) 5. Separate motor from trans to access converter 6. Open the converter and undo snap rings to release input shaft 7. Motor should pull away from transmission Have I got this right?
If you are pulling the engine from the car but leaving the trans in, you might want to loosen the bolts where the cast iron bellhousing attaches to the engine before you start. Leave the two most accessible in and snug. To separate the trans from the engine just do #1, 2 and 4. (If pulling the engine, support the trans) Then remove the bolts holding the aluminum trans sub-housing to the cast iron bellhousing (aka “starter housing”) Pull the trans back (or engine forward) until the dowel pins disengage from the bellhousing and the flywheel. You may need to pry the converter (torus) loose from the flywheel - mine stuck a little. Be gentle, don’t bend anything. Once they separate, I don’t think you can lift the engine straight up and out because the cast iron bellhousing will hit the firewall. You might have to remove the bellhousing to engine bolts and finagle that bellhousing around and out the bottom. Then you should be able to remove the engine. Sorry that you’re struggling with this, Pontiac didn’t make it easy with their two bellhousing design. I pulled the trans and left the engine in place so it was slightly easier for me. Once the engine is out, there will be six nuts holding the front plate on the converter, but that doesn’t have to be opened unless you want to clean inside the converter, install a new front seal or inspect for damage.
A couple of things that might straighten up the removal. 1) It is a simple fluid coupling, not converter. 2) Unlike the older hydramatic, this is a controlled coupling hydramatic, which has a flex plate that connects torus cover to crankshaft. Instead of 30 bolts connecting torus to flywheel, this one has 4 nuts that connects torus cover to flex plate. 3) Drain torus (fluid coupling). Then remove 4 nuts at flexplate. Then remove transmission to bell housing bolts. Slide transmission back enough to clear the flexplate (and dowels) and lower transmission out. Not the easiest, but not the hardest.
I think he’s pulling the engine and leaving the trans in the car. A little more difficult and confusing. Fluid coupling, converter, understood, but precise terminology isn’t mandatory in this case, just so we all understand that it’s the big round thing trapped in the bellhousing. Obviously he doesn’t have a factory manual to refer to. My manual refers to the cast iron part of the bellhousing as the starter housing - but I think most of us think of it as a bellhousing. Sorry, six bolts, four bolts, (seemed like 6) I couldn’t remember and I didn’t feel like pulling the dust cover to check. He’s sharp, he’ll see what needs to be done when he pulls the dust cover. Just trying to be helpful, not perfect.
When I worked in the Sears Automotive Center in the 60’s they sold rebuilt engine from an authorized supplier. I never saw a trans removed. Only a couple of times did I see a hood removed. I remember GM’s BOP only having the starter ring gear left on the engines after being pulled. They had metal devices to hold up the front of the transmissions that had hooks and were hung from the firewall where the hood covered the lip. Time was $$$ and these guys had every trick to save time..
The body and chassis are completely separated so no issues with clearing fire wall or gaining access to the motor and transmission. I plan on leaving the transmission mounted and only remove the engine.
Then you can just pull the engine forward until the dowel pins and the converter (fluid coupling) disengage and leave the cast iron bellhousing bolted to the engine. Good luck. Those are great cars, I always wanted one, especially a ‘57 Safari wagon. In spite of what some say, those transmissions are nice too.
Alright. Engine is out! 6 bolts on the flywheel and it popped out. Now, how do I remove the flywheel? I've removed the 6 bolts but the flywheel is not coming off. Do I need a puller of some sort?
does the last statement above means you took the 6 bolts out and the starter ring gear plate is still stuck on the crank? Hit it with a rubber mallet or a regular hammer on a 2x4. It’s just stuck.
Hi All. Just a quick update. The motor is out and on the stand. Thank you for all of your advice. It really helped.
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