347 stroker 13:1 compression beast

Went through similar deal. Trunk mounted batteries need perfect ground to ch***is of the same or larger size cable. I would run ground directly back to battery.

Do voltage drop test and report back what voltage drop is through pos and neg cable from battery to stater lug and starter case for ground. You can use jumper cables to help with distance if you meter cables are short.

If you run 0 ground from the actual starter or as close as possible to the frame it should lessen the voltage drop dramatically.

Make sure you start with a freshly charged battery otherwise it is useless. I would also do it hot when you are having the issue as voltage drops when cables are hot. You have a voltage issue if it is clicking and not turning. The solenoid deal is related to GM cars not Fords. Ford's with the remote solenoid have a few more cable to do a voltage check on. You should also check across the solenoid.

A simple test would be to hook a volt meter to the starter pos lug and and the ground and see what the voltage is there when not starting. You will be shocked to see the 9 or so volts when attempting to crank. That is you issue no need to buy expensive parts just some basic testing.

Yellow Bullet has sticky in electrical section in regards to voltage drop test.

 

i have same problem with my 63 catalina i have a remote for starter an when engine is cranking i turn on ignition,it is the same remote when i am adjusting valves.
ken sweden

 

If the battery is in the trunk you can never have it grounded good enough! When it won't crank grab a good set of jumper cables and go from engine to frame or fire wall. move them around the car and engine and see what it does. On my car with a six point bar and battery in the trunk I had the battery grounded to the roll bar in the trunk area. I had the same problem until I went up front to the roll bar plate and ran a ground from there to the engine. Good luck, you'll figure it out soon enough.

 

Soon as you said trunk mounted battery I thought the same thing...ground. Heat soak is a funny thing... Next time it happens, run a good jumper cable from the starter housing to batt neg. and see if it helps.

Also, X2 on yanking the plugs. IF it won't turn with the holes open, you have a serious mechanical problem.

 

The sheer number of guys who have pointed at the grounds should give you pause. I've "been there, done that" on this deal. Plus, its easy to check, and you dont have to buy anything.

 

I always run two large size battery cables from the battery directly to the starter. One is the positive and the other is the ground cable. If you put the ground cable right on one of the starter mounting bolts you are ***ured of getting full power to the starter. If you run it to the frame, roll bar, or any other place like that you have no way of knowing how much drop you are going to have because those structures are not good conveyors of electricity. You will need to run a ground strap from the engine to the frame and/or body so lights and all that also have a good ground if you run the main ground to the starter first.

If you have a large enough battery, two large battery cables going right to the starter, and a good quality high hp starter, you can turn over a battleship...........unless, the engine is getting tight when it heats up. Being that you have run this combo for two years and it hasn't blown yet, I am leaning toward you not having something right in your starting/battery circuit.

Don

Don

 

You have something either expanding when tight or a bad starter.I ran a 347 for over 14 seasons with an actual 13.8 to 1 compression,never had a hard start issue.I use a Powermaster gear reduction mini starter,16 degrees initial,36 degrees total timing,two red top batteries,I also used the stock Ford solenoid.I think that you may have the piston clearances too tight.Can you turn the engine over by hand when it is hot? ROY.

 

You have a real issue if it won't turn over without the ignition on. Either a bad switch, bad ground or you are in the process of killing a motor. Rule out the starter unless your "new" starters were rebuilt or used when you put them on. How long has this been going on over the last 2 years of racing?

SPark

 

If pistons are to tight I would think he would have scarfed a cylinder wall by now.....................

 

The motor was professionally built, Im gonna get out and the garage today and do some tests. i will get back and tell you guys what I find out. I really appriciate all the feed back on this . Pretty embarrising going to the track and WAITING FOR YOUR CAR TO START... Thanks again Jeff

 

Heat soak on the starter it sounds like. Cables should be 1/0 for both pos and neg. If persist you may need to add the remote solenoid to avoid soaking. Sure sounds like this since you said even a mini starter wouldn't fit do to header issues.

 

In regards to a voltage drop test, it should be no more than 0.1 volt per connection. Start at the battery positive cable and go from connection-to-connection while someone hits the starter. Also I'd use an ****og meter on the lowest scale. Just easier to read while standing on your head.

 

Are you using a switched relay to your solenoid? Start ****on thru relay to solenoid? If so, those things can give you fits. All the above info is good. Grounds and volt drop tests. peace