Ok folks It appears i have a rear main seal leaking pretty bad. 59 elky with cast iron P G. Have any of you ever changed out rear seal while motor (348) still in car? Can it be done? It has A C, Power steering so engine comp is full Not to mention painted . I didn't build this motor, It wouldn't have rope type seal would it?
I'm not positive but you may not get the pan off without jacking up the motor quite a bit. First think I would do is get a Factory 59 Chevrolet service manual, they are indispensable when it comes to working on these things. The one listed here is a supplement. You may need both. Home / Automotive / CHEVROLET / BEL AIR / 1959 / 1959 Chevrolet Bel Air Service Manual Supplement 1959 Chevrolet Bel Air Service Manual Supplement $99.00 Original factory book including additional information not found in the Service Manual. Condition: Used Please call us toll free 866-586-0949 to get pricing on a brand new manual. 1959 Chevrolet Bel Air Service Manual Supplement quan***y This company has reproductions at 1/4th the price. But it says it used in conjunction with the 58 manual https://www.themotorbookstore.com/1959-1960-chevrolet-shop-manual.html Pat
Years ago I spent a considerable amount building a 348 that I initially used in a deuce display ch***is. I eventually built the car to a deuce roadster package car that was ready to paint and upholster. I sold this car to a builder in N.H. He then finished the car and sold it to a man in FL. Shortly after it was finished it developed a terminal rear main leak. It forced the pulling of the engine and it was discovered the crank had a scored journal where the seal ran. I stood the replacement crank, dis***embling and ***embling the motor & taking the motor out and back in. The machine shop that built the motor refused any responsibility. Lesson learned
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1959_60/index.htm lots of work, but no need to pull the engine. Felpro lists a rubber seal for it. The small blocks used a rope seal through the middle of 1959 production, so it's not surprising they figured out that the 348 needed a real seal. good luck
One thing I'll add to this procedure, is, after you've got the engine jacked up, find a couple of blocks of 2x4 (or similar) and place them between the motor mounts and the frame mounts then set the engine down on them. Also, on SBCs we used to pop the distributer cap loose so as to not crack it on the firewall.
Did one on a Ford FE. Found it was hard to get the crank to come down far enough to snake the upper half into the groove. Got a kit from KD Tools (used to be a board of these in most part stores) that included a "Chinese handcuff " puller made of wire mesh. That worked OK, but the seal was still hard to pull through the groove, ended up breaking the tool but got the job done. I would use a rubber seal as Squirrel suggests. The rope seal is larger in cross section and made to compress when installed. The rubber isn't as tight a fit and IMHO more effective and durable. I would guess the tool is still available but you might have to order because it's kinda ancient tech, like many of us on here. I would be concerned the wire of the above tool could damage a rubber seal. Don't know if anyone offers the "Chinese handcuff" in fabric but that would be preferable.
I just did this with a 327 in my 59 ElCamino, trying to fix an oil leak. 3 times I pulled the pan. I ended up having to use a cherry picker to remove the first pan, which was from a 65 Impala. You may have to drop the exhaust to get it high enough.
Having worked in dealership shops in the 60's &70's , I've replaced a few rear seals in car .both rope & rubber. Go slow , remove anything in the way . disconnecting the converter & loosening all the main caps will help . Having a convenient means of rotating the crank will help . There is a thin plastic installation seal guard that is indispensable , you can make one with a pair of scissors & some " blister pack" plastic . Generally , fan , exhaust , starter will need to come off . As mentioned , dist. Cap as well. Life will be less unpleasant if after removing the pan you let things sit & drip for a day or two , less oil dripping on you is a plus , eye protection !!!!!! There may be offset seal sets available . plugs out , remove fan belts will help .
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