I agree with Piat-n-Broke on the rear window configuration..... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Darn I need spell check Pist-N-Broke is what I meant to say Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Love it ! Keep up the good work . Much Easter to leave widow whole . I like to make my cuts about one inch off radius of opening , less warpage when welding so less hammering .
Thanks for the feedback. Pist n. Where you at? If nothing else the door surrounds would be great. As far as I can tell it's an early 35 so it has window garnish on the doors and I'm missing the pass side. I like the idea of cutting the window out. I originally wanted a 4" chop but didn't like how close the window frame gets to the belt line so this may free things up a bit. I was going to try and frame up the interior of the cab and chop it this weekend if time allows. The lay out takes so long, plus I sit and look at it a lot to make sure I'm not effing up. Thanks again everyone. Also pist n you can see how rusted my window is at the top. Finding a good replaced would be awesome.
Now that's funny, I read the first comment and didn't catch that it was spelled wrong. I guess one more Beer isn't necessary tonight. The Wizzard
I'm laying it out as if I'm going to remove the window then chop and see what I think. You have all given me plenty to consider. Thanks
So imagine cutting inside the tape "box" to remove the rear window and frame work then cutting the 3" out for the chop and re centering the window within that.
Your on the right page with the window opening. As I remember it there is some inner bracing around the window. Just be sure to leave enough material outside it to work both sides of your welds. After doing a 3" chop you may want to remove 1/2" or more to get that just right look that you want. The Wizzard
You're correct about the inner bracing. I'm taking it out, as long as I'm rebuilding all the rest in 1" square I'm going to replace it as well. I removed the 2 pieces of hat channel that went from the floor to the underside of the window and will replace them as well. Looking at the roof line above the window and the seam I'm a little concerned about adding too much of an upper flap and getting into it once I put the window back in. I'll start bracing the cab in the morning and see how far I get.
Such a nice truck. I like your OT engine choise, thats gonna be awesome. I like most of you choises But why the suicide front end on a truck, and with the dually rear, aint that odd/gonna clash? Is there any chance you got a picture of one that turned out good? I know people says this alot, but if this was mine, I would drop the truck axel, make the front fenders tug the front wheels. Smal chop, modest channel. Run fenders, grill and hood top, no sides. Two tone, homemade/shop paintjob. Like if it was your shop. Air bags so ypu can lower the rear to load the bed.
I suppose I should do a page 3 update. I ditched the suicide front end in favor of a 40 Ford axle with a split set of bones. I bought some perch pins from Chris here and am running it under a 2" drop Model A crossmember. Running 49 F2 spindles, plates and 8 lug drums with the same box and column. Building a 4x2 .120 wall box frame in a Model A fashioned set of front horns. No planning on a drop axle but am planning on a frame Z near the toe board of the cab. Step up the rear past the cab. I've got a 4 link system with pan hard bar, bag brackets and bags for the rear. Converting a later model Ford 8.8 rear to 8 lug as well. Cab has a 2" channel and I'm hoping to start the 3" chop after getting the kid from football practice here in a few. I need to keep the frame in the engine area a little more off the ground. That OT engine is 3' from valve covers to pan. Can't afford a 5spd so I got a TF727 made for that engine. Would love a 3 pedal car but it's not in the cards. No fenders, no hood, no side glass. I had a pretty solid plan. Budget and luck with parts do alter ideas but the foundation will remain the same.
So you keep the truck wheels? Nice call on the front end! I dont see why you would run a truck with out fenders, or are you turning it in to a more Pick up styled like truck-thing? But please, post more pictures, you might make a beliver out of me.
My plan is 16" steelies with a beauty ring. Still looking for 3 more early Budd rims. No center caps. Seems dumb to go through all this trouble to keep it "big" truck style and hide the hubs.
One more. I doubt it will be sans top today. Promised my daughter she could help but she said fishing is calling her name today. Can't deny a fishing trip.
You da man , not many would ditch hot rod work for fishin but good luck drowning shrimp I do it quita often myself.... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
This is looking pretty good so far. Something I've learned and can't explain. Maybe it's just me. When doing tin work like around your back window. If I make a 90 degree corner like you have in all 4 places I end up with a buckle that has to be shrunk to get flat. Now mind you, I make tight seams and Tig weld everything and metal finnish both sides. I've learned that if I make about a 1-1/2" radius I can sail around the corners and on down the seams with near zero distortion. Just food for thought seeing what you have in rough out. To bad your not running 17" wheels. I have a set of 4 looking for a new home. Today I should be able to hunt for the door pieces I mentioned. What I had there is not complete tops but some pieces of front and back top corners as I remember. It's been about 10 years since I bought the project Truck and the top skin and door parts were with it. None of them were used being I didn't chop it. The Wizzard
I'd like to run 17's but I think they're all split rims from that era. So do you radius the corners? Thank you for looking for the door tops, they would be a huge help. I'm headed out in a bit to get back on it. This will be back burnered for a week or two after today though. Sons Jeep needs some work. Stay tuned.
Ok, anxiety is gone. Pretty happy so far however I know the work has just begun. The A pillar needs to be trimmed, I may take even more out of the front for a slight rake. I have time to think about it now.
Your right, they are a split rim. Yes, if it were me I'd take the window section you removed and round all 4 corners of it. Once you have it clamped in place and like it I'd then scribe all the way around it and trim the back panel just to the line and weld it back in. I sent you a P.M. but not sure I did it right. The Wizzard
Split the roof yesterday and ran into trouble on the driver side. Had no idea it was going to come apart. Oh well. I'll trim up the A pillars and start figuring gap width. The roof sagged in the middle, I suspect it expanded and I'll need to suck it back together. Learn as I go. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I'm just gathering for a 35 build too, going after another load today. I'm also doing a stretch and I have 2 cabs, 4 doors to whittle up. I'll be watching your build. BTW, don't know how much snort you need but I helped a buddy do a 4BT in a 39 binder. His came from a Ford so already had the Ford adapter and I gave him a small block ZF 5 speed for it and it bolted right up. That worked really good and it ran like stink, pulled hard up over 100 mph. Just a turbo, no intercooler.
I wish I had an extra cab, it would help a lot but I think the door tops are where it would help the most. A small piece of door trim would go a long way in making the finish as nice as possible. I think I'm going to use part of the B pillar I removed to fill the gap in the roof, it will need to be edited but essentially I hope it works fine. When you get started send a PM and I'll follow. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I took a vacation day for tomorrow to keep up with the progress. I'll have the back all tacked on and window in place. Next I'll figure out how much A pillar to trim and start bridging them together. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The clamps are great. I use a 20% off coupon at HF and get them for about 6.50 per pack of 8. I suspect once I get to bridging the roof 16 may not be enough. I hope to get far enough along I know how wide of a piece I need tomorrow and get one sheered for my next bout of free time. On another note I'm struggling with my engine choice. One part of me loves the idea, one doesn't. I posted it on CL as a trade for a nail head/tranny combo. See what comes of it, it's a pretty specific trade. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I got a bunch of those clamps from Eastwood, on a 2 for 1 sale. They are one of the items that they put on sale all the time so check there too. A nailhead would be pretty cool for that truck. Have you thought about any other options though? I'd dig into CL in your surrounding areas and see what's there. You may be better off finding one and selling your current engine. A lot of folks don't get into the Wanted section.
The Jalopy Journal
