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Technical 35 steering column wiring

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by LQQKER, Dec 18, 2014.

  1. LQQKER
    Joined: Mar 22, 2010
    Posts: 84

    LQQKER
    Member

    I've learned much from this site as a lurker . My 35 five window is getting close to running. It's a 59AB motor backed up by a t5 and 10 bolt rear end. Dropped axle with disc brakes. The wiring is just a mess and I'm planning on using the stock steering column with the stock horn and light controls. The only electrical upgrades will be an alternator, turn signals, radio and maybe electric wipers. I want to rewire the entire car but not sure about what it would take to rewire the steering column. Does it need to be removed from the car , etc..... just basic sound advise from someone in the know. Any suggestions on wiring kit suppliers. It is 007.JPG 007.JPG 35 in progress 005.jpg set up as a 12 volt system and new gauges will be added also. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. No need to remove the column, the light switch unhooks from the bottom and can be replaced or repaired as needed.
     
  3. jseery
    Joined: Sep 4, 2013
    Posts: 743

    jseery
    Member
    from Wichita KS

    There is only one wire in the steering column, a ground wire for the horn. The wires that connect to the bottom of the steering box are the lighting control with is switched by a rod that runs up the column to the steering wheel. Shouldn't have to take any of the column apart, the light control switch is held on with a bail clip. If you are wanting stock style wiring there are several companies that specialize in them. I attached a few wiring diagrams, a 35, a couple of 36 and then a 56 & 57 truck. I find the F-100 truck diagrams useful because they are 12v neg ground systems. If you decide you want to wiring it a wire at a time I can probably help with some additional diagrams.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Yes, ignition switch is held on by 2 little screws right behind the lock! I think '35 uses the simple two pole switch, one pole to battery, other to coil. Repro's I have seen are crap, find NOS plastic plate and moving part or simply resurface what you have with a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface. You will probably laugh when you remove the 2 screws and see how simple the switch is...
    I would swap original resistor and fuse plate with one from about '40-46 with circuit breaker, and on the switch run a second wire from ignition to a relay to feed the accessory breaker.

    On the stock light/horn switch you need to have the rod from horn button perfectly straight so it doesn't try to turn with steering wheel. Repro contact plates (plastic disc with switch terminals and leads to lights) are again trouble, keep the original plate, remove the rotted wires, solder your new leads to original terminals. I like to wire them as 6V, as the extra size in wiring adds some safety factor and I think it sometimes adds a bit at the lights.
     
  5. jseery
    Joined: Sep 4, 2013
    Posts: 743

    jseery
    Member
    from Wichita KS

    I also attached a couple of photos of the light control switch harness and cover.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. LQQKER
    Joined: Mar 22, 2010
    Posts: 84

    LQQKER
    Member

    Thanks for all the feedback. Now I'm wishing I would have asked this question before putting the motor back in but...live and learn. Again thanks much.
     
  7. cshades
    Joined: Sep 2, 2011
    Posts: 588

    cshades
    Member
    from wi

    I would like to add a little to this. I did a 35 for a customer not to long ago including rewire on the whole car. I would sugest if you are running the stock headlight and ignition switch is to use the switchs to run relays that power the headlights and the rest. Especially if you are running halogen bulbs and adding anything else that runs from the ignition switch.
     

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