I have a 30 Av8 coupe and I am torn between wheel choices. I have some 35 wires and I was wondering what I will have to do to run them. I have a nine inch rear and a straight axle with F1 brakes in the front. What are the pros and cons of running wires? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I had a set on my 29 Pk Up. They were powder coated and I ran 16" tubeless radials. Never had a problem until I was in a rain swept road and she went into a spin on a tight curve. Both tires on the p*** side walked off the bead, lost control and hit a short wall, bent the frame and put the old girl out of commission. Iceman
Do a search. Some guys say you need to run an adapter to center the wheel where they orginally rode. Newer brakes (post 1935) don't have the lip for them to ride on and thus the lug area takes the brunt of the force which they were not designed for. Others have been running them for years without the adapter without issues. You'll have to read up and decide for yourself.
With a 9 inch ford you need to run an 1 1/4 thick 5.5 to 4.5 spacer/ adapter. Then you need to get the wire wheel centering adapters from Tardel or Speedway.
I have never had a problem with mine like mentioned above. 5 years on my 35 wires and I have put them through the ringer! Rings for the front and adapters for the rear. It all works but what era are you shooting for? Thirties, early 40's? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Contact these guys, they'll hook you up:http://www.rallyamerica.com/Adapters.html You'll need the adapters (at the bottom of that link) for the rear, and support "rings" for the fronts. Easy peasy.
You probably need adapters for the fronts as well. i don't think the drums have enough offset to clear.
Thanks for the help. I'm not really shooting for any certain era. The newest thing on it is the 58 rear end. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I have the same setup on my T: 35 wires, 5x5.5" 9" rear, and 53-56 F100 drums on the front. I needed wheel spacers and support rings on all four corners. You can get the spacers and support rings integrated in one adapter from the link above.
You were asking a lot from not much. The safety rim wasn't even available until Chrysler starting using them in about 1939-40. Add that to a tubeless tire and a radial on top of that and you know how that turned out. Everyone runs out of luck sometime.
Pros : Wires look awesome, consider the Model A wires they are cool. Cons: what these guys ^^^^ said, get the adapters.
The other alternative is to get a set of old steel rims of your choice for both front and rear that you know will work. Then machine the centers out of them and weld them into the centers of the 35 wires. Obviously, you also cut/machine out the same center size from the 35 wires before welding in the new pieces. If a little thought is given to this method you can also in most cases obtain the offset you need as well. Finally, if this proposition did not scare you, save your 35 wires and get a cheaper set of 17" or similar wire wheels and cut the spokes, get a newer 16" safety bead rim (remove the band) and weld all the spokes back onto the newer band. Again there is room to move with offset etc. Not a simple task for the faint hearted and a jig is recommended, but once you are setup for one wheel you can re-do this process over and over. In summary, you end up with the modern safety bead band in the width of your choice still at 16" and a modern wheel pattern center also of your choice and chosen offset which can clear disc brake calipers should you so choose to run them. What more could you ask for and if it is possible to do your own work then the cost of some wheels is pretty darn cheap for what you will end up with.
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