350 Chevy Fuel Pump Question

I am looking at 350 Chevy Engine for a street rod. It is suppose to be from an 88 Suburban. It does not look to me like a mechanical fuel pump would work, but let me know from the experts. There is a plate over where a mechanical pump would fit, but does not look like the casting would allow for the mechanical style?? If the mechanical would not work, what is a economical alternate fuel pump for this engine?

Thanks

 

electric

 

I helped a friend with a 88 350 in his 34 Ford ... and after we removed the block off plate ... everything bolted up just like a early 60's SBC. You need a fuel pump, the adapter plate and a fuel pump push rod ... done deal

 

I had a 1988 305 with throttle body F.I. and like you said the boss was there, but it was not drilled or tapped . The Fuel pump rod hole was not drilled. Best bet would be an electric fuel pump. You could pass on the 88 F.I. engine and look for a older one.

 

Some time after the 88 or 89 models ... Chevrolet quit casting the mounting pad on the blocks ...

 

I realize electric is the option to the mechanical. It appears there is conflicting information if behind the cover plate is open and adaptable for mechanical or not. Sounds like some are open and will accept the rod and mechanical pump and some will not. I should have taken the cover plate off and looked while I was there. The application would be using a stock style 48 Chevy pickup gas tank. If I had to go electric, what is the most economical electric pump setup? THanks

 

Maybe the difference in a 305 block and a 350 block.
Also, you know that engines came from a few different machining places back then.

Just pull the block off plate and look see ...

 

If the electric fuel pump is the only option, is there anything economical than a $250 setup for the suburban replacement??. This would be for a 48 Chevy pickup application. If its going to be $250 on top of the engine price, I will probably look for an older engine.

 

If you want the efi, the pumps are high priced, but with a carb, they are about $20.

If it was drilled for a cover plate, it is probably ready to bolt on a mechanical pump. The blocks not drilled for the pump rod were not drilled for a cover either. No need to cover a hole that wasn't there.

 

junk yard anyone????? 5$ pump and some fuel line, mount it along the frame rail, or remover the block off and spend the 20 bucks to go mech. .....just my /02

 

I would just run the electric.

Primes the carb fast when parked for long periods.

I have worn a battery down trying to start cars that have been parked for a while with the mech. pumps.

You know if it works or not just from sound.

More pressure to carb for pedal mashing.

Just may have to run a regulator.

 

Remember to wire the electric pump to NOT always be hot, or you'll regret it later...

 

If it is a looks thing then mount the electric out of site, take an old mech pump apart take all the guts out so the fuel will travel freely through. Run the fuel lines to the now non functioning mech pump. Looking at it most people won’t be able to tell you are running the electric.

 

That doesn't make much sense. And serves no purpose at all. It also would fill the engine with gas in about 30 seconds with the flow of an efi pump. Also some of the in tank fuel pumps rely on the fuel in the tank to cool them.

We are all assuming that Buildinga55 is going to run a carb on the 88 engine after removing the efi.

Buildinga55 if you are going to do that (remove the efi and install a carb) there are plenty of electric pumps that handle it on a street setup for under 75.00.

If you are going to run the efi one thought and probably the best one is to see if the Suburban tank will fit under the back of the 55. That would get the stock tank and 16 gallons of gas out of the cab and away from you and yours.
it would allow you to have the stock 88 fuel pump and more fuel capacity.
Otherwise if you intend to run the stock 55 tank with the efi there are aftermarket external electric pumps available for efi units with the correct pressure and flow for those units. Summit shows a ton of different electric pumps or your local "real" parts house should be able to find what you need.

 

Wire the electric pump up with a relay thats wired to an oil pressure switch. If you get in a wreck and cant turn off the ignition the pump wont keep feeding a fire.

 

Sorry I forgot to state the obvious for the few. You have too remove the arm (guts) and run a block off plate, and seal it. I have done this on a few cars with no problem. Also run a pressure regulator, and a great idea is as Lobucord stated.

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Keep in mind early Chevy fuel lines were only 1/4 inch to supply engines that were below 100 hp. It may have a problem keeping up with 350 cubic inches especially if your engine is hopped up.

 

I should have been more clear. Yes my thought is to put a carb system on the engine. I would just prefer to us a mechanical if the block would allow. It has nothing to do with looks or anything. I am familar with the mechanical type, nothing fancy, no wiring etc. I will need to run a new line to the newly cleaned original style tank. Not sure about the sending unit or any of that just yet, will have to do some more research. If I end up with this engine I will need an intake and carb for the setup. Any suggestions? I was looking at the Edelbrock setup but maybe I can find something used. Thanks

 

Another thing on the Throttle body engines is the 4 middle intake manifold bolts are drilled at a differnt angle than the earler engines. Some guys enlongate the bolt holes on Aluminum 4 BBL. Intakes to fit the TBI Heads.
Milling would be better.

 

I am in the process of doing the same thing. A 85 TBI. Removed the aluminum intake and replaced with cast carb. intake. Hogged out the 4 inside holes. Just used a drill and kept working it and checking fit. If u go this way be sur to put some xtra sealant around these holes.
I got a NAPA electric pump with filter and mounted it on the frame rail at the coupling in the fuel line. Not a real expensive thing.The kit comes with various sized plastic in out fittingsand uses screw clamps and comes with a mounting bracket and u can get it 7-9 lbs. which is to much pressure . I had to add a pressure regulator ,4-9 lbs.
A better bet I read on another forum was a similar pump availble at AZ with a pressure of 1-4 lbs.
U want to run a filter at the carb to and don't use teflon tape on the fittings as it is supposed to get dissolved and into the gas.
This is a lot of work and if your block has the ability to have a mech pump I would do that.
When u get the plate cover off make sure there is a lobe on the cam to run the pump!!!

 

If you can use a mechanical pump by all means use it, rock solid dependable vs problems.

 

I know they were 5/16" from '29 all the way to '59, plenty big enough to run any motor. I've never had a Chevy newer than '59, but If they went down to 1/4", when was that?

 

Hmmmm! Before I did a restoration and repaint on my tank in my 54 last year I did some research to see how much a re-pop would cost and ran across the 1/4 inch reference in an article on the same subject. I didn't actually measure the i.d. of my line. Perhaps I stand corrected.