They're all on the internet. What are your specific numbers? https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=708c...tYWxsLWJsb2NrLWNoZXZ5LWVuZ2luZS1jb2RlLw&ntb=1 https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=17e8...tZW5naW5lLXNlcmlhbC1udW1iZXItbG9va3VwLw&ntb=1 https://m.roadkillcustoms.com/ https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=590c...6Ly93d3cubW9ydGVjLmNvbS9jYXN0bnVtLmh0bQ&ntb=1 https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=f233...XN0eXoyOC5jb20vc2JjaGV2eS9zYmxvY2sucGhw&ntb=1
First step is to figure out if it's a Chevy 350, or some other brand. If it's a Chevy, then look on the back for the block casting number and casting date. Then look on the top of the front pass side deck surface, in front of the cylinder head, for the engine number and the partial VIN (if it has one). Then post all the numbers, pictures of them if possible, and we'll help you figure it out. In the end, it probably won't make much difference what the numbers are, except to give you the year range that it was made...as the numbers don't really mean much when you're building a hot rod. Knowing about when it was made, will give you an idea what parts it might have inside, and more importantly what parts will work with it, as there were some design changes over the decades.
When I was a young kid, my Dad said that 350s were not any good. What you need is a 327, that is what he taught me. . Also, I read on the inter-web all the time, that ALL them there, small block Chevy engines are Corvette engines.
take a picture of the numbers, because it's easy to misread them...also it's hard to tell if it's an original stamp from what you posted, but looking at a picture, I could tell immediately. The engine number would be a letter (T, F, V, or M) followed by 4 numbers and two or three letters (possibly one of these would be a number). What you posted does not match that format.
VR Comes out as a 69 Chevy 3/4 or 1 ton with a 3 speed stick. If the block is in good shape it's a good one to use as the base of a gen 1 small block 350 based build.
yeah, but.... I have a 396 that has an engine code ending in IVR, and the suffix is IV, and the R means it came with a Rochester carb. We need a picture.
Oh...also, that casting number 10066036 is for a mexican replacement block, which was never installed originally in a car, so the engine number is going to be weird. The M is a sign of that. Also look for HECHO EN MEXICO cast into the block on the back.
Well, to simplify things, as mentioned before, it doesn’t matter what it came from. Unless you need to do a “number match” thing. Best question I can think of, is it a runner as is, or in need of going through? If it’s a runner, then I can see wanting to know what to expect from it, but if it needs to be gone through, makes no difference.
You would have to visit my Henry J thread to read the story of my woes lol I don't want to hijack this thread
1M0125 1VR Made in Mexico on January 25th, unknown year If you want to know how old it is, you'll need to find the casting date code either on the back of the block (usually hard to see when it's in a car), or maybe on one of the heads, hiding under the valve cover. I don't know of any lists of suffix codes for the replacement engines, unfortunately.
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