Is there anyone here that has put a 351 cleavland in there 55-56? Reason i'm asking is i have one with 6000 miles on it and thinking about it instead of a 302. Same motor mounts so that should be easy. I know it wider, heavier, ****s a lot of fuel but contemplating it. Exhaust would be a problem but i can build my own and i'm thinking of going rack and pinion as well which would free up some space. I've read the sticky and great info in there but i haven'e seen any cleavland builds yet.
Check out this video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hemz-hMja6M Looks like a good fit with headers clearing the steering.See this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/69-70-musta...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35d4032d02&vxp=mtr There was an old article in Club Hot Rod.com about this swap you may have to shorten the collector length or alter the cross member where the exhaust goes through,you won't need a rack and pinion swap the Cleveland head exhaust ports sit a little higher than a Windsor so you actually gain steering box clearance,you might have to play the video a couple times to see it.
Thanks i'll try to find the article. I have the headers for the motor. The motor came out of a 67 mustang so i'm hoping i can use them with some mods. Cleavland was a tight fit in the stang and i'm sure the headers hug everything as it's probably a smaller engine compartment than the 56. I wonder if the stock rear is strong enough for it. I don't plan on smokey burn outs. Just cruising,
In the video it looks like the p***enger side header is a shorty style. I'm in the planning stages of a 351C and AOD swap for my '55. And to answer your question about the stock rear being strong enough, I'd say yes as long as you don't beat on it.
Look closely at the video and you can see the p***enger side reducer and flange is just behind the cylinder head next to the firewall, its a very short header. I'm near certain its these; http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Rat-Str...Parts_Accessories&hash=item461941753e&vxp=mtr
Talk about timing! Next post down: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?do=discuss&discussionid=43500 Check out the pictures,351C in a '56 seller will email extra pictures by request. Might be cool to cruise with the ghost of Elvis
I had a Cleveland/C6 combo out of a Mustang in a 55 Club Sedan when I was young. Cut off factory Y-Block pads from the tube crossmember, weld flat steel between the tube and the frame on each side, then the Mustang rubber insulators will sit down flat. Stock trans mount on the C6 works fine. Maybe a bit of relocation of the bolt on trans crossmember, but not much. If using stock Mustang exhaust manifolds, trim about 1/4" off the flange around the shock towers to give the exhaust a bit more clearance. Even then, if you develop a miss, the exhaust might hit hit the crossmember a bit. Use a 6 cyl front splash pan for clearance for the radiator. Mount the radiator in the 6 cylinder location using 6 cylinder brackets and it'll nicely clear the longer water pump, and you're done, other than driveshaft and linkage. It's a seriously simple install. The ONLY problem I had in 10 years of beating on it was I tore two factor diffs out and broke an axle on a third before I wised up and dropped in a 9" from a 57.
I had an Oz 58 Customline with a 351 Cleveland and Fmx fitted. It fit in there like it was meant to be there. To mount the engine made a plate with two bolts out of 2"x3/8" plate with a piece of 3/8" steam pipe welded across the plate. This then allowed the engine to bolt up to the original mounting points using the Cleveland engine mounts. The Fmx bolted up to the original rear cross member though I had to drill two holes closer to the front edge of the crossmember. I used the standard exhaust manifolds as it was a tight fit against the steering box (right hand drive). You can use either the 4v or 2v manifolds - the Oz 2v fit real neat with no clearance issues - the 4v cleared the vsyeering box by about 3/8". I couldn't use the original kickdown linkage from the engine gearbox. Also had to remove the neutral switch as it fouled the floor. Use the standard 55 neutral switch to overcome this. The gearbox changed fine and kicked down as it used a vacuum modulator on the back of the box. I also had a 302 Cleveland c4 combination in the same car at one time. This combo fit much better due to the smaller size of the gearbox, but needed a 4"x3/8" plate bolted to the gearbox mount to align with the rear transmission mount. You will need to get a longer tail shaft for the conversion. The clevo fills the engine bay much better than the smaller Windsor engine. A really simple swap. I can post some pictures if you would like.
And yes you need to consider a diff swap. You will snap axles or blow diff centres as it will rev harder faster than a y block. I used to pull an 18 foot caravan with the car and it hardly new it was there.
Rick I'd like to see a few pictures of the engine mounts. Do you think you can mail me a few 302 Cleveland heads?
My old 55 id long gone, but like was stated above, it was like it was meant to be there. I barely recall a tight squeeze against the steering box, but it rings a bell. I don't even recall a linkage issue withe factory Autolite 4bbl. But honestly, I could be wrong there. One thing on my bucket list is to remake that car with a 2dr Club Sedan
The issue with the Cleveland is that it is tight up against the firewall. I didn't want to hack or modify the body in case I ever wanted to swap a y block back in. I don't have a picture of the mount at the moment but I will draw something up today and post it. I wouldn't advise hacking anything as it will detract from its saleability at a later time. I actually have a couple of Oz Cleveland heads 2v open chamber but I will need something near and dear to cover postage.
If you look closely below the front of the exhaust manifold you can actually see the adaptor plate to which the standard Cleveland engine mounts is bolted. It is the grey coloured plate that is visible. This mounting method even allows the use of the standard oil filter which fits in neatly under the top control arm mounting point and is still accessible for oil change.
Here's what I did: Use a 6 cylinder front splash pan. Then you can move the stock radiator forward about 6" or so. Just mount the radiator on the front side of the supports, or flip the brackets if you prefer. That gives you all kinds of clearance against the firewall.
On North American cars, that area in front of the radiator is cut out. By using the 6 cyl parts, you can move the radiator ahead into that spot.. Instant space, and it's factory.
Great stuff guys. I'm going to have a good look at this swap. The 351 i have is a 2 v head motor with a mild cam. Good to know the stock exhaust might be the wayt to go to.Thanks guys, any tips n pics are appreciated.
Y-blokkah the area in front of our cars is cut as well, but I put a plate across the front so air could not go over the top of the radiator. All air through the front effectively went through the radiator. I battled overheating problem for a couple of years with this car. Used a standard rad frame fitted with bigger rad core, thermo fan in front of radiator and multiblade fan fitted to engine. I blamed mist of the heat on the fact that a Cleveland thermostat was 180 degree and they like to run warm. Turned out the temperature gauge, a Stewart Warner mechanical gauge read 35 degrees hotter than actual. I have never liked the fixture that ford fitted from the factory that sat against the radiator support and sealed to the bonnet - makes it hard to get to the engine for any reason. My setup was close but it worked real well with no mods to body or rad surround. It,to me, looked factory although I never was one to dress up engines.
The 55 and 56 Meteor Rideau Crowns and hardtops have got to be the best looking models of any full size Ford in 55 or 56.
Well I got the car home yesterday and guess what. I think it already has a 9 in rear in it. But the carrier is missing, lol. Never noticed that of all things since I was mainlining on the body. So I'm thinking it's out of a 57 ford which was popular back in the day. Judging by the size of the axles and housing ,I'm sure it's a 9 inch. Looks like a chevy motor was in there at one time. So the cleavland swap is looking more attractive right now.
It certainly looks like there is more room with the six cylinder radiator setup. We never got the sixes in Oz. Moving the engine forward will allow the kickdown linkage to work without hacking the firewall, but will require mod's as suggested with the engine mounts.
Then cut the splash pan to allow the radiator to fit. Move the radiator to the front of the supports, and ****, instant clearance.
I've been scouring the net looking for a pic of a stock rear axle ***y and can't come up with much. Since the pumpkin is missing it's hard to tell if it is a nine inch. Does a stock rear look like a 9 inch? What are identifing traits of a stocker.
I've been studying these pics closely and it sure preping me before i actually get into it. My rad support and side sheetmetal are missing so i'm hunting for 6 cyl. stuff. Great tip. I scored a c-6 and was wondering who's using one. Looks like a tight fit and i really don't want to cut the floor pan.
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