351C in 1946 Ford Coupe Lets consider this the build thread

I believe mine is a c4.

 

Right now I have the trans and motor sitting in the chasis. It will work with some slight mods to the cross member. The C4 is much shorter and not quite as wide. I dont see any reason to have to mod the cross member to fit that combo. I want to stick with the C6 only for the reason they have a good reputation for being bullet proof and I had one in my 66 thunderbird restomod and it took a beating with no issues.

 

So the original pictures of the car sitting with whitewalls with the front clip on was how it sat with the original suspension/rear end in it minus springs. looked cool but it wouldnt get too far like that. These two are how it sits now with the triangulated four link in rear with the fatman kit up front. Fenders and body where placed back on to confirm that all my measuring paid off and that the wheels where in the location I wanted them. I think it sits great. Some have told me it should lay frame but I think the end result would sacrifice handling. I plan on driving this thing through twisties and hauling ass so.... this is how it stays.

 

Now as some of you know Im working on stuffing this 351C and C6 trans combo in. While I have thought of switching to a top loader 4spd or a c4 (both much smaller in size and easier to fit) I am determined to make this work. I also want to keep the stock cross member simply because I love it. Sure making a tube one would be easier in the long run, and who cares no one would see it.. its just not what I want. So with it resting in place I now have to work on creating a bit more space for the transmission with the hopes of getting the motor back a couple more inches to make room for the rad and fan.

 

Hey dirty, The car looks great, you did a good job with the stance...keep it up!

 

I just posted some pics of my 46. look in my profile pics under " 46 engine install details"
I didnt want to clutter up your build post with all my pics.

The steering column and box are close, but they do not hit. I have some stick on heat shield covering the parts next to the exhaust manifold.

This was already installed when I purchased the car. Its not the neatest job, but its great as a cruiser for a teenager.

I did install the steering box, and used a ford truck steering column.

 

Thanks for the pics!! They confirm that Im on the right path. My C6 takes up a bit more realstate and I will have to notch out the cross member to give it some clearance around the edge where the pan meets the transmission but not a big deal. By removing the A/C three rib pulley and replacing it with a two rib and running a pusher type fan in front of the rad. Ill be good. Ill swap the pulleys for a high flow type waterpump pulley to give it better cooling.

I ended up notching the fatman front crossmember by 2.5" x10" across and boxing it in to get the motor down that much more. With the rear sump conversion that brings up the pan 2". Whole lot of work for 4" let me tell you. That cross brace was thick! The motor will sit at the desired 3 degrees.

 

I would make an effort to use a mechanical fan and shroud. I know there are tons of electric fans out there doing fine, But I have better luck the old fashion way. Its just one less thing to go wrong out on the road.

 

Dirty Bird,
Snow White in CA makes a water pump conversion that is 2"+ shorter so you can run a mechanical fan. I have a Model A coupe with a 351 Cleveland and have successfully used one of these pumps. I have many parts, heads & engine available if you need something.
Let me know.
Very cool project you have, keep up the good work !!!
Thanks, Jay

 

Sweet Jay thanks for the heads up. I agree if I can Id much rather go the mechanical route rather than an electrical pusher. Ill check that out.

 

Mine fit fine with a stock water pump. Im not really sure what radiator I have.

 

yup thats 10 pounds in a 5 pound bag

 

hey birdy,
I agree with going the mechanical route with the fan, I'm planning on doing the same...